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Since the fence is decorative it's probably close to a power source... is that correct? Just thinking about power, whether you can plug directly into 110v or 220v, or if you'll need an extension cord. I've read here on the forum about the IMIG 200 working well on 110v at the end of a fairly long extension cord, too.
We run our IMIG200 on a generator all the time, so we can be mobile and still get the 220vac.
I didn't want to set off another generator thread!Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
But as long as you bring it up... I was looking into a "Champion" generator the other day, mainly to have one for the house in case of power failures but also one that could drive the welder. Couldn't find anything about Total Harmonic Distortion on the website or the manual so I finally called their Tech Support. The answer came back: THD is "less than 25%". So I'm still shopping.
The fence is at the back of the property so the nearest power (only a 20A 115V) outlet is about 35' from the fence. Given the thickness of the tubing I suspect this outlet will be sufficient for the job. ??? I also have a 25' 8 gauge extension cord which I would have to make an adapter for.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO
I need to replace multiple pieces of the fence but we don't have any wind (in the morning) here so I think non-flux wire with C25 would work. I might pick up a small bottle (~40 Cu-ft) rather than transport a bottle. That said, I think I'll try some flux core 0.030 wire to see how if works. Just a newbie here trying to get my welding seat time up. :cool:
cheers
JohnG
Making a pigtail is a good investment especially since you already have a nice 25' 8 gauge extension cord. You'll probably use it a few times more in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnymg
I'd just use a regular 12ga extension cord for 110v. I got a two pack of 50 footers at costco for $30.
What was the final decision?
I've tried the "outdoor MIG" idea. On a day with absolutely no wind and some clean metal, there's a chance it will work. In general, though, it's easier to put socks on a rooster than it is to use MIG outdoors for any period of time.
If the metal is clean enough for MIG, then 6013 on stuff that thin is a good choice. Since it won't be clean, though, 6011 works well. If you haven't used 6011 on 14 - 18 ga stuff, you'll want to practice.
All that said, it's hard to beat flux core in your scenario.
I won't be back to the gate repair until a week from now. I did receive the flux cored wire so I'm going to test this wire in the next few day.Quote:
Originally Posted by jameslo
OK, I tried the flux core wire and did NOT like the results. Using INETUB BA71TGS .030-Inch wire I was getting a LOT of spatter/bebe's. I tried from 16.5-19volts and wire feeds from low-high. I also tried low-high arc force and even tried it with C25 gas. The actual welds looked OK but the amount of spatter was modest to excessive. Wind was not a factor.
Unless someone come up with a good tip I'm leaning toward just transporting the C25 bottle to the work site. This wasn't my preferred option but I don't want to end up with a spatter covered work piece. ???
regards
JohnG
Make sure you are using the correct polarity. MOST fluc core you will run with DC neg. And yes, it's a nasty amount of spatter compared to MIG.
OH MY>>>>>>>>> :OQuote:
Originally Posted by performance
I am such a NOOB!
thanks Mark
JohnG
I'm not sure I agree with those who suggest that stick is viable for this job. I guess it depends on just how thin-walled the tubing is. All the fencing I have seen is thin enough tubing that I personally wouldn't want to stick-weld it. And, yeah, 1/16" electrodes do exist, but they're wiggly like spaghetti, and it's darn hard to actually use them. You've got a wire-feed welder. I say use it!
DCEN for that brand, and you should use knurled drive rolls for flux core.
But I still think you will be happier with solid wire and C25. That refrigerator box was a neat trick. A tarp hung over something is often all it takes to keep the wind at bay.
Actually 3/32 6013 works really well on that stuff. 6013 is a light penetrating rod - made to order. I've done more thin wall sq tubing (14 - 18 ga) than I'd like to remember with 3/32" 6013 and 6011.Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuab
Just takes practice. Not a bad skill to have.
DCEN works pretty good actually. Only a very light amount of 'spatter' which brushes off easily. NOT as clean as C25 and solid wire by any means, but "good enough" for Gov work. Also, this flux core wire seems to 'burn through' mill scale with ease so I suspect/hope it will be good for my semi dirty/rusty fence repair.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Oh, the smooth rollers seem to work OK with this wire.
regards
JohnG
Well, I don't doubt you there. Stick welding on 14-18 gauge is pretty impressive to me. I daresay that's about the limit of what most people could do with stick, especially 3/32".Quote:
Originally Posted by jameslo
Ya must've missed post #15.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnymg
If you have any problems with the wire getting jammed in the tip just go up to the next size tip and it'll work fine.
Thanks for both suggestions.............. even if I was asleep at the wheel on the first one.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
What is the mechanism for the wire getting jammed in the tip? That did happen a few times today after switching to DCEN.
thanks again
JohnG
The wire preheats from the length of stickout. The flux can expand and swell the wire causing jamming from excessive stickout. Too short won't get the flux preheated enough.
Check this out for examples of too much and too little of just about everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD7Y57gK3yU
Man, that's a really good vid. I think I did just about every one of those "wrong" techniques. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
cheers
JohnG