Printable View
So happens i was working on a fence bracket for a machine in the wood shop and was adding a 3/8" flat to a piece of 3/8" x 3" flat bar. 200DX was flawless heated up quick made short work of the weld. 160 amps 15cf gas 1/8" 4043 filler. Maybe Mark or someone can shed some light on the thickness rating. But as far as i am concerned for what i am doing it will be just fine on 3/8"
Attachment 8714.
If your even thinking 1/2" aluminum, I would go for the 250EX.
I was only thinking 1/8" and thinner material and settled on the 200DX because it had some features that I wanted that would work with thinner stuff like pulse, it just so happen I wanted to make some slightly heavy tooling stuff and did some 1/4" plates and machine did excellent.
Yeah its not bad on 3/8 , surprised you only need 160A (maybe because your close to the edge?) I was at 200A and I thought my fingers were going to melt. But once the aluminum got warmed up, finishing up the welds on 3/8 is pretty easy.
I don't know how long we can run a bead at full 200A before the machine thermals (overheat)? Also is it bad to thermal the machine?
I also wonder if there is a benefit of using 1/8 tungsten from 3/32?
200amps is 60% duty cycle, thermal overload is bad. Preheat a little with a torch for the thick stuff, not a big deal; Prop with a piece of wood, a TIG finger or some other insulator and go to work. I like to prop up a large work piece on an insulating material(I've got some asbestos bricks, shh, don't tell anyone), so there's less heat loss via metal to metal contact and ground directly using copper cable instead of the table. S/F.....Ken M
I'm looking at some heavy castings that need repair, I'm just planning to bake them before welding, partly to drive out any oils, but also to get a nice even preheat. Preheat helps expand the range of your welder (I have a 200DX as well) and makes welding a bit easier and runs lower amperages. You can go a step further for heavy AL and stack your deck, as it were, by running a higher He to Ar ratio. The helium will give you the same effect as a bigger welder and more amps, with quite a few benefits as well.
Not bad, but this is likely what what "did in" your WP17. The thickness of the materials being welded is one important factor for how much power you'll need to weld them; but other important factors (not so easy to describe in a welding machine's specifications) are the overall size and mass of the weldment, and where on it it's being welded. These important factors affect how quickly the heat that is input by the welding arc is being dissipated.Quote:
Originally Posted by cbmkr
You should upgrade to a CK Trimline 210 with superflex cable if you're going to be welding any more of that kind of thickness aluminum. It looks like you already figured out to minimize for your machine (down to 30% EP) your A/C balance setting, but if not, that may allow you to eek out a bit more metal melting power yet from your setup.
If you continue to weld with your WP17, you should drape the power cable over your shoulder, and stop welding when you feel it getting warm.
I have been using the new style 26 torch that came with the machine after we found the problem with the 17, I also just finished repairing the WP-17 Euro style torch this morning and have tested it and set it on the shelf for emergency use only.
Thanks for correction I guess I should have said in general the new style weld work different then old ones with Tig gases and Mig gases.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance