The roll is actually 44 lbs.
What most people don't know is that frequently the price that they are quoted on other wire, while the same diameter roll, is only 30 lbs. But when you get 14 MORE pounds on a roll, the price goes up.
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The roll is actually 44 lbs.
What most people don't know is that frequently the price that they are quoted on other wire, while the same diameter roll, is only 30 lbs. But when you get 14 MORE pounds on a roll, the price goes up.
I bought a roll from the ebay guy... says 40 lb 18kg on the box. The lws said the same, 40 lb. Attachment 7433Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
It's a high price but I gotta see for myself how it does.
I hope that wire isn't rusty. The box is suspect.
The wire I use is copper coated... Or it looks that way... I was told it was to keep it from rusting. I know raw steel will rust in seconds in a humid environment. I live in a humid area and never had a problem with rusty wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Isn't all MIG wire coated like that???
http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/f...od_1250_er70s6Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
The cheap stuff usually is. Copper is used as a substitute deoxidizer, but it also can add impurity to the weld. Plus you end up with the problem of the copper flaking and packing your gun liner and can cause drive roll issues long term.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
Edit: Lookie what I just found:
Things that make you go hmmm. That OK 12.50 sounds better by the moment, doesn't it? You won't find a cheap copper wire that isn't coated, or at least I haven't seen it. The national standard wire that I talked about isn't coated either.
http://www.esabna.com/ca/en/Products/OK-Autrod-1250.cfm
very cool videoQuote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
I notice that stuff it blue... I don't see where it says if it is coated... Maybe not??? Looks like a lot better wire. But for the long term between uses is there is a rust or corrosion problem sounds like not for me. Sometimes I can go for several rolls a year and other times a roll can last several years. With the humidity here I can see surface rust forming on tools if I leave the garage door open on a damp day.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Brian, it is not coated with copper, but that does not mean it will rust any faster than copper coated wire. I've had copper wire rust on me faster than this stuff. Copper wire will rust. As far as not using it, and the wire rusting, IF a wire does oxidize, it is usually only the top layer of wire, and once that is removed, the wire beneath is just fine, if it is on a closed spool. I live in S. GA, 2 hours from the gulf, and 2 hours from the Atlantic. It doesn't get much more humid, with summer averages around 80-90% humidity.
Mark... Thanks for the info... Learning all the time. Will have to cut off a few pieces of wire and see how they hold up to rusting. Looks like the Esab wire is protected/sealed somehow.
The ebay guy still hasn't shipped. I asked him to put a hard backer on each side of the spool in hopes of avoiding shipping damage.
i keep my mig wire from rusting is i spray anti spatter spray on my wire spools i store . . when i get done welding i open my side cover and spray the outside of spool with anti spatter spray works good
Isn't anti-spatter spray just soapy water ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
Attachment 7436No its can be silicone or DICHLOROMETHANE . the good anti spatter spray is made with DICHLOROMETHANE methylene chloride i use this spray works awesome for keep mig tip clean
I've got a can of hobart brand... looks like windex to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
Edit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane :O Looks like some nasty stuff.
I have used the Hobart don't work very well cant even find a MSDS for it so is probably Windex lol check out msds on what is used for food prossessing they use lye and other bad stuff
The anti spatter the guys use at work is some sort of fish oil base I believe. Smells like Long John Silvers when it is being used. Not sure of the brand but it is a red and silver can.
Another take on the oil based products.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ng-tip-20.html
The only problem with that is that it will cause impurities and porosity in your weld. When that stuff is heated up it goes to gas, and when it does it creates air bubbles beneath the surface of the weld. Only a little should be used inside the gun nozzle and non weld areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop