Also check to make sure the blade is rotating with the teeth in the right direction :D (Not pointing fingers anywhere other than one of the knuckleheads here at the shop that ruined a $200 blade in minutes the other day).
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Also check to make sure the blade is rotating with the teeth in the right direction :D (Not pointing fingers anywhere other than one of the knuckleheads here at the shop that ruined a $200 blade in minutes the other day).
true, that's a common mistake that can elude at first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injected65
ken
Wow, even with some of my less genetically gifted crew, it'd be obtain a new one or get your walking papers for something that dumb. S/F.....Ken MQuote:
Originally Posted by Injected65
I was thinking the same thing. If other materials are cutting well you may have some really tough stainless. I have had a few pieces that were really tough to go through.Quote:
Originally Posted by CGCINC
went down to my friend Dennis at his welding shop he works with stainless a lot . he told me he uses a M42 dieband blades or M42 blade since is for hard metals and says very important to break blade in first be before cutting stainless and 100 surface feet per minute for speed and lots of oil when cutting to keep blade cool and from catching or binding . oh 10 to 14 tooth blade
I've ran into stainless alloys that work harden like crazy. Not all of them do. Didn't know what alloy it was, (it was a scrap I was fabricating something out of), but it sure was real tough to work with.
To reduce the amount of work hardening that happens, don't let the blade "rub" without biting in. Deforming or "smearing" the surface without actually peeling some amount off is what will make it harden. If your blade twists sideways if you use more feed pressure, you might need to pump up the blade tension to make the blade more rigid. Also, might help to keep the blade from twisting if you move the blade guides closer together (if they are excessively apart.)
If you need to add extra feed pressure beyond gravity alone, you could always hang a weight off the end of the saw arm.
A lathe isn't an option? S/F....Ken M
Glad someone brought it up, 300 series stainless alloys work harden like magic. Don't be gentle, you have to get a bite and run with it. Any gentle cuts or rubbing will give it a skin you'll flatten teeth trying to get through. Once this happens, best bet is to rotate it and approach it from another angle. Better blade, better lube, more aggressive, more tension.Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
What are you using for cutting lubrication?
Parting off that material on a lathe would take one hell of a machine. Parting requires a very rigid machine, parting that diameter of that material, you want something tough as nails, not an import, or Atlas, or even a SouthBend under 14/16 (and even that size may fight it).Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoSixMike
On the other hand, were it me, I'd hit it with whatever would cut it, then face it true on a lathe. Even a home-shop grade machine should be able to handle facing it. Parting is a whole other story.
I like Do-Al blades the best.
Get you a good cold saw
http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-Sl...-Cut-Saw/G0681
OK, shows you why I outsource machine work. My local guy has a nice Hardinge(think 12" swing) and a big old Pratt and Whitney in the back(18", maybe even 20" swing) I just drop the stuff off and tell him what needs doing:) S/F....Ken MQuote:
Originally Posted by Trip59
This will be my next saw from Grizzly.... http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-...-Bandsaw/G0561Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265