My 200DX came in yesterday..

yes had that happen last night had to undo the ground clamp since rod was stuck to the metal

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Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop

yes hate it lol I will go to the welding store tomorrow and get one like on the rite . The one i got with my 250ex is the one on the right but were it plugs into my mig is to big for the hole its a act of god to get the rod in it then a pain to get out to put a new stick in and is angled wrong for welding , But have to say the 205 i mig welds awesome with stick

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Those are weird looking things … I’m hoping when I get my 200DX I'll find that one of my old style electrode holders will fit ... there's alot to be said for "old school" ;-)

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Originally Posted by Winky

Those are weird looking things … I’m hoping when I get my 200DX I'll find that one of my old style electrode holders will fit ... there's alot to be said for "old school" ;-)

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The old style rod holders cost $12-15. I am still using the one that came with the machine. My pedal and torch has been working well though.

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Originally Posted by 225

The old style rod holders cost $12-15.

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I replaced my snub nose, twist style with the old style clamp holder, and I think I paid a few dollars more at the LWS. I found that after a while the contacts on snub nose type would get sooty, and I would have problems striking an arc. You can't disassemble the snub nose to get at the main contact for cleaning, and it shouldn't be that much work anyways. With the clamp style, you can just squeeze the clamp and use a brush to clean it up real quick.

Cheers
Mike

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Originally Posted by posixPilot

I replaced my snub nose, twist style with the old style clamp holder, and I think I paid a few dollars more at the LWS. I found that after a while the contacts on snub nose type would get sooty, and I would have problems striking an arc. You can't disassemble the snub nose to get at the main contact for cleaning, and it shouldn't be that much work anyways. With the clamp style, you can just squeeze the clamp and use a brush to clean it up real quick.

Cheers
Mike

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I'm beginning to see why so many people don't like the twist style rod holder. There is definitely something to "Keep it simple". Anyone replace their stock ground clamp?

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Originally Posted by undercut

Anyone replace their stock ground clamp?

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I actually like the stock clamp ... it works on pipe (split conductor on one side), fits inside 1" sq tube, and you can operate it with only one hand. I'm going to get a few more arc strikes on it before I think about swapping it out.

Cheers
Mike

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Originally Posted by undercut

There is definitely something to "Keep it simple". Anyone replace their stock ground clamp?

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I made up a Strong Hand "ground hog" for my welders with 25' of #2 cable.. Attachment 6604 I'm happy with it so far.

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Originally Posted by zoama585

I made up a Strong Hand "ground hog" for my welders with 25' of #2 cable.. Attachment 6604 I'm happy with it so far.

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OK, now *that* is a cool idea! Notice any improvement in your grounding?

If the stock ground looks like the one in the picture ... it's nice that that there is a stranded copper strand going from one side of the clamp to the other.

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Originally Posted by undercut

OK, now *that* is a cool idea! Notice any improvement in your grounding?

If the stock ground looks like the one in the picture ... it's nice that that there is a stranded copper strand going from one side of the clamp to the other.

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I haven't noticed a difference in grounding, but I never had a problem with the oem ground other than it being too short and wouldn't fit on larger square tube when I close the end for a screw in caster.
I'm not sure about the second part of your question but there's no strap going to the other side on the ground hog clamp. I stripped the #2 cable back far enough to double it over and pushed it into the ferrule.

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Originally Posted by zoama585

I haven't noticed a difference in grounding, but I never had a problem with the oem ground other than it being too short and wouldn't fit on larger square tube when I close the end for a screw in caster.
I'm not sure about the second part of your question but there's no strap going to the other side on the ground hog clamp. I stripped the #2 cable back far enough to double it over and pushed it into the ferrule.

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Sorry. Got lazy. Tried to comment on two people's messages without quoting both. I was talking about the braided strap on the picture of the original ground clamp - here:

Attachment 6613

I don't think there's anything wrong at all with the stock ground clamp. It's as good as any I've seen on a stock welder, and better than some.

A "ground hog" or magnetic flat panel ground is somewhat specialized and specific to the application. If I did that sort of work, I'd just put one together with whatever length of cable needed since it's a QD dinse connector, not a hard connection inside the welder case, as on some welders. S/F....Ken M

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Originally Posted by EchoSixMike

I don't think there's anything wrong at all with the stock ground clamp. It's as good as any I've seen on a stock welder, and better than some.

A "ground hog" or magnetic flat panel ground is somewhat specialized and specific to the application. If I did that sort of work, I'd just put one together with whatever length of cable needed since it's a QD dinse connector, not a hard connection inside the welder case, as on some welders. S/F....Ken M

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I used the dinse off of one of the oem grounds since I have two, so I can use whichever one I need on the 256 or the I-Mig.

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Originally Posted by undercut

Hey Rod, is the stick holder on the left the twist type? The pictures for the 140st and 160sth show both and I'm wondering if anyone on the forums can verify which is actually shipped with the unit. I hear the twist types are to be avoided.

Attachment 6591

Attachment 6592

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160STH came with a clamp style, which I prefer.

The above style a number of people like. You have to bend rods to get certain angles (and can chip off some flux make some of the rod unusable) and if you are in a tight spot and have a good stick where you can not rock it, you can over heat the rod and burn the flux on it.

They are OK

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Originally Posted by 225

The old style rod holders cost $12-15. I am still using the one that came with the machine. My pedal and torch has been working well though.

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I will try using the included rod holder a bit before I make any changes ... who knows I may discover I like it. I am really looking forward to the day I can finally order my 200DX I've heard a lot of good things about it. Sweet looking unit ... maybe by the time I order mine the new 2012 model with the up slope control will be available in this country.

At this point I'm starting to think maybe I should consider a 225LX over the 200DX since the LX will weld thcker metal and has a little more control (up slope and pre flow) Is there anyone out there who has both that can give their opinion on why I sould go with which ... other than cost, which still may be my final determining factor after all.

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Originally Posted by Winky

I will try using the included rod holder a bit before I make any changes ... who knows I may discover I like it. I am really looking forward to the day I can finally order my 200DX I've heard a lot of good things about it. Sweet looking unit ... maybe by the time I order mine the new 2012 model with the up slope control will be available in this country.

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It will be from what I hear :)

Go back and read my posts over he years that have LX in them. I am a big fan of the 225LX (and old 250LX) unit. Had I not worked for Everlast, I would probably still be using the old LX. Downslope is a lot more important when you hit the end of the weld..