Did you DIY your water cooling system?

My garage is usually pretty quiet save for a radio which is why the noise of the welder stands out so much http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ies/laugh2.gif

Using a 2 quart reservoir you would definitely need a heat exchanger which is why I went with the go kart tank. At 7 quarts it should be fine but I'll keep an eye on temp rise just to make sure.

My current line of think is to just mount everything on the bottom shelf of the cart and then add a wall to keep the foot pedal from knocking into it.

I'll be happy to post the build up once the parts arrive i you guys are interested. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b7...icons/wave.gif

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Originally Posted by angular

That pump is 110V and the outlet on most Everlast welders (as far as I know) is 220V. Also the max pressure rating is 35 PSI. It seems "geared" more for volume than pressure.

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Have any of you guys tried a pump designed for an evap cooler? They come in 120 and 240 volt models and are only $24. They are low pressure, yet offer a lot of flow. They also are designed to not be damaged in the event the water line is restricted or completely blocked.

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Originally Posted by DaveO

Angular, that"s a very clean setup, nicely done. Where is that little radiator from? And is that quart jug in back the reservoir?

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His cooler looks like an aftermarket transmission cooler. Try Autozone and O'Reilly auto parts.

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Originally Posted by angular

EDIT: Let me just reiterate this very important point...

The Everlast W300 cooler is a very nice unit for the money and it would be a serious challenge to build something as polished or "turn key" as that for $400. I really hesitate to encourage people to go down the path I went because it's a slippery slope and not really cheaper in the end (if time invested counts for anything). If you're a hardcore DIY type and enjoy this sort of thing, that's cool, but the only real advantage to my setup at this point is a pressure gauge and adjustable pressure regulator.

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The most expensive part should be the trans cooler. The pump you picked is wrong, so you needed a relief valve. Grainger is the last place I shop for anything since they are usually double the price of most of my suppliers. A $24 cooler pump, coupled with a $50 trans cooler, plus some hose and a tank make a good set up for under $200. For a fan, get a fan used in a walk in cooler (like a keg cooler in a bar). Another option for a fan is a computer fan. With a power supply, a computer fan will cost under $30. Quiet and they have plenty of CFM for a TIG torch cooler.

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

His cooler looks like an aftermarket transmission cooler. Try Autozone and O'Reilly auto parts.

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That's correct and I already posted a link to it earlier in this thread.

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

The most expensive part should be the trans cooler. The pump you picked is wrong, so you needed a relief valve. Grainger is the last place I shop for anything since they are usually double the price of most of my suppliers. A $24 cooler pump, coupled with a $50 trans cooler, plus some hose and a tank make a good set up for under $200. For a fan, get a fan used in a walk in cooler (like a keg cooler in a bar). Another option for a fan is a computer fan. With a power supply, a computer fan will cost under $30. Quiet and they have plenty of CFM for a TIG torch cooler.

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Right or wrong, the pump I picked is basically what many commerical TIG coolers use and a lot of guys on other welding forums recommended. It will run all day every day for many years. Some people have gotten away with running Procon carbonator pumps without an external relief valve, but in my testing this one couldn't go low enough.

I order from Grainger when it's convenient and the price on the item is acceptable. Their price on that pump motor was the same as every other online vendor and there was no shipping costs (just local sales tax).

Where exactly is this $24 pump you speak of? Honestly, how long do you think any $24 pump that can push 40-50 PSI is going to last in a TIG cooler application?

Finding and adding a 12V power supply that runs off of 230VAC just to run a fan is an added complication and expense that a lot people wouldn't be so keen on.

Have you actually built and used the DIY TIG cooler you describe for under $200? If so, post some pictures. Love to see it.

If you read the header on my post, I wrote "No offense intended." Don't get so defensive.

1. The trans cooler post was made before I read your reply.

2. The pump you picked is way over kill for the application. When you pick too high of pressure or flow, there are erosion issues as well as shortened life; not to mention the waste of dollars. Evap cooler pumps can be bought at any HVAC supply house, including Grainger's. As I mentioned, Grainger's is the most expensive parts house out there. They charge 2 to 3 times what my preferred supply houses charge for identical parts; again, no offense to you, just a warning to others to not over pay. Evap cooler pumps last for years unless they are abused. Unlike your pump, they will not get damaged if flow is interrupted; even if for hours at a time.

3. The 50 PSI rating is MAX for the torch. Less is better. Flow is important. Proper flow at the lowest possible pressure always equals the longest possible life for all components in the system. The evap cooler pump will achieve the required GPM or LPM with much less pressure than the pumps listed thus far. The evap cooler pump pushes that volume through 3/8 plastic tubes in thousands of units here in Az alone. So pushing it through a 1/4 or 3/8 torch line will be no problem.

4. Did you know that too much flow actually hurts (decreases) heat transfer in a liquid medium cooler? It is a well known fact among road racers. Running no t-stat will cause over-heating issues, so we (racers) would replace the t-stat with a washer. The engines ran cooler with a slight restriction in the water's path.

after reading everything in this great thread I have decided to forgo building my own cooler and will purchase an everlast unit. for the time involved plus the money involved I think that will be the best route for me. Now if I had a ton of surplus parts laying around and only my time was involved I think it would be worth while but as things are it doesn't add up for me.

good luck to those that go the diy route.

forgot, the 230 volt to 12 volt transformer cost $5 and the computer fans cost under $20

white wire and orange wire for primary 230
red wire and blue wire for secondary
plus 4 wire nuts

Don't get mad, be happy.

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Originally Posted by aaxiss

after reading everything in this great thread I have decided to forgo building my own cooler and will purchase an everlast unit. for the time involved plus the money involved I think that will be the best route for me. Now if I had a ton of surplus parts laying around and only my time was involved I think it would be worth while but as things are it doesn't add up for me.

good luck to those that go the diy route.

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It is just like building your MIG cart (or TIG cart). The store bought units are always less expensive. They have volume of production on their side. The only real advantage to building a water cooler is the parts are usually going to be higher quality, the workmanship will usually be better, and you get the 'WOW" factor when people come over.

I only added to this thread to show that it can be done correctly for under $200. For many guys, it is worth building when they are saving a couple hundred dollars. For some people, $449 is not big deal, for others, it is a lot of money.


Moderator Edit: Note that I merged these threads because of the consecutive posting...Simply use the edit button when possible.

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

If you read the header on my post, I wrote "No offense intended." Don't get so defensive.

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I'm not personally offended but I do find it laughable how you're telling me the pump is "wrong" and what things should cost, etcetera, when you apparently haven't even followed your own advice or built your own TIG cooler. No offense, of course. :D

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

2. The pump you picked is way over kill for the application. When you pick too high of pressure or flow, there are erosion issues as well as shortened life; not to mention the waste of dollars. Evap cooler pumps can be bought at any HVAC supply house, including Grainger's. As I mentioned, Grainger's is the most expensive parts house out there. They charge 2 to 3 times what my preferred supply houses charge for identical parts; again, no offense to you, just a warning to others to not over pay. Evap cooler pumps last for years unless they are abused. Unlike your pump, they will not get damaged if flow is interrupted; even if for hours at a time.

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I agree that the pump is overkill and I have said so in other threads, however commerical TIG coolers made by Bernard and Dynaflux do use a similar style rotary vane pumps. I'd rather err on the side of overkill than wonder if the pump is up to the job. These pumps have an interval bypass, so they won't get damanged if the flow was to get interupted. The shortened life argument doesn't hold water either.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/weldingdirect_2145_33912092 http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/weldingdirect_2146_23801196

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

3. The 50 PSI rating is MAX for the torch. Less is better. Flow is important. Proper flow at the lowest possible pressure always equals the longest possible life for all components in the system. The evap cooler pump will achieve the required GPM or LPM with much less pressure than the pumps listed thus far. The evap cooler pump pushes that volume through 3/8 plastic tubes in thousands of units here in Az alone. So pushing it through a 1/4 or 3/8 torch line will be no problem.

4. Did you know that too much flow actually hurts (decreases) heat transfer in a liquid medium cooler? It is a well known fact among road racers. Running no t-stat will cause over-heating issues, so we (racers) would replace the t-stat with a washer. The engines ran cooler with a slight restriction in the water's path.

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The design goal is up to 50 PSI for those torches and situations that need it. 40 PSI will push about 2 quarts a minute through the stock everlast torch. This is perfectly acceptable. The carbonator pump doesn't require "X" pressure. It's more or less a constant volume pump regardless of pressure.

I have no idea how a race car engine without a thermostat is relevant to this discussion.

Honestly, the water from the torch can be quite warm, but even without a fan and cooler, there shouldn't be much concern about overheating.

I was thinking of making my own system but decided on the Everlast model. Part of the decision was whether they had them when I visited, and they did. I don't really need a cooler, not planing on welding 1" aluminum all day long. But the top welder in my field prefers them, partly because of torch handling issues. So I was up for a sorta cooler, enough to keep me out of trouble, and for that, I had the following set-up in mind. I was going to run one of those drill motors one is supposed to use to empty the basement etc.... Locally a surplus sells metal body version for about 15 bucks. i have some variable speed motors with collets in the shop, so I figured I would just plug it in. Then the idea was to weld ends on some 4" aluminum pipe I have, and just use that thing's cooling capacity, I have about a 2' section so a fair volume of fluid, and good surface area. But I didn't do it, as mentioned.

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

Did you know that too much flow actually hurts (decreases) heat transfer in a liquid medium cooler? It is a well known fact among road racers. Running no t-stat will cause over-heating issues, so we (racers) would replace the t-stat with a washer. The engines ran cooler with a slight restriction in the water's path.

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I think A/C Guy was using the reference to the Race car thermostat or lack thereof to illustrate the fact that too much water flow can be a bad thing when trying to transfer heat away, thus they use a lg washer with a specific hole size to limit flow and trying to emphasize that others don't have to go your route when there are more cost effective pumps out there that may be just as reliable. After reading this thread for about the 5th time now I a torn between buying and building .

For the time being I am just going to Fit an adapter to a hose bib and Run it to torch and dump the output onto the lawn. I can get 2 PVC air hoses at HF for 15 each plus a few adapters and Im set until I decide

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ose-91527.html

I too have read this and other threads like it. I really, really like Angulars set-up and it is what the general consensus seems to recommend as well as what lots of the the big name manufacturers build. After doing the research and math I didn't feel as if my end product was going to be any improvement (quality, expense) over the factory systems, just different.
I on the other hand do plan on setting up the Everlast W300 cooler i ordered with a filtration system and a temp gage. Some wil say it's added complexity to simple device but it never has stopped me in the past! ;)

If you need a first project, a cart and/or cooler is a good one to start with. If you have projects, best to buy them, and ours are hard to beat far as price and quality.

I agree with AC guy in this regard, if I am in Grainger it's a really bad day for me. It means I had no choice and needed a "hard to find part today". They are very pricey on everything.

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Originally Posted by A/C Guy

The most expensive part should be the trans cooler. The pump you picked is wrong, so you needed a relief valve. Grainger is the last place I shop for anything since they are usually double the price of most of my suppliers. A $24 cooler pump, coupled with a $50 trans cooler, plus some hose and a tank make a good set up for under $200. For a fan, get a fan used in a walk in cooler (like a keg cooler in a bar). Another option for a fan is a computer fan. With a power supply, a computer fan will cost under $30. Quiet and they have plenty of CFM for a TIG torch cooler.

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Why waste your money on a Trans cooler, there must be a gazillion old fridges out there that have nice little radiators for that kinda thing. Salvage and reuse is the key to DIY projects

My Everlast 225LX TIG Welder is annoyingly loud enough with that fan blasting full all the time. Does anyone know what parts the quietest (as feasible) DIY water cooler would consist of that is also cheaper than Everlast's W series?

what works really well is a carbonator pump and a Heater core and fan with a 3 gal tank pretty much is exactly what Lincoln uses on there Precision tig units for there chiller
the pump can be had on ebay same with the motor to run it
the heater core any parts house
110v fan
the tank make one or get it from a restaurant supply house and make cover for it
i am pretty sure there is a reason they(the major manufactures) use this setup and have been for over 30 plus years

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Originally Posted by geezer

Why waste your money on a Trans cooler, there must be a gazillion old fridges out there that have nice little radiators for that kinda thing. Salvage and reuse is the key to DIY projects

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maybe cause its clean and not contaminated

Does anyone know which series of carbonator pumps tend to be the quietest? Also any feedback in terms of dB? Thanks for the discussion and input! :D

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Originally Posted by Welderooni

Does anyone know which series of carbonator pumps tend to be the quietest? Also any feedback in terms of dB? Thanks for the discussion and input! :D

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i have a coolit II and it has a procon pump on it and its quieter then my welder running