improvised torch switch for pp256

Hey guys. A while back I picked up a 17-v air cooled torch from HF on clearance for $1.47. Sweet torch, very maneuverable. It has a gas valve on it but no switch. My foot pedal is on the fritz so I improvised a switch out of stuff around the shop and it's actually one project I feel good enough about to share with you guys. The switch itself came in some packaging for under car neon style lighting that I installed for a customer. the switch is a momentary on/off that is part of the packaging so you can see the neons light in the store before you buy. It is intended to be disposed of with the packaging. The housing for it is a bic pen. Just a plain jane cheap plastic pen. the wires are two strands of the wire that is in a cat 5 ethernet cable. It is solid wire. The female pin receptacles were a little more tricky. I found some that fit our machines in a connector for an old school ford heated oxygen sensor. A little solder, a bit of heat shrink and viola! I have tested the switch in 2t and 4t mode and it works like a charm. as you can see from the pics it is attached to the handle only so it can be rotated to any position that is comfortable for me. The wires add practically no weight and no rigidity to the torch cable, I cannot tell it is there. check out the pics... It probably wouldnt be ideal for someone who has been using the typical thumbswitch for 20 years, but I found that its really comfortable. when I was testing it I rotated the handle so it was positioned right under my middle finger and felt really natural. just about the same as using the index to operate the "thumbswitch". best of all, It was made with stuff I had on hand. swahili for FREE!!!!. let me know what you guys think. when I go back on monday I need to figure out a way to stabilize the female pin receptacles tha tplug into the machine. Sort of make a connector. Any ideas?

Bump... Come on I thought this was brilliant! any feedback?

I am going to HF tomorrow to see if they have the torch on clearance myself. Maybe put a 47K pot on it and make a variable amp control on it too.

Brian,
That is a good idea. The fact is, that any spring loaded momentary switch should work.

looks very resourceful, works for you. I think it would take some getting used to. Any reason why you went this way instead of a paddle button, heck even a door bell button? I'd think this would be tough with gloves on? Just asking, not bashing.

I really enjoy the torch switch on the monster factory torch provided with the 225LX. I am often told I'm limiting my controlability by not using the foot pedal though. I've considered the smaller CK torch and others but I'm unwilling to give up the integrated switch. I like your idea, it seems very innovative and compact. Personally It looks better than some of the factory switch add on offerings. I see a bit of an issue with hand position for my personal use though. It is pretty darn kewl for an off the cuff design! You get an A+!

From my experience, what most people don't understand , is that all welder companies and torch manufacturers have the same type switches available. I think many people have put "misinformation" out there about our products. A purchaser of a Miller Dynasty or Lincoln invertec also have an "option" of this type switch. It is not anything new as it has been around for a while. They call it a "contactor" switch. Some are available as integrated switches like ours or some are add on with zip tie or velcro holding them on. Some people treat our units like they are unique and incompatible with other brand torches and units...and they are not. Two simple modifications need to be taken into account (as with any other company's addition of a contactor that is not OEM) are adding a 3 dollar 9mm gas coupling, and a panasonic 7 pin connector to adapt to the two wires coming from the switch. In either case, the old factory torch can be cannibalized for this purpose if the customer no longer cares to use it. Our DINSE connectors are standard across the industry and is the main concern when purchasing a torch. A contactor may be made or purchased just about at any welding store, or a contactor can be purchased already built into the torch itself from several suppliers.

Coincendentally,
This valve body torch is the same type torch that can be used with the PowerArc series to weld DC TIG, as well as the new MTS 400. Its also the same type that has been used on Miller XMT inverters since their inception.

Mark,
I've looked at a number of torch companies products and haven't had a great deal of luck locating a small water cooled torch with integrated "contactor". Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places?

http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=3439
http://www.trafimetusa.com/Products/.../ergotig20.pdf
http://www.weldcraft.com/pdfs/CrafterSeries.pdf

Here's a few different types.

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Originally Posted by cmd

looks very resourceful, works for you. I think it would take some getting used to. Any reason why you went this way instead of a paddle button, heck even a door bell button? I'd think this would be tough with gloves on? Just asking, not bashing.

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Nope. The only reason I went with this setup instead of another type of switch is because I needed to weld something right away and the foot pedal wasn't an option. My gears turned for about five seconds before I decided I was going to make a switch and out of the Items I had on hand this seemed like the better choice. I had a few different momentary switches but all of them seemed bulky once I housed the body of the switch in something and then mounted it on the torch. I didnt want to do anything invasive to the handle of the torch in case I didnt like it or had to change it for any reason. But it has worked well so far. I have been using it all week. If I am welding upright, I rotate the handle so the switch is in front under my index finger. For flats I turn it around to about the three oclock position so it sits under my middle finger. Necessity was the mother.

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Originally Posted by performance

a 3 dollar 9mm gas coupling, and a panasonic 7 pin connector

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I believe I know how to get the argon fitting but I know that panasonic connector was discussed in a post deeply a while back, I have not read anything yet about anyone actually finding ones that fit, maybe I missed it. heck I got a switch through Alex that came with I think 3 different connectors to use and none fit my EX. so where do you get them?

Neat trick. . . Do you have the Harbor Freight number for that torch? I would appreciate it as their site now does not list a TIG torch.

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Originally Posted by footboarder

Neat trick. . . Do you have the Harbor Freight number for that torch? I would appreciate it as their site now does not list a TIG torch.

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Footboarder, not all HF tools are created equal.

My local HF Tools carries no TIG torches at all. They have stingers, clamps and consumables. And mine does carry Trafimet (S45) consumables.

Months back, HF liquidated ceriated 1/8" tungsten at $.97 cents for 5 pieces (normally $12.99). I bought them all. I told a few Everlast customers while on tech support calls, a couple called me back to tell me there HF did not have them, so either someone like me got them all or they're all not setup quite the same in the welding area.

that torch was being discontinued as a seperate item. It is now included as part of the lowest 220 tig welder they have. if u open one of those boxes you will see the torch. dont bother trying to get them to sell just the torch. they also have a pretty sweet looking little binzel tig torch with switch that is included with the higher end tig welder and kept on the shelf in a seperat box. I've tried like hell to get them to sell me that on too but no luck. Persistence will pay off though. As for the tungstens I have bought some of them too. I just bought the HF 90 amp inverter to run the very same torch off of. It works like a champ too and the 1/16 pre sharpened tungsten is good for on the go. I would be cautious about the grey banded ones though. The package says "seriated" but with a grey band. Maybe the chinese color coding is different? Anyways that little inverter works astonishingly well for scratch start. weighs in at like 7 lbs. the extension cord weighs more! will not run off a gfi breaker though which is probably true of most welders. I have successfully run it off of 100 feet extension cord and it still outputs max power. I would like to disable the anti stick feature (it is made for SMAW). Occaisionally at low amperage the arc dies down to almost nothing but stays lit, and you have to back the torch away from the work and it pops back on. Maybe I can utilize it for heat control... Anyway I recommend that little inverter highly if you need something to run off of 110 power and need something light. here is a link to it


http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-91110.html

Wrenchtamer,

I like the switch, it seems that being in a different plane than most contact switches on torches that it would come in handy on some weld setups. It seems that it's more like squeezing a trigger than the usual button press on the side of the "pencil."
Nice work.