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I think I'm getting the hang of this
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are you pedaling or using the 2T button? what amps you at? what size filler? what torch? perhaps we can offer suggestions.
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I was pedaling it.
3/32 2% thoriated, WP 20 torch. 3/32 I was using 100 amps and 1/16 308l filler to weld the bungs into the ends of the tubes.
IIRC I bumped it up to 120 amps and 3/32 70s2 filler to weld the tabs onto the cross member.
I think I might have been a little low on the amps as I was concerned about blowing through the thin wall of the tube before I had a puddle in the bungs that were much thicker.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
WILD BILL
I was pedaling it.
3/32 2% thoriated, WP 20 torch. 3/32 I was using 100 amps and 1/16 308l filler to weld the bungs into the ends of the tubes.
IIRC I bumped it up to 120 amps and 3/32 70s2 filler to weld the tabs onto the cross member.
I think I might have been a little low on the amps as I was concerned about blowing through the thin wall of the tube before I had a puddle in the bungs that were much thicker.
the reason I asked if you were using the pedal: on the tubes in the second photo, you have a weld on the lower left that looks much different than the ones on the right. You seem to have some about too hot and some a little cold IMO. I would suggest you set an amperage and use your button so you can focus on your bead and not your foot. It seems intimidating as you feel you have no control on the heat but in reality for your skill level I think it will do you good and be easier. I think you are pretty close on the amps, I do not know how thick your material is. If the bungs are heavier than the tubes, focus your heat on them and just "wash" into the tube. I know there are a lot of guys that pulse with their foot, you have a 250ex from what I see in your posts, you have a lot of pulse options built in. Before I got my 250ex I only ever used finger amp controls, now that I took the time to practice with 2t/4t I am very happy welding that way, It isn't for everything but almost. It seems to cut down on bad habits too.
chris
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I have a 225 lx so not as many pulse options.
How can you tell by looking at a completed weld if it was to hot or to cold? What is it you see or are looking for?
I'll try to keep in mind your suggestions next time I have a project like this.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
WILD BILL
I have a 225 lx so not as many pulse options.
How can you tell by looking at a completed weld if it was to hot or to cold? What is it you see or are looking for?
I'll try to keep in mind your suggestions next time I have a project like this.
perhaps it is an optical illusion but it looks in the photo, as if the lower left like I said was cold has a higher rounded bead but the others which lay almost flat. I believe if you find a balance between the two you should be doing nice. It may not be in your heat but in your travel speed and keeping your speed consistent. Which basically goes back to use the button, take the heat control out of the equation, focus on smooth travel and smooth filler feeding.
BTW I don't know how much you know but I would not even be worried about using pulse right now. You do not have to pulse to get the TIG "look"
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I see what your sayin on the one bead. I thought the same thing and after the pic was taken I went back over that one re melted the existing bead and it now looks like the others.
I will admit I know very little of what I'm doing. Got the machine in Nov and have about a bottle and a half (125 cf) worth of practice.
Given the short amount of time and nothing but youtube videos and questions on forums for trtaining I'm surprised at well my welds are doing.
I will take all the advise I can get.
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Welding small dia. stuff is always difficult , cause of the number of times you have to reposition your hand. A rotating fixture of some sort would have been a help to you, but just by looking at the welds I can see you are improving with every new weld. Manuals and Vid's are good, but There is no substitute for practice in the real world.
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A welding lathe would have been a god send LOL
