simple torch changeover

ok guys. as I had proudly announced in a forum a couple of weeks ago, I recently picked up a new tig torch (wp-17v) from my local hf store on clearance for 1.47 cents. it is a nice air cooled torch with a gas valve on it. It came with a 12.5 foot air cooled cable and 3/8 dinse connector. no gas fitting though. I had the 1/2 inch dinse connector from the nub holder stinger that originally came witht he machine. it has a threaded hole in it that looks like it could either accept a gas fitting or , as currently configured, a setscrew to retain the power cable. after calling my lws to check in fittinggs I had a bit of a eureka moment. I removed the stock power cable from that connector and simply tightened the 3/8 end of that new torch right down with the setscrew. trimmed the original cover to fit, and viola! I removed the gas fitting clamp from my stock torch and stuck the gas hose right over it. So now I have a nice air cooled torch with sweet flexible cable for a total investment of... 1.47. BTW, I have returned to the cooler project. it is the bottom 1/3rd of a 100 gallon barrrel with tthe top cut off and re-welded so now it looks like a little pancake barrel. I stuck an air fitting with pressure regulator in it so I can supply my coolant flow without the need for a pump. all i need is the shop air supply. I have multiple condensers and heater cores on standby, but with ten gallons of coolant in the pressure vessel it seems not to need any additional heat exchange. just thought I would mention the idea. I will post some pics when I get the opportunity. Where there is a will there is a way I suppose. :wink:

Sounds like a great idea for a simple cooler set-up! How did you get the return flow back into the barrel if the whole circuit is under pressure??

I think the reason it works is because the return orifice is much smaller than the output.

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Originally Posted by dirtyfarmer

Sounds like a great idea for a simple cooler set-up! How did you get the return flow back into the barrel if the whole circuit is under pressure??

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No coolant will NOT flow if both lines are connected to the same pressure source. No mater what. Exept maybe through convection, and that won't cut it.

Dirt man is right.

Thermosiphoning can work depending upon demand. Years ago, I built a thermosiphoning water heater and it would heat quickly. Cooling should be no different as long as the correct flow path was established. It won't be as efficient and works on temperature differential...It pumps quite well.

Perhaps I should reserve judgment till I see the picture.
What I envisioned was a pressurized barrel with both lines connected to the barrel.
I think I know what you’re referring to Mark, it’s the same principal an electric engine block heater works? There is a check valve of sorts involved?
Oh, yea is there a picture somewhere?