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http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...g-machine.html
Wish he would have said what electrode, filler, and cup size he was using. Thinking probably 1/16"?
Sure looks like the beads came out cleaner using the Everlast machine then they did on the Miller.
I don't know if he couldn't get a good arc start at lower amps but it looked like the miller was set at a higher amperage than the everlast. He was feeding and moving pretty quick with that miller, with the everlast he was able to slow down considerably.
The harsh sounds was the AC frequency. Anyone trying this with our units, you can bump the AC frequency up a little and it will sound better. I prefer the lower frequency myself even with the sound.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugar
I've never welded just a bead on them like he has, but I've butt welded them together. I used 1/16 electrode and 1/16 filler. I should have used smaller filler but the large filler helped pull down the heat when introduced to the puddle, which was nice, not proper but it made it easier I thought. I'd like to try .040 electrode but I do not have any and have no reason to get any other than welding cans lol. I think I was around 18 amps- I think. I cannot recall what I pulsed at.
Ive tried welding them together, but had a hard time getting a bead going without burning through. But all I had was 3/32" electrodes. I did manage a short bead on one, but not very long. I just got some 1/16" Arctime electrodes yesterday, so I will give it another try now.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmd
Rugar,
I have tried some with a 3/32 filler, and it takes more amps than you need to keep the arc stable but hot enough to melt it. 1/16 is in order for this type of trick welding. :)
Ive got filler in 4043 in 1/16 and 3/32, 308L in 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8, and 70s-2 in 1/16 and 3/32.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Electrodes in 3/32 Red, 3/32 Blue, 3/32 Tri-Mix, and now Acrtime in 1/16 and 3/32.
Gonna get this TIG thing down if it kills me! :)
I used a #4 cup, I think you could do it with a #6, just have more electrode stickout. the hardest part is holding the cans still and grounded without mangling them. you will want your WP20 size torch as well to minimize cursing.
that 4043 1/16 will workQuote:
Originally Posted by Rugar
btw wash and dry out the can, i think i was pulling dried up syrup through the back into the weld. maybe i can get a photo later
The most important thing I got out of that video was the difference in how you set the controls up, I like my 250ex and the knobs which give you an instant view of all your settings.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/PC170010.jpg
i didn't get too serious when doing this, I should have come up with something to hold the cans still, my weld would look a lot nicer. the hardest thing is getting your bead started, once you get rolling its not too bad. my photo does not show very good. I bought the old lady a nice fancy camera and took her old one. its no wonder she wanted a new one.
Once you've mastered the Coke can's try razor blades and then tin foil.. Hint.... run in, run out. Some call those parlor tricks but knowing how to make it work is something you'll use in real life.
I probably wont ever master it.
Looks great from here. I welded cans together successfully, once. I posted some details on the machine settings and procedure.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...inum-cans.html
That was with prepping the surface well. After that, I got all cocky and decided to skip the surface prep. The result was a contaminated mess of a "puddle" that can only be described as an "epic weld fail." I also noticed there was a pretty bad smell, probably some something on the surface burning that I should have removed. :rolleyes:
I do have my footpedal dialed in now so I should be able to control amps in the 1-20 amp range quite accurately, so I am looking forward to trying welding something thin again. I've got some .010" thick aluminum from round clothes dryer ductwork I'd like to see if I can figure out how to weld. It is THIN!