Tig Torch options

I have a powertig 200dx, love the welder, hate the torch. it's big and unwieldy and the cable is heavy. I'm really struggling to get nice uniform beads working with it. What i'm looking for is something much smaller and lighter with a much lighter cable. I would prefer to keep the button on the torch as work most of the time underneath cars lying on my back and a foot pedal is useless. are there any torches out there that are compatible with these everlast machines?
Most of the welding I do stays under 100amps.

Thanks
Jim

Jim I have a 250 ex and didn't like the original torch either so I ordered the #20 torch from Everlast and it is much lighter but the cables are still very stiff.

I also just noticed the insulation on the negative cable looks melted. I've only welded a half a dozen SS couplings and haven't had the amperage over 100 amps so I'm not sure whats going on there.

If you find a good #20 torch and fittings to hook it up to the 250ex please let us know..I'm getting a little tired of screwing with torches.

All the best, Chuck

Read this thread

793-how-i-set-my-250ex-up-new-torch

read through the recent topics, there has been a lot of talk on this. that torch i have (in the link) is as limp as a wet noodle with the water cooler turned on even. i love it.

I'm also in the process of getting a Weldcraft WP 20 torch hooked up.

As soon as I get the adapters I'm waiting on and know everything works I'll post my results.

I recently upgraded to a CK aircooled torch and highly recommend them, especially with their "superflex" one-piece gas/power hose. Small, maneuverable, and they can really take the heat.

They do need an adapter at the machine end to get it to fit a everlast machine. Also, they don't come "out of the box" with any torch switch (but you could buy an everlast style TIG torch switch to add on to one if needbe.)

If you want to be able to use your machine "to the max" with just one torch that "does it all", the torch I got would be a good fit on your 200 amp machine. Its the TL210 (trimline 210), rated 200 amps AC @ 100% duty cycle and uses WP17 components. It has comparable size and maneuverability as the old school everlast WP17 torch (which couldn't handle anywhere near as much heat or current as the CK.) From what I hear it should be smaller and more maneuverable than the big-amp Everlast watercooled torch that you have.

If you want an even smaller, more nimble torch, there are smaller aircooled ones that use WP9 cups and collets rated at 120 or 130 amps AC @ 100% duty cycle. If you went this route you could perhaps keep your old big everlast torch handy for those times when you need to run more amps, and use your smaller torch otherwise. These lesser amp torches will have smaller, more flexible cables as well, although FYI I feel the TL210 cable is not overly cumbersome.

There are also "stubby" collets and collet bodies that let you fit the smaller WP9 cups onto a torch designed to take WP17 components, which I am trying out in my TL210 and aside from costing a little more and being kind of hard to track down, they are pretty sweet.

Regardless of which route you choose, just make sure you get a "superflex" style hose, or similar. This is a very flexible rubber hose, that has a braided textile covering (and affixed to) the outside of rubber hose. Typical, cheaper hoses (including the entire everlast torch lineup) have PVC with reinforcement molded in the middle of the PVC. The PVC is no where near as flexible, and I also don't think it can take as much heat before it melts (which on a one-piece power/has hose setup, can cause contaminants to be offgassed into your inert shielding gas by the way, and really and crap up your welds.) If you get the PVC style hose up near melting temp it will go REAL FLEXIBLE and "go limp" all of the sudden at the end right next to the torch, however if this happens watch out you are on the edge (and maybe even just went past it) in terms of how much current your torch and cable can carry.

In the case of a one-piece power/gas hose assembly, there will also be a bare braided (flexible) copper conductor situated inside of this hose. So in all, you'll get just one hose, and just one piece of copper inside that hose with a one-piece aircooled setup.

A water cooled setup by contrast will have three hoses, two of which have liquid coolant in them, and one piece of copper (although that copper conductor can be made smaller though because its immersion in liquid coolant.) FYI I looked at the CK "triflex" hose (PVC hose with all three hoses molded into one, rather stiff assembly) and I did not how stiff it was.

I have a 250ex I purchased for my business. The wp-17 torch that came with it didnt last very long after welding above 150 amps so I purchased the wp-20 water cooled torch from Everlast here in Canada. Its a lot easier on the wrist if you do a lot of welding (which I do on a daily basis) and the water cooling is great for anything over 150amps. The torch lasted me about a month or two and then started leaking at the head. I called Everlast and they offered to replace it free of charge, but it would take 4-6 weeks for delivery. So I borrowed a CK torch from a friend for the time being. When the new torch arrived , it only lasted me about 3 days and started to leak out of the water return/electrode wire. Upon closer inspection I noticed the rubber return/electrode wire had some small pinholes where my coolant was leaking from. My analysis tells me the rubber they use is cheap and cannot resist the heat enough so the rubber shrinks and forms pinholes. So I spent the $$$ on a water cooled CK minitorch. Im using an abicor-binzel water cooler, which is used on production robotic tig welders so I know its not a cooling issue. The Everlast torches are good if your not using a lot of heat, which defeats the purpose of the water cooling. I tried to order just the return/electrode wire alone, but my inquiry was ignored. I guess they dont just sell the wire itself... I might shell out the money for another torch just to have as a spare one in the shop. Last month someone ran over our mig torch with the forklift so its always good to have a spare.

Our WP 20 torches are rated for 250 amps DC and 175 AC for maximum duty cycle.

Our torch factory on the WP 20's supply the same torches OEM for some name brands if I am not mistaken. We are developing this market and the torches are new to us but have been around a while. Its hard to beat a CK, for design and quality, that's for sure.

Your original torch should have been a WP 18 or 26, not 17. The 17 is only a 150 amp torch with about 35% duty cycle.

Depending upon your water cooling anti freeze, the pin holes could be caused by it.

You can remove the outer heavy sleeve from the torch and replace it with the flexible braided cover. It will increase the flexibility quite a bit especially in colder temperatures.
Wayne

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WAYNESWORLD

You can remove the outer heavy sleeve from the torch and replace it with the flexible braided cover. It will increase the flexibility quite a bit especially in colder temperatures.
Wayne

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You could also replace the hoses with CK superflex and make a really big difference. The Everalst torch is not a bad torch. I think it's the jacket and cables that make it unwieldly. I can't wait for the spring thaw myself. I'm getting tired of all my coiled up cords and hoses not wanting to uncoil. LOL..

I use CK torches mostly but I also use the Everlast often enough that I'm not going to discount it's value.