TIG splatter on ceramic cup

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12-08-2010, 08:22 AM
jas329

TIG splatter on ceramic cup

Ok so I started using the TIG on the PM205 and all was going well...

http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/IMG_0411.jpg

until this happened....

http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/IMG_0408.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/IMG_0407.jpg

Settings:
1/4" steel, cleaned weld joint
1/16" 2% Ceriated Tungsten, No.5 cup, 1/8" stick out, 4T torch control
DCEN 140amps, 40% up-slope, 25% down-slope, 4s post flow
about 12lpm 100% argon

After the electrode melted I wasn't too surprised because I was using such a small electrode at 140 amps. But the kicker is that when I looked at the argon pressure and it was at zero, oops!:eek: So the combination of the high amps/small dia. electrode and no shielding gas caused this to happen.

My question is whether the ceramic cup is toast because it has molten steel splattered on it, it didn't crack so is it still ok to use?:confused: Can I continue to use the tungsten electrode if I grind the tip back to a point?
12-08-2010, 09:18 AM
geezer

4 to 6 L/mn not 12, 7 to 12 CFH
12-08-2010, 03:09 PM
sschefer

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezer

4 to 6 L/mn not 12, 7 to 12 CFH

Everything I see say's not enough gas flow. That slag is tungsten and all that junk around the weld is from lack of sheilding gas coverage and tungsten spit. If you're using a flow meter that reads in CFH you should be around 25 CFH on steel.. 12-15 for Aluminum. Not sure what it would be in litres.
12-08-2010, 03:10 PM
performance

Cup can be cleaned up. Use sandpaper ONLY to clean it up. Break the tungsten off with a pair of pliers above the contaminated area, then resharpen.
12-08-2010, 06:00 PM
geezer

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschefer

Everything I see say's not enough gas flow. That slag is tungsten and all that junk around the weld is from lack of sheilding gas coverage and tungsten spit. If you're using a flow meter that reads in CFH you should be around 25 CFH on steel.. 12-15 for Aluminum. Not sure what it would be in litres.

Checkout page 3 @ http://www.ckworldwide.com/technical.htm

It's a handy down load for different cup types and charts on gas types and flows.
12-09-2010, 07:29 PM
jas329

Thanks for all the info, I tried to sand off all the slag on the cup from the tungsten rod but that stuff was pretty tough to get off so I stopped when I noticed cracks around the cup where the slag hit. I'll just pick up a few replacements instead, but I was thinking about picking up a gas lens kit to try, seems like the laminar flow of the gas and having the electrode stick out more would make it easier to weld with. Has anyone used a gas lens with this torch?

So I resharpened the tungsten and turned down the gas flow to about 8L/min which seems to work fine. But I do notice that at start-up the outer edge of the weld is left with a black residue, is that normal? the rest of the weld is fine, it just happens when you start the arc. Maybe lack of gas coverage at start-up or dirty base material?
12-09-2010, 08:06 PM
geezer

Quote:

Originally Posted by jas329

Thanks for all the info, I tried to sand off all the slag on the cup from the tungsten rod but that stuff was pretty tough to get off so I stopped when I noticed cracks around the cup where the slag hit. I'll just pick up a few replacements instead, but I was thinking about picking up a gas lens kit to try, seems like the laminar flow of the gas and having the electrode stick out more would make it easier to weld with. Has anyone used a gas lens with this torch?

So I resharpened the tungsten and turned down the gas flow to about 8L/min which seems to work fine. But I do notice that at start-up the outer edge of the weld is left with a black residue, is that normal? the rest of the weld is fine, it just happens when you start the arc. Maybe lack of gas coverage at start-up or dirty base material?

Preflow will help with that, however the best thing you can do to improve the situation now, is up the electrode size, a 1/16 electrode is good for up to 140 amps on pulse and 70 amps without. Less than that if the tip is not blunted a bit. Check out page 4 of the article I posted previously.
12-10-2010, 05:40 PM
sschefer

Theres a couple of other things that might cause this:

1. A faulty collet body.
2. Collet in backwards.
3. Torch side gas leak, (sucks in air).
4. If you're using a water cooled torch, check for a water leak also.

Just brainstorming...

S
12-10-2010, 06:51 PM
jakeru

Quote:

Originally Posted by jas329

when I looked at the argon pressure and it was at zero, oops!:eek: So the combination of the high amps/small dia. electrode and no shielding gas caused this to happen.

I've done similar when I forgot to turn on my gas too, and found the deposit to be really tenaciously attached to the cup material, and very hard also. The aluminum oxide cup material near the deposit, also on mine was even "melted away" somewhat near the deposit, so IMO its not an easy fix, if its even possible to restore to the cup to its original condition.

So, for the $1-$2 this replacement cup probably costs from your local welding supply, you might want to just write this one off as a peace offering to the welding gods.

And try to make sure your gas is turned on before next time you weld. :wink: