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Looking at the 250EX specifically for the spot timer function. Wondering if i can get away with a lower model and get the same or similar results (consistent attractive spot welds).
The 250EX is about double my budget (and would still need to buy an air cooled torch), but the $ not as important as the final outcome.
My usage is 99% non structural "sculpture" type stuff made out of 18g stainless and aluminum, plus old keys (cupronickel) and coins (copper, brass, nickel, stainless).
Gee,
I'll recommend getting the 255EXT, even if you have to wait or save a little for it. But it is on sale right now, marked-down about $500, to $1999.
The 250EX Everlast AC/DC TIG model seems to be the lowest priced on with a spot timer.
But, the 255EXT isn't that much more than the 250EX. And it has more features, like memory function, and that Triangle waveform, for thinner aluminum. I mean, if you haven't welded aluminum yet, you'll undoubtedly appreciate that extra waveform while learning. I did, on my 210EXT (which has no spot timer).
So, as they say, "Buy once, cry once."
Of course, there'll be no actual crying when getting a new, advanced-featured Everlast AC/DC TIG unit.
Quite the opposite. You'll undoubtedly dig an EXT model for years to come, as I have, for 6 years now. I mean, I just swapped out two empty 200CF Argon bottles today, and I was only out of Argon for about two days. But I felt like I was naked for those two days. Ha, ha, ha...
Do you currently have a DC-TIG welding unit, or are you a complete TIG newbie?
Of course, you really don't "need" a timer feature to do TIG spot welds consistently (not that I've bothered to try any), as there are TIG alumina cups specially designed with little stand-offs for tungsten arc lengths that are always consistent. Then I'd just use the 2T function at a particular amperage with one of those body panel vice grip clamps for one or two seconds, or whatever the material calls for.
Please let us all know what you decide, and try to include pics of whatever you produce.
Attachment 14063
Otherwise,
An actual spot welder doesn't cost much.
Attachment 14064
Wade, i would not laugh if it turns out that you are commanding good money for your sculptures. I wish that I had the talent to be a movie star or whatever.
Back in 2001 when I was working for E.F. Lea Electric at the Coca-Cola plant in Twinsburg, Ohio I used something like a spot welder only it was a stud welder for welding 1/4-20 threaded stainless steel to other stainless steel objects with out having to drill holes. It ran on a 120-volt extension cord just like small spot welders. Stainless steel is very tough to drill. It is a very abrasive metal and when it heats up it gets harder and harder. You need to use a cobalt steel drill bit, lubricant e.g. thick hand lotion with both grease and water, and pretend that you are drilling into frozen beef without generating enough heat to thaw out the beef stainless steel will drill as easily as frozen beef. If you fight with stainless steel it fight back and will destroy your drill bit. Some of the other employees did destroy drill bits because they were not patient enough to take their time and just pushed harder and harder.