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I got my Power i-TIG 200T going.
The negative dinse connector in the machine seems to have, "normal" fit and everything snugs up in it at around a quarter turn and locks in.
The positive dinse connector has a much looser fit.
Nothing starts to tighten up until past a half a turn and seems to stay, but doesn't seem very secure or locked in.
is this normal?
Is there that much variation in connectors or is the positive one looser than it should be?
Gee,
I wouldn't sweat it, as a Dinse connector of any manufacturer isn't a super-precision proposition.
But, if you really want to cinch it up a little more snugly or earlier in the rotation, you could probably take a center punch and peen a point or two on the notched tab, to pucker the soft brass metal up a bit, which will undoubtedly make the fit tighter as it rotates and comes to its end point.
Or, just buy some extra Dinse connectors, as they're low-cost. I usually have a couple of spares on hand for making longer Grounds (+), DCEN.
And, the torch lead is the more critical or costly one, with the gas and hose integrated into it. But you seem to be all-good there.
Attachment 13860
It seems to be working alright.
I had heard that they were quarter turn fittings, but I see now after watching some videos closely, that it looks like quite a few turn farther.
I guess I could replace the whole fitting if I needed to, but it seems to work alright.
The negative fitting is tight, right at a quarter turn.
that is what I was expecting.
I get about three quarters of a turn with the positive fitting.
I don't know if that is normal.
I got a smaller TIG torch.
The thickest tubing have right now is 0.035" thick.
I got a number 9 torch and I'm trying a 1/16" tungsten now, but I might try 0.040".
I'm using some Harris 0.035" ER70S-2.
My shop has 240 volt outlets for the machine tools, but none for an electric welding machine, so I have to test the machine on 120 volts for now.
I'll wire up another 240 volt outlet for it soon.
Yeah,
The Dinse on the torch may just run up on the bumper sooner, no biggie. I mean, you could also put an O-ring on the Ground Dinse to make it cinch-up at around a quarter turn. But I wouldn't bother, as you'd undoubtedly be splitting proverbial hairs. Just start using that baby!
When I first upgraded to an AC/DC TIG unit, nearly 5 years ago, I did try a #9 TIG torch, as it fit onto the same gas hose as a #17 torch, and because I think I watched a Mr. TIG video where he seemed to like the smaller size and weight of a #9 torch. I also used a 1/16" tungsten with it.
And, I suppose if you're always going to be doing that thin-walled stuff, a #9 torch is good. But I soon reverted back to a #17 torch and a 3/32" tungsten for most everything, while also preferring a 1/6" filler, sometimes a 3/32" filler though. A #9 torch won't hold up too long when exceeding over 100 amps, especially on a flex head. And a 1/16" tungsten can occasionally spit tungsten particles into the puddle with higher amperages too.
Thin is trickier, and you're just a newbie, right? And butting up thin-walled tubing is trickier still. I mean, that's what I self-taught myself with a DC TIG unit on: bike frames for eBike stuff.
Otherwise, if you're welding thin stuff, you don't 220/240V power. I'm currently using my 210EXT on 120V, at up to 125 amps (may capable of more, too), since I moved recently, and the unattached garage is 120V. So, I'm pretty impressed at how useful the dual-voltage capacity can be on Everlast units.
Here's a pretty cool YouTube Channel (Pithy Bikes) of a guy who builds bikes with an Everlast unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AT1...&index=29&t=0s
Welding these tubes doesn't seem too bad. Thinner tubes are suppose to be more difficult.
The 0.035" TIG rod is quite a bit thinner than the 1/16" brazing rod I'm used to feeding.
I bought some new fangled tri-mix or rare earth tungsten.
I'm not sure there is a difference in those, but maybe.
I just bought a three pack to try out.
I changed one of my grinding wheels for one to sharpen the tungsten.
For now I got an 80 cu ft tank f argon.
I may go bigger if I set up to back purge the tubing.
It won't help strength i don't think, but it is suppose to prevent hard carbon from forming on backside of the welds, that could make it more difficult to ream the seat tube and such.
i'm just using a regular torch cup for now.
Yeah,
Include some pics when you've settled into your new machine.
I mean, those compact Everlast DC TIG units seem to be an ideal choice for low-amp, low-cost welding on thinner steel tubing.
I just used some short pieces so far. I have to bend them and cut them to make sure they are going to be solid. Once the welds start looking presentable, I can try a bike frame. For now, it's only scraps for practice and testing.
I did get three 3/32" tungstens for the original 26 torch as I only have 3/32" collets for it. I'm going to try it with the switch and low speed pulse to, "pace" myself with the pulse and see how that goes. I'm trying to some ideas on pulse settings right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by christian
I did turn the output as low s it would go to see how low it goes.
The readout goes down to 2 amps..
It's not quiet, but it's not too oud.
I did see one of your videos where you comment on how quiet your 210 EXT is.
I almost got one of those, but have no plans to weld aluminum.
With the features and accessories and the sale at the time, it was tempting though.