I have a cut 50D, I was making a cut and it just stopped working.I was cutting 20 gauge metal, I am getting air but no spark, and I already checked the torch wires they are good.Here is my # 205-938-2944 or 205-310-7484
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I have a cut 50D, I was making a cut and it just stopped working.I was cutting 20 gauge metal, I am getting air but no spark, and I already checked the torch wires they are good.Here is my # 205-938-2944 or 205-310-7484
Greg,
Was good talking to you yesterday. Let me know how things went. You have my cell.
came in three weeks ago, getting a spark but nothing else, frustrated to say the least, ready to ship it back.bill 208 683 2592
Ouch. I'm curious to hear what happened.
If you're just getting arc, what about air? Maybe the solenoid valve for air is stuck or something?
If you're getting air, is it the cut that's not happening?
I spoke to Bill at 3:00 yesterday, a couple hours after this post.
First off, I have been here everyday, many time a day, for the last three weeks. If we do not know there is still an issue we obviously can not help.
We are sending Bill new consumables. But it sounds like moisture in the air.
If this does not resolve the issue we will exchange the unit. But we are having no problems with the new models and if we get a call on one, we normally get a call back shortly stating everything is working fine now.
Good to hear it's probably not "serious".
I run 3 filters before air hits my plasma; a Harbor Freight cheapie, followed by a Sharpe canister (similar to the HF but a much nicer / higher quality build), and then a Motorguard toilet paper roll style filter. Between the HF and the Sharpe, I have a 50 foot coil of 3/8" copper for the air line. I also ran 3/4" copper tubing along the walls, and set up the vertical drops with drain valves at the bottom of the lines. Though I did this before copper prices went crazy, it was well worth the time and money spent. Supposedly the copper helps cool the air and cause the water vapor to 'drop out'.
{I originally set my air up this way for painting, but it works well for the plasma, so I use it for that also}
Most people don't realize the value of dry air in a plasma cutter. The water vapor produces HOO when electrified and the stream of gas cuts like a knife through hot butter, including consumables and electrodes. A drop or two of water is all it takes to foul a tip.
Now, with that said, the filter on the back is basically a last defense filter/trap. It traps the moisture but it is not a dryer. A dryer in the line is the best way to pull moisture from the air. Also, most people refuse to drain their air tank on a daily or regular basis...If the tank has water in it, then you know the humidity coming from the tank is quite high. Also great lengths or runs of tubing or air hose from the tank make an additional area for water to collect into droplets and water.
Any time a plasma cutter seems to "blow" out the side or doesn't seem to penetrate when the main arc is transfered is a good sign that the consumables are worn, and if the holes are burned out larger, this is usually because of 2 or 3 things: Improper cutting technique, cutting into corners or into blind holes causing extra blowback onto the nozzle face, excessive piercing beyond 30%-40% of the machines cutting capability, or water in the line. Usually a nozzle change helps. Occasionally, an electrode may work loose internally and will cause misfires because the internal gap isn't correct or its closed between the electrode and the nozzle cup. If one is routinely piercing, it can cause overheating of the nozzle and blowback which will stick to the nozzle cup and cause shorting between workpiece and slag build up instead of a clean plasma stream from the oriface. Piercing, and cutting capacity on anyones machines are not the same...though it is often confused.
I posted this on another thread but it applies here as well:
I have a small disposable filter that they sell for paint guns on my plasma as a precautionary measure and it helps trap moisture and dirt from entering the machine. Any body shop or paint supply store or online supplier should stock them. They are ¼ npt threads and cost around $20.
Wayne
I am glad to finally get onto the forum. I have read a few things that might answer my questions. I bought the Everlast 10 months ago, but am just now getting around to using it. My consumables seem to burn up really fast. Sometimes in minutes. I have experience with three other brands of Plasma cutters and have not had this problem. With them I was able to use tips and electrodes for hours and hours before replacing. Sometimes the Everlast consumables burn out in 20 minutes which could make this inexpensive tool expensive to use. I read Mark's post dated July 2009 and water in my line might be my issue. I will try more filters and let you know. I am working on a 8foot sheet metal spider that is a scultpural bike rack. I'll post a picture later this week.
Welcome aboard. Sorry about the delay. I sent you an email as well with the PSI and what CFM you will need. Hope that helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by bgardnerid
I believe the torch that you have now has some "long" life consumables that are offered. I don't know if they are in stock yet or not, but I think it is a new item.
This may not fix your problem if you have water, oil from compressor or something else contaminating your line.
A lot of "burned" up consumables are from too close of a standoff or dragging. While our torches can be drug, it will cut performance life by as much as 50-70% .
Other non-machine related things that can "burn" up consumables:
1) Cutting consistently materials over 50% of rated cut capacity. This causes more "blowback" onto nozzle face, shorting, overheating and melting nozzle.
2) Exceeding recommended duty cycle. This ties into #1. Going above 50% of the rated capacity starts the decline of the duty cycle of the machine and the torch. Depending upon unit, maximum cutting capacity is usually between 35-60%, The torch does not necessarily correspond in duty cycle curve, it can have a much steeper drop off.
3) Piercing in excess of 50% of cut capacity. Piercing capacity is always lower than cut capacity with any mfgr, that I am aware of.
4) Starting and stopping unit constantly, enacting pilot arc which consumes a small bit of electrode in process.
5) Innapropriate air pressure. Use somewhere between 55-65 psi.
6 Cutting in corners or cutting in T connection areas where blowback can occur.
7 Loose electrode in torch head. This can happen unnoticed while cutting. The electrode can gradually loosen during use, causing inappropriate contact or air gap internally. Make sure electrode is tightened more than finger tight. Do not overtighten as to strip threads, but make it secure.
8. Leaving swirl ring out or installing swirl ring wrong. If the torch has a swirl ring, it will quickly burn out the consumables if it is missing ...Its purpose is to swirl the air to create a tight and focused arc. The arc leave the torch nozzle at supersonic speeds.
9. Poor work (ground) connection, causing pilot arc to relight while cutting. The pilot arc is not designed for cutting, although it could theoretically melt a little piece into the metal, it will not cut and the symptom can be noticed if arc flame begins to flatten out and not penetrate.( This condition can also be caused by worn electrodes or problems in the machine not allowing arc to transfer).
10. Improperly matched amperage to metal thickness. Its a natural tendancy to "turn" it up all the way to cut all metal thickness. This just puts a higher demand on the consumables and shortens the life. If you will adjust the amps for metal gauge, then you will get cleaner, more satisfactory cuts with added consumable life to boot.
11. Wrong polarity... Use, DCEN, or straight polarity when cutting. DCEP "reverse" polarity will kill a consumable quickly and will make a messy cut.
I frequently use a larger Miller spectrum 80 amp machine, and depending upon the cutting, I have seen a tip burn up in 30 minutes or less, because it is cutting beveled plate that is only 3/8 inch thick, yet the cut is beveled at 35 degrees, which makes it cut like much thicker material. The torch is angled and not positioned straight down. This allows the arc to draw off the side of the electrode and eats up consumables in minutes, especially if blowback is collecting on the lower part of the tip
Hello bgardnerid ,
Welcome and sorry to highjack this thread but I'd like to see the pictures of that spider bike rack.
Wayne
Tried earlier to post a lengthy reply. For some reason it disappeared before I
could submit. Hate when that happens. I have not been pushing Cut 60 at 100% duty cycle and do pay attention to duty cycle so don't think that is the issue with sloppy cuts, lots of dross and quickly burning up consumables. My PSI is accurate, so that is not the issue either. I did learn as I worked that the tips sometimes get loose so tighten with plier and recheck often for loosness. Might have had water in line, so did install 3rd air filter. Will try Mark's suggestion of not dragging to start and leaning tip to 45 degree (or less)angle instead of 90 to establish arc. I don't weld or cut every day but did carry my entry level welding certs for a year after going through a 10 month full time technical training program. I can Stick, MIG, TIG, Oxy/fuel and Flux core weld. I have an old miller stick/generator, a new Miller 252 Mig. Hope to buy a Tig later this year. I will be setting up a small bronze foundry this year to cast bronze sculptures. Just made and installed a large sculptural bike rack. It is an 8' l x 4' t x 6 ' w 3/16" plate, galvanized, blue powdercoated blue spider. It was installed at the Spokane, WA Performing Arts Center on Monday. I will attache a photo later today, seperate from this post. Hope to do some plasma cutting soon for 50' x 9' series of ornamental gates and fence for my garden. I will let the forum know how the suggestions Mark gave me work once I get to that project. I will use a combination of various thickness mild steel, some 3/16" plate, 1/2" rebar, 1" and 1 1/2" square stock, 1/2 round, some 1" pipe...and mixed media as well...some glass, brass and copper. This is a winter project for me so won't be done quickly. Any how will attach a photo of spider later.
betty g.
Here is photo of spider, I used my cut 60 to cut the 3/16" plate. Hope photo shows up...I will check and if it does not will try to attach again later.