I would like to know how to check and adjust points on my welder? Can someone point to adjustment procedure? SN# is 155704099. I want to make sure these are set correctly. Thanks ahead,Skeeter
Printable View
I would like to know how to check and adjust points on my welder? Can someone point to adjustment procedure? SN# is 155704099. I want to make sure these are set correctly. Thanks ahead,Skeeter
To elaborate it a little further I am usung a ck torch,no switch,ssc pedal. Weld 1/8 steel. Wire wheeled and wiped down.Welder set as in photo. All was going well and stopped for a few minutes. Went at it again and amps seemed low. Looked at display with arc struck and it showed 46 amps. Was using foot pedal. I had to stop but went at it again a few days later and welder worked fine. Then stopped for a few and went back with no amps at all. Display did not change this time. Using about 7-1/2 lpm on argon. Checked all connectiions. Checked ground. Ground clamp was attached at wire wheeled spot on work. Seems like something intermittent. I want to insure points are right. I do not know where they are located or what the correct setting is. I know how to set points. I am using a Everlast cooler with RV coolant. Welds shown are test welds.
did you dip your tungsten...your welds look a little contaimanatiated...what size and type of tungsten are you using ?are you sharpening your tungsten properly?
For TIG, you really need to grind off all that mill scale until you have bright metal. Wire wheeling won't usually remove it. That scale will plate your tungsten with a lot of contamination. The points are only for the HF start and won't have any change in welding amps or the display. The points gap is around .030". If you want to check them, call support for a walkthrough in how to access them. However, you can also switch to lift arc start and try that. If you are still having problems, it's not the points. I suspect that most of your issues is from that mill scale. It can act as an insulator both where you are welding and where the ground clamp is. Can't see where you have postflow, but make sure it is about 10 seconds or so. The rest of the green knobs can be set to minimum settings for use with the pedal.
I agree with Rambozo. Use a 40 or 60 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder to remove the mill scale or buy cold rolled steel which doesn't have mill scale. It's a little stronger and cost a little more but saves prep time when tig welding.
The piece shown is a crap scrap piece I was playing with. The grinder with the flap disk is actually sitting on the weld table. The work I am doing is 3/4 x3/4 square tubing 1/8 th wall. It is hit with a wire wheel and then a flap disk where the weld ing is done. Plus I wipe it down with acetone. I occasionally dip the tungsten but keep 4 or 5 handy to swap out as needed. 3/32 tungsten but can't remember type. It is the Type suggested here though so it is right. Sharpened on a dedicated grinder. I just did about 80 inches of welding the 3/4 square but that is ground down smooth afterwards before powdercoating. I just wanted to know how to check and what to set the points to if needed.
If it has points, .032-..040 works. closer to .032 usually makes easier arc start. .035 is kinda the sweet spot on mine. Put .032 paper between,closed up, turn open till paper falls out,lock them down.
If you do not have a feeler gauge, I used to tell people use a credit card, set it where the card will move a little and also slide out. Not humidity will effect it a little. Clean metal is a must for nice looking TIG. Also, make sure the amps are a little more that on need if using a foot petal. You can go up and down as you go.
Thank you Mike and all that replied. .032 to .040 ,closer to to .032 is what I will look for. Next question is where are they (points) located in the machine? I will strive for cleaner work as well. Even when just playing around. I appreciate any and all tips and will use them. I am more or less happy with my progress but there is a lot to being " skilled" in tig. I am gratefull to those that take the time to help people out.
Looking at the front grill of the machine, the points are roughly behind the 10 o'clock position. If you look through the grill when you press the pedal you'll see the points arc and hear the buzz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter
Unplug the machine and wait at least 15 minutes. The cover comes off by removing the rear and side screws. Do not remove any screws from the front panel. When replacing screws be careful not to over tighten.
Depending on the build date you might have the threaded rod type points previously described, or flat points that you will bend to adjust. If you search this forum, you can find pictures of both types.
I did search but for the life of me had 0 luck finding much info much less pictures.
Old style HF board with flat points. Not your exact machine, but very similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...5619#post55619
My machine is from Jan/2013. I read that link and thank you. I will check them and make sure they are right. Thanks guys!
Sounds like a bad foot pedal to me or one that slipped a few cogs. Though they are spot on about the wire wheel. You clearly have mill scale left where you are trying to weld. If you don't see grinding marks, you've only polished the mill scale and not removed it.
Hi Mark, I am using the ssc pedal anf I also thought this may be a contributor to the problem. I did some checking though and so far the pedal checks out as far as Ohms with me getting 0 to 50k and 50k to 0. I pulled the machine out of the cart and removed the cover. I found the points at about .042. I cleaned then up and reset to .032. I ran out of time though. I took the oportunity to blow out the machine and clean the fan. I also pulled the cooler and cleaned out the tank and blew it out as well. The cooler tank had a little black sludge on the bottom but otherwise was clean and did not stink. Not much dust in either the cooler or welder. I will try it out hopefully in the next few days.
I don't think it would be the foot pedal then. Something else.