cooler terminal plug on 325ext??

I have a 325ext with the 220v outlet in the back for a cooler. I'm building my own cooler and have no idea how to plug into that outlet as it's the reverse of what a computer monitor plug would go in. My thought all along was to snag a cord, chop the end and wire it up, but it's a female/female issue. Can I wire directly to whatever is behind that outlet??

Also, my plan is to run wire from the outlet to a switch, and then to my carbonator pump motor. I had issues with the welder tripping a 50amp breaker when turned on (tech said it was an inrush of current) and don't want to make that issue worse with the pump cranking up every time the welder is powered up.

Try www.mouser.com They sell almost everything electrical. They should have the plug you need.

Umm, wow, I need an electrical education to sift through those thousands of parts. Nah, can't find anything with their search function since im not an electrical engineer.

The number for the plug is in the online manual in the parameter column.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1052-ND/569943

Another option is to just use a computer/monitor extension cable. Either locally at a good computer shop, or from online source. That way you get a nice molded plug and either make your cooler with the appropriate jack, or just cut off the end and wire it right to your cooler/switch. Amazon has a ton of options here is a link to them from 1 foot to 15 feet.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RRX

Also I understand your not wanting to trip a breaker, but having a cooler switch kinda defeats the purpose of having the cooler plugged into the welder. Sure they would go off together, but the big problem is forgetting to turn the cooler on, not forgetting to turn it off. That is a quick way to smoke a torch power cable in short order. I know for me it would just be a matter of time. I would try a new breaker. Nuisance tripping a 50 amp breaker doesn't seem right, even with inrush current. Breakers are made to handle short periods like that, but at the price they now sell them, I would bet that QC on them can't be very good, so try another new one and see if that helps.

You know, I was thinking...and it dawned on me what you are doing. Don't do it.
The outlet on the back of our machines is not designed for anything but our coolers. The wires running to the outlet are very small and designed for very light amperage draw of our coolers. Using something that draws more than a couple amps 220V can pose a real hazard. That is one reason we use the plug that we do, so people don't try to plug in something they shouldn't.

How many amps is safe? The motor I have is 2.5 amps at 220V. I actually did find a monitor extension cable, chopped the end off and completed the wiring. Tested everything and had no issues. Also, I have a lighted switch built onto the front of my welding cart, the process would be welder on, switch on- switch off, welder off. It's no more inconvenient than reaching around for the switch on the back of the machine.

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Originally Posted by WhitsonMetal

How many amps is safe? The motor I have is 2.5 amps at 220V. I actually did find a monitor extension cable, chopped the end off and completed the wiring. Tested everything and had no issues.

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From the Everlast Power Cool W300 page:
Specifications

Input Amps: 1.1
Input Voltage: 240V
Input Frequency: 50/60Hz

So you would be over double the current. If you want to play it safe, you could use a relay to switch the cooler. As a bonus, you could use a time delay relay so it doesn't come on exactly when the welder starts, but slightly later.

Or I could just piggy back off of the main power cord. I don't want it hard wired, like a timed relay, since I won't always have wp20 torch connected. A 28ga wire will carry 3-3.5 amps and I'd hope it's at least 28ga wire in there, that's tiny.

Personally, I don't know the exact specs on the wire gauge, but it is tiny. You can certainly take a look to confirm size. IIRC correctly from what I remember, it is a metric gauge but is probably somewhere equivalent to 26 or 28 gauge or so. It's 6 inches long or just under if they haven't changed it.

I actually tried to pull that outlet out of there last night and the screws just turned and turned like captive fasteners weren't used. I was afraid whatever nut is on the back would fall down in the machine so I nixed that idea.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WhitsonMetal

Umm, wow, I need an electrical education to sift through those thousands of parts. Nah, can't find anything with their search function since im not an electrical engineer.

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Call them very helpful when one doesn't know what it is called but can explain.

Just remove the rear cover and the metal cover. It won't void warranty. In fact it should be removed every month or two to clean it out to KEEP your unit and its warranty in good order. Metal particles and dust have a tendency to build up and ruin things. No it isn't captive from what I remember.