My 256 AMP display is not working.

I'm having an issue with the display showing amps that are way off. Everything is working well except for the display. I know the dial position I need for a good weld, but the reading is way off from what it is. Showing amps anywhere from 20s to 700s depending on dial settings. I called x207 tech support but was told to send them the unit. I asked if there was any other option but was told that the issue I was having would require me to send it back and wait 6-8 weeks. I know that the tipsntricks guy was given good tech advice and fixed his starting issue by setting his gap at .030". You seem to have a similar issue to mine and it sounds like you got a chip in the mail? I don't know if my chips are socketed or not, but I have tweezers with different blades and have removed thousands of SMT chips. I don't understand why I can't get the same kind of tech help- I'd need a new machine if I have to send mine out. I can take whatever readings I need to and fix whatever the problem is. Who do I need to call to get a higher level of tech support? Tell me what to do and I'll do it- no need to send a 60lb machine off for 2 months when I can take care of it on my end. I even offered to take a video, but was told it wouldn't help. I can dust off the old emp20 and get reads on chips or run whatever diagnotics that would be done 2000miles away in CA, but I need to get another welder/plasma cutter if I have to send my 256 away for 6-8weeks.

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Originally Posted by jim wilson

I'm having an issue with the display showing amps that are way off. Everything is working well except for the display. I know the dial position I need for a good weld, but the reading is way off from what it is. Showing amps anywhere from 20s to 700s depending on dial settings. I called x207 tech support but was told to send them the unit. I asked if there was any other option but was told that the issue I was having would require me to send it back and wait 6-8 weeks. I know that the tipsntricks guy was given good tech advice and fixed his starting issue by setting his gap at .030". You seem to have a similar issue to mine and it sounds like you got a chip in the mail? I don't know if my chips are socketed or not, but I have tweezers with different blades and have removed thousands of SMT chips. I don't understand why I can't get the same kind of tech help- I'd need a new machine if I have to send mine out. I can take whatever readings I need to and fix whatever the problem is. Who do I need to call to get a higher level of tech support? Tell me what to do and I'll do it- no need to send a 60lb machine off for 2 months when I can take care of it on my end. I even offered to take a video, but was told it wouldn't help. I can dust off the old emp20 and get reads on chips or run whatever diagnotics that would be done 2000miles away in CA, but I need to get another welder/plasma cutter if I have to send my 256 away for 6-8weeks.

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first, start a new thread. the title of this thread has nothing to do with your issue. second, if you think what I did in this thread will fix yours, read the whole thread, and do the fixes I listed in here.

heres a picture showing the chip I replaced, the extra bypass cap that was added, and the two diodes that got replaced.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...psovc4vfvn.jpg

Your problem's not the same. You need to talk to Ray and he can help you. But if the unit it welding fine and the display is messed up, you are on the wrong track.

If the 4053 died you would probably have wide open AMP/foot pedal all the way down. No control of the AMPs at all.

Just a follow up- machine still working perfectly and I'm very happy. If I had to do it over I'd still buy this exact same machine even though the display is still reading way off. I simply think in terms of percentage when I set the amps and knowing plasma is 5-60, I know that 12 o'clock is right about 32.5 amps. I'm hoping someone will have the same issue one day and there will be a simple solution, but it doesn't matter as far as operating perfectly. I like to see the real number because it can indicate if I have another setting that I don't want like pulse or something, but as long as I look over all the settings and I set it right, it works perfectly and has since I purchased it a year ago. Edit: btw, thanks for starting the new thread for me with the relevant title. If there are any readings I could 5ake that might allow someone to fix this little annoyance, I'd be happy to.

First thing I would do is tear it apart and inspect everything. 9 times out of 10 it is something related to shipping. Re-seat all the connectors and make sure there are no pins that are working their way out the back of the connector. Give it a good visual inspection and test anything that looks suspect. Remember these have been in a shipping container that might have been dropped a few feet. You see all kinds of crazy things down at the docks. It's best to find out just what the problem is before deciding that you can ignore it. While it might be something that is only related to the display, it could be something that will eventually cause other failures, like a bad supply regulator or something. If you have the skills to diagnose this to the component level, you will find it's not hard to get data sheets for just about everything in them. That is a big advantage in using standard parts. Makes for easy repairs and pretty easy to understand circuits.

Thanks. Just figured I'd check back and see if anyone else had this happen. Still workin g great, just displays the wrong number. When I opened 2 years ago, there didn't seem to be anything out of place and all seemed tight, and the reading was correct. Got it back together and display was off again. Opened back up and it worked, but I couldn't see anything that was off. Put it back and it was just for again. I gave up. My soldering Iron doesn't display temp or watts and either does my cousins Lincoln $200 225AC stick welder from 1985. So, no need to fix, but I'm thinking of selling it and I would kind of like to have it working if there is an easy fix.

You likely have a wire running too close to the display board.

I've been having this problem too. The Amp display is all over the place, but can still stick weld without any problems. I found that there was a blown capacitor sitting behind the points, and have sent my unit back for repairs. I'll post whether or not Everlast comes through on their warranty in about 30 days.

They'll make good on the warranty. Why wouldn't they?