How much smaller is the CK130 -vs- 150?

So, with the return of some warmer weather, I've completed the welding on my big project (Alum Fireworks pods) and want to move to a smaller air-cooled for my PP256. I've loved the 250A CK SF WC FlexHead for this and am looking at a SF FlexLoc in a 130 or 150 but I'm also thinking smaller is better.

Is the 130 enough smaller to justify the 20A loss of the 150? If they're about the same physically (they both use the Series 2 consumables - right?) then I would want the extra Amps.

I know lots of you guys have one or the other (or both), wondering which I should chose... ;)

http://www.ckworldwide.com/torch_dim.pdf

The 130 is a 9 style and the 150 is a 17 style. There is about a 1.5" difference in length between the heads with a regular collet body cup. If you look at the flexloc series, there is a similar ~1.5" length difference between the 2 head and the 3 head.

Attachment 11887

I believe the difference is three quarters of an inch. that difference, I was told yesterday, is due to the addition of the gas valve apparatus. I was told the 2F and 3F are identical with the exception of the head, the two being smaller. the reason I contacted them is due to the fact that the CK150 I ordered through weldfabulous heats up rapidly. the cable that came with it (black rubber) is cheap compared to the cable that came with my WP17 setup. I never use mine, my weldcraft is the go to torch.

I emailed ck and described what was going on and they sent me another head, a 3F. I was thinking that maybe the torch I had had the 2F head but it didn't, the heads are identical. yesterday when I had the rep on the phone and was describing what was taking place i gave him my amp settings and told him what the argon CFH was set at for the torch and he quickly informed me, somewhat condescendingly that it is an air cooled torch....whatever.

anyway, i am going on the road soon and i will be taking the weldcraft with me, not the ck. i will probably buy another power cord, weldcraft, and the Part FLAF which will allow me to connect the WC cable to the CK head. finding out about that connector was like pulling teeth from the guy on the phone and he couldn't tell me where to get one. I will try this because I would not want to stick someone with this torch on ebay or CL as is it is now.

frankly this is not a necessary item and I doubt i'd buy from them again.

I am including a picture taken after a couple of minutes welding at 135 amps. first time I shot it with the heat gun it was 157F I missed with the camera the first time, shot again and got the 147 reading.

Zank - very useful chart - Thx

So there really isn't a difference, except it the head (the part that "pivots") and ones a 9 and the larger is a 17 so, since I've invested in the Arczone Gas Saver Kit (and gotten really used to that Pyrex stuff) and all those "front" parts aren't going to thread into to a 9 head - right?

fdcmiami - I wouldn't want a gas valve though, and you're unhappy with the hose? Is it not the SuperFlex? I thought those were Red...
It's nice to know I could just add the 9 head someday, don't know if I'd ever really need that but, good option. This is the "2F & 3F" you're referring to? Those are the pivoting heads?

I think I am prepared to have the torch get hot, being air cooled, but not sure whether those numbers are going to be uncomfortable with my gloved hand. I use a thicker glove on the Torch hand than the rod hand (it's so much closer to the "action" ;)). This 147degrees gets uncomfortable with the heat from the head alone? Is this like a thin Tilman type?

if this is your only torch I would get one with a valve. having the valve will give you a degree of portability that you may require some day; or maybe not. the power cable

for the torch is much lighter than the Weldcraft WP17 and the cover/insulator is very thin, much thinner than it needs to be. I am sure that's why it heats up so quickly. if

you feel you need the SF hose by all means get it; that hose seems to be most popular with new users.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blaster

So there really isn't a difference, except it the head (the part that "pivots") and ones a 9 and the larger is a 17 so, since I've invested in the Arczone Gas Saver Kit (and gotten really used to that Pyrex stuff) and all those "front" parts aren't going to thread into to a 9 head - right?

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Correct.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blaster

It's nice to know I could just add the 9 head someday, don't know if I'd ever really need that but, good option. This is the "2F & 3F" you're referring to? Those are the pivoting heads?

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Yes. 2F head ("Series 2") = #9; 3F ("Series 3") = #17

I see I've made a mistake though,,, my torch is a Series2 (20) Not 17. So my "kit" is for the 20. BUT, the smallest torch I have is a cheap 9V (I assume because it has a Valve) and those parts (collet body & nozzles ) are too large to thread into it.

I guess what it comes down to is, I need the new torch to be able to use the consumables I now use so - that's the 130 - right?

But, to be clear, 20 and 9 front-end parts are supposed to be different or the same? Is that for CK or do I just have an odd-ball #9?

9 and 20 are the same. Sounds like you have an odd ball 9.

And yes, the 130 would be your choice if you have 2 series parts.

OK, Thx Again

I don't know who came-up with the system that has a sm torch a "9", and a "17" bigger than a "20" but, it Sucks...;)

That would be union carbide :)

this is an update on my comments about my CK flex loc tig torch. I emailed CK and asked if they would provide me with the part FLAF so that I could convert my WP-17 power cable to be used on my FL3 torch body.

I dealt with Jeffrey k in customer service. told him about my problem. he said they would ship me the part but would I mind shipping him the cable. even though I was expecting nothing more than the part I sent it to them. I figured why not, I was going to have to pay someone shipping and wait for the part anyway so might as well do business direct.

Attachment 11973

I had also, purchased on amazon, another CK1512 flex loc with valve to be setup with a quick connect for field use only. a situation where I was using scratch start. or I could run it off my inverter with a hundred feet of argon line. whatever.

so I sent them the cable and at almost the same time they received mine I received theirs and in the box was a new 25' super flex power cable. I put it on the torch welded with it and it worked great, no over heating. hot after a while but not an issue.

they did not have to do this, they did not sell me the original. it was a total surprise and I am grateful. the new one will be a dedicated torch for my units with solenoids, since the torch has no gas valve and the 12 footer will be for those situations where I might need to run out some cable. the twelve foot one can be used on an inverter as well.

one happy camper here. thanks CK.

PS. like I mentioned earlier if you are going to get one torch get one with a valve. you never know, I have blown out solenoids (actually just once) in the field. with the valve you can always work around the machine by running directly off the bottle. could save your axx.