CK Rotary Amperage Control with Powertig 250ex

I bought the hand amp control knowing that the pot was 10k and that it wasn't going to work with my machine. I was going to solder in a 50k pot, but I decided to try it first. I don't know how or why but it works with my machine. I am giving the heads up to everyone with a 50k pot that the part number I'm gonna write works great. However the max amps on the machine in limited to 230 and you lose 5 amps. So if you set 130 you will get 125. So really the max amps is 225. I can live with that though since I rarely go over 180. I was pissed I couldn't find a hand amperage for an everlast so I was gonna mod it but I'm happy enough with the way it works. I don't know how the machine works with the 10k pot but I guess I should be happy it does. Even the CK tech said it would only work with the digital models.

Part number RACCV-10-1-LG7

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I got one for my 250EX and your right it only went to 230A but the bottom end was OK I put it on my new 255EXT and it works the complete range 3-250 DC and 5-250 AC. I got the slide amperage controller I have been using them for 25 years on my old Hobart 250 and on the old Miller they are long gone now the 400lbs are now take over by the 250EX and 255EXT. I like them in place where you have a hard time using a pedal like on your back or inside a boat or welding places you need your feet for balance you will like them CK is a nice controller.

Yeah I have a lot of CK stuff and it's all great. I have 2 flex loc torches an air cooled and water cooled model. It's nice you can just switch he heads from the 20 style they call model 2 and the 17 style they call model 3. Also I have the micro tig water cooled for up to 140 amps. That thing is so small you could weld a 1 1/2" pipe from the inside. I have the large gas saver and all there wedge collets. They just make great crap. There techs are helpful to. When I thought I was gonna have to mod the ham amp control I called them and he took pics of there pot and what I might have to do to mod it. Most places are like screw you use are crap as designed or your on your own. It turns out though there pot is very complicated. It has a level for the switch to turn the machine on that is incorporated into the slide pot. It would have been dam near impossible to solder it out and find a replacement with the same part. I have never found a linear slide pot switch that has a switch on it. You would think they would use a rotary on the rotary amp control but they use a slide.

The switch on my CK slide controller is at end or the first thing that switch on before the slide touches the pot.

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I think my P/N is AMTCV10-2-LG7

Check this thread out

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...erlast-Welders

Glenn

This is the pot in the rotary amp control. The silver bar you see is a contact switch. The black slide pushes up on the switch to kill the power. When you move the switch it closes the contact and starts the gas and power. I'm glad I didn't have to mod it because I have never seen one like this before. I would love to know how a 10k pot works on a 47k machine though. I wonder if the pedal that everlast uses gives 90% or so of the power from 1k to 10k ohms and then the last 10% from 10k to 47k. I expected the 10k pot to give me 1/5 of the amps I set. Instead it give me all but 5. It's weird though it 5 not mater what it's not proportional. It's 125 of 130 or 225 of 230. If it was only the 4% loss I have at 130 it should be a 9 amp loss at 230 but it's not. So I have not idea what the machine is up to but happy it works.Attachment 11688