Just Ordered the Duel Voltage Powertig 185 asking advice.

Just ordered the 2013 Powertig 185 Duel Voltage model with the New design Everlast Foot pedal, the new 17SR Torch and the deluxe consumables kit with the reg. Looking for advice on Tungsten to order. Gonna get a Tig Finger to go with my helmet and gloves. Argon tank from the local supplier and filling rod.

I am figuring 1/16" will work for most of it and then a few 3/32" I need to know what colors I guess. I have read that inverter welders need a different type than the old school type. Only TIG I have ever used. Just about ZERO TIG exp. though.

Thanks
Glenn in GA

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Originally Posted by Depdog

Just ordered the 2013 Powertig 185 Duel Voltage model with the New design Everlast Foot pedal, the new 17SR Torch and the deluxe consumables kit with the reg. Looking for advice on Tungsten to order. Gonna get a Tig Finger to go with my helmet and gloves. Argon tank from the local supplier and filling rod.

I am figuring 1/16" will work for most of it and then a few 3/32" I need to know what colors I guess. I have read that inverter welders need a different type than the old school type. Only TIG I have ever used. Just about ZERO TIG exp. though.

Thanks
Glenn in GA

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Congrats,

For a do everything tungsten, I would recommend 2% Lanthanated (Sky Blue color code), another that is easier to find is Thoriated (Red color code). Either would be fine. 3/32" will do just about everything, but if you do a lot of thin stuff, 1/16" is nice to have.

Welcome, Glenn, and congrats on the new machine! I am envious of the portability that the dual voltage TIG machines offer- a fine choice.

+1 on the 2% lanthanated that Rambozo mentions, it's a good all-around choice. Inverters are different from old school welders in that inverters cannot use pure tungsten. I've had good experience ordering tungsten at WeldingCity.com.

If you're new to TIG- have you seen the videos at WeldingTipsAndTricks.com? Probably you have, since you know about TIG Finger.

Let us know how the new machine goes!

I agree. I don't really see much need for the small diameter tungsten, even though I have .040, 1/16, and 3/32. I tried teh smaller stuff, but have since just kept the 3/32 in the torch for everything.

If you do try different sizes, you really just need the smaller collets, not really the collet body / holder.

Thanks very much for the replies. Looks like the 3/32 will be my main and just a few of the 1/16". I will be wearing out google and Amazon for shopping for them tomorrow. Already got my sharpening system figured out. Cheap $10.00 diamond wheel from Harbor Freight use for sharpening saw blades. Put it in my 4.5" angle grinder mounted in a vice and use my cordless drill to spin the tungsten.

Again, thanks for all the input and I look forward to being able to contribute here.

Glenn

Can anyone that has the 2013 185 or used one, tell me how the amperage control works with the foot pedal.

I have read uses have both ways, and when we last talked Oleg was not positive.

If the foot pedal is attached, does it control from 0 to 185 amps, or does the panel knob over ride and limit the max amps. Like if its set to 100, now the pedal is good from 0 to 100, or does the pedal just flat over ride and is always 0 to 185.

I have seen uses on Amazon or maybe here (so confusing because I have read in so many places before placing my order) say it both ways.

Thanks
Glenn

Attachment 11490Attachment 11491Ok, unit arrived today safe and sound. UPS did not break it. Packed very well in a sturdy box with foam inserts to protect the main unit. Everything else is inside another box.

New regulator is all brass and deff seems on par with the affordable regs at my local supply. New SR17 torch is nice and flexible. Has the switch attached at the bottom via some zip ties. Simple and works. Comes in a denim like zip up cover to keep from abrading the lines. It's 12' long and feels just as good as the Weldcraft 17 torch. New foot pedal is smaller, smoother and with the 2013 Powertig 185 it maxes out where the amperage knob is set. Great new feature on this model. I was told the older ones did not do this. That the pedal over road the knob.

Only thing broken is the buckle on the carry strap. No big deal.

Ground clamp is a nice medium duty model, din connectors fit tight and has thick high strand wire for the ground and torch.

The only hickup in setting it up was the clamp to hold the argon hose to the barbed fitting on the regulator. It came with a standard hose clamp and I could not get it to stop leaking. I swapped it out for a fuel injection clamp and that stopped the leak. Plugged the 110 adapter into the 220 pigtail, plugged that in the wall and powered it up. Unit went through a power up and power check sequence, it realized it was powered by 110 and set itself. Max amps shown on my unit on 110 was 130.

Test and inspection stickers on the back of the top cover.

Set the argon at 5 liters per min or hour whatever is on the reg. Set the amps at 80 and buzzed my first tig bead on 1/4" angle iron scrap. Used 1/16" filler rod.

Nice to see your successful setup and first weld. That new style regulator looks like a copy of a TIGmaster, right down to the square flowmeter. Does it have different graduations on each side?

I'm pretty sure it's the same LPM on all 4 sides. I'll check it when I get home and let you know.

Glenn

Look more like the HTP Argon reg.

Glenn

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Originally Posted by DaveO

+1 on the 2% lanthanated that Rambozo mentions, it's a good all-around choice. Inverters are different from old school welders in that inverters cannot use pure tungsten.

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Hi, Dave. Can you expand on the bit about pure tungsten electrodes? The LWS set me up with thoriated for steel and pure tungsten for aluminum... Sounds like I need to swap them?

Here's two informed sources recommending against pure tungsten in inverter machines:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ten-Selection/
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...deo-clips.html

Jody at WT&T did a test on tungsten types and found that 2% lanthanated works well on both steel and aluminum. It sounds like pure tungsten in an inverter causes poor arc starts- so yes, I'd exchange them. Your LWS may have assumed you have a transformer type machine, in which case that would have been a fine choice.

Whenever a LWS recommends pure tungsten, even in an inverter, THAT's when I recommend them find a NEW LWS. At this point as long as inverters have been out and the proliferation of them in the market, there's no excuse in that kind of technical ignorance...and it makes you wonder if they are trying to pawn off an inventory excess and stick customers with something, or are trying to prove a point with a customer that did not buy the welder from them. Anyway you look at it, It's time for a new LWS to enter the picture.

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Originally Posted by performance

Whenever a LWS recommends pure tungsten, even in an inverter, THAT's when I recommend them find a NEW LWS.

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Duly noted. I'll get the electrodes swapped.

Adding to the confusion, I'll refer you to the electrode selector chart on page 22 of the manual that just shipped with my 210EXT - it lists Pure Tungsten, Zirconiated, and 2% Thoriated as equal options for general purpose use on aluminum. Sounds like that might need updating?

Cheers,
Richard

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Originally Posted by DaveO

Jody at WT&T did a test on tungsten types and found that 2% lanthanated works well on both steel and aluminum.

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I've noticed that Jody seems to use 2% lanthanated for just about everything, and he certainly seems to know what he's doing. I enjoy his videos - very practical, low BS. In fact, I discovered Everlast when he demo'd a pre-production 210EXT unit, and I'm surely not the first.

Cheers,
Richard

Went down and looked at the regulator again. Front has graduations for Argon, right side for co2. Both in LPH

Glenn