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whats the best way to plumb in the air dryer right after the fliter/reg thats on back of the powerultra205p
iam thinking of hard plumbing from filter to air dryer and a ball valve on so i can use argon or air
so filter valve then tee one side down to air inlet one side a valve from the gas
someone posted a pic of theres a month back looked nice and clean he had both air and argon going though the dryer
This is the way I did it on the 256 but the argon never goes through the dryer. The QC connects directly to the flowmeter line. Attachment 10011Attachment 10012
I cut a cheap 10' 1/4" air hose to make this. It all works perfectly and never gave a problem.
where does the drying go ? i might be missing it in pic
Attachment 10013
is this a good idea ?
I have a motor guard filter on my supply line. I suggest the M-60 kit or M100 kit since they come with 3 filters and side inlet/outlet http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com...it_p_9417.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by travis
Looks ok to me but I prefer the quick couplings since there's no way to get it wrong. Whatever works and suits you will be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by travis
That looks fine. Filtering the gas will not hurt anything. Changing the filter might be a little work, gut all worth it. Moisture really does miss up the cuts and does no help welding either.Quote:
Originally Posted by travis
Was there a reason you did not go with the ball valves? FYI, I had trouble with 1/4" NPT quick connects leaking years ago, and have it all clamped, I loose no gas that way, esp on the couple 150s I still have.
that picture was taken off a post on the forum i will use ball vaulves
would there be a best type of pipe to use or any to stay away from ....brass copper black pipe or gavlvinized ?
Ok on the first two, stay away from the last two. Black pipe = rust, galvanized can shed zinc particles. You can also get a nice three way ball valve so you don't have worry about mixing things up.Quote:
Originally Posted by travis
Ideally, the added filter will come before the water trap/filter on the rear of the unit...not after.
so air dryer then filter then inlet to plasma cutter ?
Compressor, filter, trap, cutter. When you see water in the trap time for a new filter. Or get the ones that change from blue to pink, cheap, easy to use, disposable (or reusable).
I found a good source for three way ball valves, and the plastic one is compact, and rated to 125PSI. http://www.mcmaster.com/#three-way-ball-valves/=mmr3r2.
Ordered one, and plan to plumb it in off the input port with one leg to a Argon Regulator, and the other through a dryer to the output of the regulator/separator. I have a couple of the smaller Motorguard disposables, and will just use barbs and clamps to avoid leaks.
Here is the link to the McMaster site and specific parts (I went with the barbed version, to accomodate various tubing diameter subtle differences. I bought two, one for the Power Pro, to switch from compressed air for Plasma, to Argon for ITG, and one for my mig to switch ArCO2 over to pure Argon, for use with Aluminum TIG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Paulie
http://www.mcmaster.com/#three-way-ball-valves/=mmsddd
Here's how I got mine setup: compressor, cheap oil/water separator with quick connects to also use on other air tools, motorguard filter, trap that came with cutter and pressure regulator then into cutter.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
If you are going to get a motorguard filter, get the M100 kit. It has 1/2" ports, where as the M60 has 1/4 or 3/8" ports.
Yep, that's perfect. Or how I have mine and it works great, even do lite painting with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry