Pedal switch

I have an Everlast 250 EX and I prefer to use a foot control when welding. (Foot pedal is a pleonasm, pedes meaning foot in greek. Who has ever heard of a hand pedal?)
Anyway, there's an excellent tacking timer on the 250, but I got bored changing the plugs all the time between the pedal and the handle switch. So I got a couple of extra plugs and sockets from Everlast and made a little box for them. This makes it a lot easier to tack something together, weld a bit, tack the next thing on and so on and so forth.
I couldn't find a toggleswitch, so I just put in two I/O switches instead.

Cheers

Attachment 9905

Which lines are you switching? I'm sure that saves a lot of time, and wear and tear on the plugs. I love to see modifications.

I would think that you could probably build your box so that pressing the handle switch cuts out the pedal so you wouldn't even need to flip any switches between tacking and welding.

Uuuhhmm I'll have to get back to you on this one. I may have jumped the gun when posting.:( I did test it, but I've just realized that it doesn't work quite as intended. I think I know what I forgot though.
Your idea of an "automatic" switch or override, when pressing the handle switch is very interesting. I does, however, call for a relay inside the box, which, when pressing the handle switch, shorts the pins 6-7 (ID pins) thus telling the unit to disregard pins 3-4-5 which controls the amperage. This is the part I forgot. I just intend to use a switch for it. A relay is a great idea, maybe I'll see if I can get it to work.
I'll try and get it right an post the steps taken later.

Cheers

That's why I was asking, since there really isn't any supplied info. I know that 6-7 shorted tells the machine that a pedal is installed, but it might not have that straight forward control of the lines to the pot. The panel control does still have function when the pedal is installed, but it only sets the max, so the pedal pot might be simply put in series with the panel control for pedal operation. Since the pedal would be unplugged they might not disconnect all the pot lines and have simply bypassed around some of them. This could cause issues if left in circuit by your switch. It will take a little reverse engineering to figure out just what is going on. A relay might be needed or you might do it with solid state. It really sounds like a neat feature and reminds me of the kind of control I used to have with my old Miller where I could switch either the amperage or contactor between remote and panel, and there was one plug for each, so you could mix and match between foot and hand controls, or none. Being able to just hit the torch switch and have the pedal cut out sounds like the way to go.

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

shorts the pins 6-7 (ID pins) thus telling the unit to disregard pins 3-4-5 which controls the amperage.

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A 6-7 short and the unit WILL use 3-4-5 (4 being the center/common on the pot) to control the output amps.

I have been going through the directions I got from Mike a while back, and as he has just commented, a short between pins 6 and 7 WILL make the machine respond to the pedal.
This is done inside the plug from the pedal. On the sockets on my box pins 6 and 7 are not connected to anything, not to each other either. I have added a lead from pins 6 and 7 in the plug that goes into the machine, and connected them to a switch on the box. This way I can open or close the connection between them an decide if the amperage should be variable or not. This also makes for the possibility of using the pedal for tacking, should that ever come in handy (get that? pedal - handy;) ) as it will deliver full power, as adjusted on the machine, at a mere touch.
The second switch is just for switching off the torch switch, but is actually superflous. Mission accomplished!

I did not test Rambozo's idea of using a relay, as I didn't have one lying around. I didn't want to buy one just to test it, 'cause my box is too small for it to fit in there anyway. A headlamp relay from a car should do the job I think.
Mike - any thoughts?

Suggestion: If the Spot function were to override the short between pins 6 and 7, you could at least tack with the pedal without any other gimmicks.:cool:

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

I did not test Rambozo's idea of using a relay, as I didn't have one lying around. I didn't want to buy one just to test it, 'cause my box is too small for it to fit in there anyway. A headlamp relay from a car should do the job I think.
Mike - any thoughts?

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You might find a relay at Radio Shack, if they have them in Denmark. I get mine from mpja.com, online surplus place. What voltage is the box putting out (and current, the car relay might be a little bigger than needed). I have tons of relays, even solid-state AC and DC.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

What voltage is the box putting out

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Uuhh you tell me. My box is passive. My understanding of Rambozo's idea was to let the current over pins 1 and 2 activate the relay to open the connection between 5 and 6, when using the torch switch. I have measured it at about 14V, which a car relay should easily cope with, and, as you say, it can handle way more current.
We don't have Radio Shack, but of course we have other online vendors, however, shippingcosts will double the price and you might be able to get a car relay at the local garage.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

Uuhh you tell me. My box is passive. My understanding of Rambozo's idea was to let the current over pins 1 and 2 activate the relay to open the connection between 5 and 6, when using the torch switch. I have measured it at about 14V, which a car relay should easily cope with, and, as you say, it can handle way more current.
We don't have Radio Shack, but of course we have other online vendors, however, shippingcosts will double the price and you might be able to get a car relay at the local garage.
Cheers

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Not quite sure what you are trying to do. Can you re-cap or draw a picture? You can always add a small transformer is needed. What is the relay to control? pins 1-2, the trigger?

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Not quite sure what you are trying to do. Can you re-cap or draw a picture? You can always add a small transformer is needed. What is the relay to control? pins 1-2, the trigger?

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Pins 1-2 are connected by pressing the torch switch. Putting a relay in series with the switch and making it break the connection between pins 6-7 when activated, should make the machine disregard the pot on the pedal control.
Obviously the 1-2 leads from the pedal must bypass the relay or you will loose all regulation possibilities.
This way, when you activate the torch switch, the machine will only see the I/O switch, not the pot. You will of course loose the possibility of tacking with the pedal, but that would be a small sacrifice.
Drawing diagrams is not my strong side, so I hope this will do.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

Pins 1-2 are connected by pressing the torch switch. Putting a relay in series with the switch and making it break the connection between pins 6-7 when activated, should make the machine disregard the pot on the pedal control.
Obviously the 1-2 leads from the pedal must bypass the relay or you will loose all regulation possibilities.
This way, when you activate the torch switch, the machine will only see the I/O switch, not the pot. You will of course loose the possibility of tacking with the pedal, but that would be a small sacrifice.
Drawing diagrams is not my strong side, so I hope this will do.

Cheers

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So you want to use the pedal as just the trigger for spot. One idea and cheap, put a magnetic reed switching inside the machine across 6-7 and stick a magnet on the front outside to open and close it. All welders should have magnets stuck all over :D That would be simple, no power required. Can get them at all kinds of places too. Maybe the hardware store or alarm shop.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

One idea and cheap, put a magnetic reed switching inside the machine across 6-7 and stick a magnet on the front outside to open and close it.

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That's a novel idea, but wouldn't it violate the warranty if you start rummaging in the innards of the cabinet?
If some day you pedal doesn't work, maybe it's because someone stuck a holiday postcard on your welder with a magnet ;)
- and it doesn't let you switch easily between torch switch and pedal.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

That's a novel idea, but wouldn't it violate the warranty if you start rummaging in the innards of the cabinet?
If some day you pedal doesn't work, maybe it's because someone stuck a holiday postcard on your welder with a magnet ;)
- and it doesn't let you switch easily between torch switch and pedal.

Cheers

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You didn't ask about the warranty. Then you need to put it a switch on the outside and cut into the connector and void that one. Not sure what the relay is for. Why not buy a new 7 pin plug and just not use 6-7 or add a switch.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Why not buy a new 7 pin plug and just not use 6-7 or add a switch.

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That is exactly what I have done, only I bought two so I could switch between pedal an torch control without having to change plugs.;)

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Not sure what the relay is for.

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Switching off the pot automatically when using the torch switch:cool:

Cheers

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Originally Posted by WikingWelder

That is exactly what I have done, only I bought two so I could switch between pedal an torch control without having to change plugs.;)

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This is the better way, you have two on the pedal and just plug in the one you need.

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Switching off the pot automatically when using the torch switch:cool:

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Ahh. I think the previous way is better, less change of damaging the unit.