looks to me like tig welding is sort of like brazing only with a arc not a torch i was pretty good at brazing it was fun way to weld
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looks to me like tig welding is sort of like brazing only with a arc not a torch i was pretty good at brazing it was fun way to weld
TIG welding is very much like oxy-fuel welding, not brazing. However, you can also braze with a TIG torch, you just use silicon bronze or aluminum bronze bare rod and no flux is needed because you have shielding gas. The quick and dirty difference between brazing and welding, is that in welding, you need to melt the base metal and let the filler mix in with it, while brazing bonds to the surface and isn't diluted into the base metal, because the temperature is below the melting point of the base metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by travis
thanks for the update tig still looks fun cant wait to try it
Tig welding is a lot like gas welding but with an electric torch that gives instant on and off heat. One thing about all arc (electric) welding Tig, Mig and Stick, is that the further the arc the more power is required and the more heat is generated to make the jump so in gas welding the closer you are with the inner cone of the flame is the most heat further you are away the less heat in arc welding it the opposite so if you pull the arc away it makes more heat, it is better to turn down the arc amps then pulling away if you were a gas welder it take time to get the hang of it. So keeping the arc as close to the puddle without touching it is the hard part takes practice and a steady hand.
and tig is good looking weld and will do ok welding1/4 to 3/8 inch steel ?
I assume you are asking about the capability to weld 1/4" to 3/8" steel with Tig?Quote:
Originally Posted by travis
sure, pretty much any hand held welding process can be used for welding 1/4" to 3/8" steel. GMAW ("Mig") is likely better suited for a large amount of heavy gauge work, unless GTAW ("Tig") is required or is all that you have available.
For the most part, Tig is a much slower welding process as compared to Stick (SMAW) Mig or Flux Core welding, especially with heavier gauge materials.
i have a 110 wire welder and iam looking at a everlast powerultra 205 will teach my self to tig stick and plasma in the next few months
So, I have not done any brazing before............ How strong is the bond? And why would you use it instead of Tig? (just for my info)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Brazing is often done with tubing applications or other uses in plumbing or heat exchanger fabrication / manufacture. Brazing doesn't melt or otherwise change the shape of the base materials. It can be done on multiple areas at the same tine, even in accessible interior areas when done in a furnace.Quote:
Originally Posted by CGCINC
Radiators and other heat exchangers can be assembled with a brazing paste or thin braze strips, clamped into a fixture, and the whole assembly placed into an oven. Assembly is heated and the whole thing is bonded.
It can also he used for high strength or high hardness materials such as tool steel to join parts without compromising the base material properties nearly as much as with welding. Also used to attach carbide or other materials to tooling shanks or cutters.
A good brazing bond is very strong. A typical reason to braze is that it may allow less distortion of the workpiece than welding (due to e.g., not needing to inputs as much heat energy into the workpiece that is required when welding.)
Some brazing techniques also allow joining parts together that could not possibly be welded. For example, check out how intercooler (and other heat exchanger) cores are typically manufactured, using oven brazing. Oven brazing can allow joining together many intricate fins and tubes and plates that would be impossible to join with a welding process, due to many of those joints being inaccessible.
A typical reason why *not* to braze is that it may not be strong enough (especially if the part being joined undergoes heat cycles and/or elevated temperatures.) Various other reasons why the braze material properties may be objectionable, depending on the materials and application used.
Ask and you shall recieve! Thanks for th e info guys! :)
such a nice forum you can learn so much hereand for us really new guys its so helpfull
Another real common application of brazing is the buildup of broken cast iron parts that will need to be machined afterwards. You can fix some huge damage that way and the finished part will behave much like the original casting as there is little to no embrittlement at brazing temperatures. You do have to preheat the part and allow to cool slowly, but after you can machine the bronze and cast iron back to finished size and there is no hardened area near the repair line, like there is when welded. You can typically replace any features like threads, holes, and bearing bores, that may have been damaged. It's done all the time to fix spun bearings in cast iron parts. Bore out the damage, braze it up, then re-bore for the original bearing size.
Could you replace a broken stud boss on a cast iron head with brazing and would it last ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
I've done it several times. It is possibly not quite as strong as the original cast boss, but way stronger than any other type of weld repair. Sometime you can add a gusset or build up the size of the boss to compensate, too. The good thing about bronze is the it is more malleable so it can take the vibration without cracking. Usually I use oxy-fuel for that, but I have TIG brazed up a front wheel hub to repair a spun bearing for a friend, since it was an after hours project. The brake job from Hell!Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Keith Fenner at Turn Wright Machine has some extreme examples of brazing repairs on YouTube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportbike
So it is basically soldering at higher temps with bronze instead of tin/lead, or am I missing something more profound?Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
842°F (450°C)Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeard
Above is brazing, below is soldering.
It can be a wide variety of alloys. Silver alloys are often used, as well as pure copper for some things. Aluminum can also be brazed.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeard
And join dissimilar metals or unweldable metals.
One favourite technique is for when I need a very long drill bit. Simply silver "solder" a normal high speed steel twist drill bit onto the end of a piece of rod. It's strong enough that you can do stuff like that.
I put solder in quotes because it's really brazing; the metal has got to be pretty well glowing hot before the high silver content solders melt. Some manufacturers call it silver brazing wire, but a lot of people call it silver solder.
Pricey stuff though: you buy it by the troy oz. I originally got into it for bonding thermocouples. TIG does that better now most of the time.
The coolant channels one the space shuttle main engine's nozzle are brazed. They carry liquid hydrogen for a coolant. You can do some pretty useful stuff with brazing.