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ok its been about 7yrs since i used a tig and it was a 300 miller dynasty we did a lot of alum. ok now to my ?? i need to get a basic idea on how to set up my 205 for some steel tigging 1/8 mat to start with so i will be using the pedal till i get use to using it.what dials do i need to use other than dc/tig switch and amps?? i have downloaded the manual but dont see much for info??
oh ya i have the blue tungsten to
thanx
Ok here is something to get you started using the pedal:Quote:
Originally Posted by braveops
PULSE OFF (then none of the blue knobs will matter)
AMPS 150, ARC FORCE 1 (yellow knobs don't matter for DC), DC, 2T, TIG(HF)
PRE FLOW 1, POST FLOW 10, UP SLOPE 0, DOWN SLOPE 0, START AMPS 5, END AMPS 5
ARGON 6-7 lpm, 3/32" tungsten 2% lanthanated (blue) sharpened to a point.
That is a baseline for .125" wall steel. you will be using about 3/4 or a lil more on the pedal. If your pedal is the kind with the knob, then you will set the 150 on it instead of the panel control.
Rambozo gave you all the setting you need, other than maybe to make sure the torch in the positive or torch port. Make sure metal is clean and ground (work) clamp is connected.Quote:
Originally Posted by braveops
The manual has all the information on working the equipment as all our manuals do, it doesn't teach all the amps per thickness X type metal, how fast to move, what size nozzle/cup or make anyone a welder. Also, I would start with a 7 and go down once you are back in the groove..
All the parameters for welding are all over the web and in this forum as well, or just ask. Also, note, no to people weld quite the same (close on steel though), so what he gave you is a starting point (and close to perfect to be honest), but as you get to aluminum you will see it will just be a rough starting point..
In summary, the blues knobs are for pulse welding, so you can forget them for now as you are starting out on steel and not real thin. Yellow knobs are for aluminum, since you said steel, forget them as well. I myself would kill all the green knobs but post flow to start then you only have one main knob to deal with (amps).
Also, fire the trigger a couple times to purge air from the torch hose when you first fire up the machine and fill the line with argon before you get going on the first weld each session (since pre-flow is low, I leave it almost off too).
What size blue (2% lanthanated) electrodes are you using? 1/16" or 3/32" I hope.
sweet guys thanx. that should get me going enough in the right direction if i remember right i think they are 1/16". i got them from duncan @ everlast when i got my mach just have not been home long enough to use it yet other than the plasma.out of town work sucks some times when you want to do stuff at home.lol
Don't forget to edit your location in the profile when you get time. Duncan has quite the following. Didn't know he was selling the lanthanated. I myself switched out about 2 years ago. Have not looked back, though the 2% thoriated does last a little longer, the health risks are out the window.Quote:
Originally Posted by braveops
3/32" will cover most of what the 1/16" will and thicker, so might want to get a pack of those next. And when you get too aluminum, you will be glad you did.
Post up and let us see how things are going with the weld if they do not look right.
Once you get the settings Ram gave you working, aluminum is really just add the two yellow knobs. 25-30% on the balance/cleaning and 100-120Hz are a good start. Note they aluminum welding is normally a bit tougher as the pool does not really change color or brightness as well.
thanx guys that got me going i just need to get back in to it again.i had got the 3/32 2% not 1/16 tung. my lid kept on turning off on me and i only had 11,12,13 shade lenses around so it was tough to see lol
What's with the advice highlighted in red above in the quote? Isn't the tig torch ALWAYS NEGATIVE, DCSP/DCEN!!Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport