New Owner of PT 200DX

Hi guys,

My name is Arthur and I am from Vancouver, BC Canada.

I bought a 2013 PT 200DX from Oleg almost 2 weeks ago. New to TIG welding, been doing MIG for automotive stuff (hobby) but needed some more precision with thin aluminum so I jumped over to a TIG with good value.

I also bought a CK9 torch with 25' superflex hose and a CK gas saver kit with pyrex cup. Should be some fun.

Here are some pictures:

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905207/54f04aa.jpg

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905219/96be6f0.jpg

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905218/54f04aa.jpg

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905217/eacf7b9.jpg

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905225/f323231.jpg

http://just.razzi.me/photos/905224/34af6f0.jpg

Its a long shot but someone here may recognize my username from NASIOC (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club).

Here is my build thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2190223

It's a 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. Weekend track car. Makes just shy of 600 awhp on pump gas and meth injection.

Built entirely by me :) Hope to share some cool projects soon with this new TIG welder.

http://www.matt-kwok.com/blog/wp-con...k-maypr-17.jpg

You need to switch your work clamp torch connections, Torch should be on negative work clamp on positive.

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Originally Posted by cbmkr

switch your work clamp torch connections

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A lot of tungstens have been melted while learning this little fact- it's not intuitive. Welcome, Arthur! I'm sure you'll be at home talking about engines and now, TIG welding- there's a number of guys with the same interests here.

Welcome aboard. I am a member of NASIOC too. I joined there a few years back when I was turbo charging the 2.5 in my offroad Woods buggy. Graet site for all things Subie!

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Originally Posted by Odyknuck

Welcome aboard. I am a member of NASIOC too. I joined there a few years back when I was turbo charging the 2.5 in my offroad Woods buggy. Graet site for all things Subie!

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Welcome aboard. Very nice torch choice.

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Originally Posted by cbmkr

You need to switch your work clamp torch connections, Torch should be on negative work clamp on positive.

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Thanks for the heads up! Good thing I didn't have time to use it when I set it up that day or else I wouldn't be so happy right now :)

The TIG manual(s) clearly shows "clamp" in "+" or workpiece side. Even the bad one in the box.

Otherwise plan on burning up electrodes.

The manual is worth a quick pull from the website and a glance over. Starting to sound like Mark...

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Originally Posted by DaveO

A lot of tungstens have been melted while learning this little fact- it's not intuitive. Welcome, Arthur! I'm sure you'll be at home talking about engines and now, TIG welding- there's a number of guys with the same interests here.

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it does seem a little illogical. Electrons actually flow from negative poles to positive, not just in welding but everywhere. In a battery the electricity is actually "coming out" of the negative terminal.
It makes a little more sense to think of it like that with your welder, you want the energy to come out of the torch and go into the grounded work piece, so you put your torch in the negative side and your ground clamp in the positive side.

There are only rare occasions when you would want the electrode on the positive side of the machine. its so infrequent that my welder does not even have an easy way to switch to electrode positive (I have to open my box and swap the connections to the plugs).

Welcome ... I think you'll be really happy with your new unit ... I have a 200DX as well and I love it ... the guys are right for most applications you want electrode negative.

Welcome Arthur,

I bought the same unit a few weeks ago and so far really like it. I'm on the fence if I should get aother torch/what size.

There are some great folks on here!!

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Originally Posted by willida

Welcome Arthur,

I bought the same unit a few weeks ago and so far really like it. I'm on the fence if I should get aother torch/what size.

There are some great folks on here!!

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I would learn with that torch. Then anything you buy will only be better. After you learn, and decide you like TIG, then look at the WP20, CK and super flex hoses.

I still to this day have a WP18 on my 250EX and it has not prevented me from doing a job yet. And I do not have the stubby lens either, though I have thought about it (for better gas flow more than size as I have a WP20 for size issue if any).

Thanks Mike,

last night I pulled the hose cover back away from the torch handle, the flexability did help. Still feels "Heavy" but I hang the hose on the bench when I can and that does take away the "weight".

I also moved the switch further up the handle on the torch, that made my grip much more confortable. I am taking your advice and will learn with the WP 26, when funds come available, and I decide on what torch (the CK 9 or CK 130 amp). Isn't the WP 20 a water cooled torch? I don't have a cooler on my machine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by willida

Thanks Mike,

last night I pulled the hose cover back away from the torch handle, the flexability did help. Still feels "Heavy" but I hang the hose on the bench when I can and that does take away the "weight".

I also moved the switch further up the handle on the torch, that made my grip much more confortable. I am taking your advice and will learn with the WP 26, when funds come available, and I decide on what torch (the CK 9 or CK 130 amp). Isn't the WP 20 a water cooled torch? I don't have a cooler on my machine.

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The CK is a great torch. But the WP9/20 is not a bad option, except for the hose being stiff, BUT not as bad as the WP18 though. The WP20 is water cooled. And you can use city water pressure to cool it, so a cooler is not 100% required. I run my WP20 all the time with no water, under 100amps. I have ran 120 amps but do not recommend it.

CK is the way to go if you have the cash and do a lot of TIG welding. The WP20 is the way I went, and the WP20 compared to a MIG torch is nothing .

Finally did some welding the other day. 16 gauge 304. No filler. Literally only 10 minutes of tig time so far. Tried to play with the pulse but still a little too fast for me and I have to dial the amps down I think?

Around 45 amps peak? With pulse off @ 50 amps it was starting to crater. 40-42 seemed pretty good to me.

http://just.razzi.me/photos/950685/1af6ea9.jpg

Pulse works best really low around 1 pps or over 33 pps with the pulse on bring the power up and drop it back without pulse ... according to Judy from weldingtipsand tricks.com.

Pulse really works best where ever you find it to work best for you. It's not a hard and fast rule. People who are prone to epilepsy are affected by certain frequencies of flashing light. It can make some people nauseous and others disoriented.

Alcooaid, you want some cratering. That's called penetration. If you get that, then you add more filler.

Good to know! Thanks for the tips guys.

Where the magic happens
http://just.razzi.me/photos/951280/5f1e278.jpg

First time tigging on AC. Any feedback?

This is 1/16" angle on 1/8" aluminum bar. Think I had it at 110 amps. Frequency is ~110 and AC balance was at 65% I think.

http://just.razzi.me/photos/951281/b14d288.jpg

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Originally Posted by alcoolaid

First time tigging on AC. Any feedback?

This is 1/16" angle on 1/8" aluminum bar. Think I had it at 110 amps. Frequency is ~110 and AC balance was at 65% I think.

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Are you sure about the balance? You should be about 30%. 65% would ball up your tungsten pretty good. Everlast has a reversed balance control from most other welders.

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Are you sure about the balance? You should be about 30%. 65% would ball up your tungsten pretty good. Everlast has a reversed balance control from most other welders.

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Omg! that would make sense now. I was wondering why my tungsten was starting to ball up. Was just going to post a picture of it. Didn't know it was reversed. Will play again tonight :)