Anyone have problems with the Everlast WP9 Flexhead torch? Mine has broken twice :(

I received my 225LX on 2/23/12 with a WP9 torch option, by April the rubber insulation around the flexneck had cracked and shocked the crap out of me. (I SHOULD HAVE CALLED IT IN RIGHT AWAY) I took a piece of bike tube and wrapped it around the cracked rubber and used electrical tape to seal it up. I didn't use the welder at all until about 2 weeks ago. I fired it up to do a few small aluminum parts. Today the entire neck snapped off the handle when I tried to adjust the angle of the torch head, due to brittle rubber and a poor design. The flex neck itself isn't even brazed to the copper in the handle. The only thing keeping the flexible copper wound wire attached to the copper electrical lug inside the handle is the molded rubber, which was partially melted down into the area between the wound copper flex neck and the electrical lug in the handle.(explains why the neck always got so damn hot even at low amperage) Which failed after very limited use. I am really not happy with the quality of this torch! Will everlast warranty my torch? Has anyone else had this issue? Has everlast come up with a new design on the torch????

I think I'll call in and see what Everlast is willing to do.

WP9 has a very low amp rating (I think around 80 to 120 depending on duty cycle). Your machine can exceed that with ease. Are you sure you didn't overheat it?

I have never used the WP9 over 70amps. I've only used it to weld .1" aluminum sheet.

The torch is rated for 80 amps AC @ 60% duty cycle. I believe the warranty on accessories is 6 months.

I talked to Ray and from our conversation, it is his beleif (without seeing it) That it was defective from the very beginning. Tried calling and talking to Alex twice yesterday but each time I got Tatyana (SP???) and had to leave my phone # for Alex. Just like my last experience in February and March, I did not get a return call.

Throw it out and buy a CK torch?

What amperage were you using it at? What process? We've had no issues with those torches failing at all in that regard. I suspect it was overheated. Most all 9's are built identical. If you overheat any other 9's the same thing will happen.

I am wondering why you have 80 amp torch with a 225Amp machine? Does not make sense at all. I am a noob and it would have been a destructive torch test if that was the case. However my machine came with the WP26 Torch so it fit my 200DX capacity.

BTW you can get a replacement from Weldingcity

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-consu...head-body.html

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Originally Posted by vicrc

I am wondering why you have 80 amp torch with a 225Amp machine? Does not make sense at all. I am a noob and it would have been a destructive torch test if that was the case. However my machine came with the WP26 Torch so it fit my 200DX capacity.

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Just to have a lighter and more flexable torch for low amp work. You limit the power to what the torch can take.

The maximum I have ever welded with the WP9F torch was 76A on AC with AC frequency at 120hz and the Balance at about 35%. Even with the torch on 50 amps the torch neck always got extremely hot just putting down a 3" fuse weld. The only time I could have possibly overheated this torch was due to the 4053 chip frying in my 225LX which was replaced underwarranty. When that chip died I was using this torch at 65amps and all of a sudden the amps skyrocketed and blew a huge hole in the project I was working on then due to 4T I let go of the switch and then the Tungsten basically fused itself to the workpeice. When I attempted very briefly to try using it again at Marks instruction the inverter blew right open and was displaying like 400AMPS on the screen. That is the only time it could have overheated, and that was caused by the failure of the 4053 chip.

I got a WP18 torch with my 225LX and purchased the WP9F as a add on because 99% of what I weld is aluminum sheet metal and I never run the amps up that much. I think when I built my welding cart with my WP18 torch I might have made 140 amps but then I used the pedal and was never Wide open on the pedal.

I'm hoping Everlast will give me good customer service like they did last time and replace the torch for me.

How long have you had the 225LX?

Torch and accessory warranty is 6 months...which is fairly standard.

Thank you very much. I am ordering one from welding city.com
I spoke to Alex and was slightly disgruntled but Alex is going to take care of me when I order my Mig welder and possibly a plasma cutter. He will ultimately be replacing my torch, but with something a bit better. Until then I will be ordering the exact replacement head from weldingcity. I still find it odd tho that the flex section was not soldered to the fitting inside the rubber sheilding. Since this one is toast anyways I am going to take some pics to show the defect. Maybe all of these are made this way. If that is the case then hopefully someone at everlast can go back to their supplier and recommend the change to the torch for better reliability.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...h/Untitled.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...igTorch004.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...Untitled-1.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...igTorch007.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...igTorch009.jpg

If the wound wire would have been soldered to the handle piece, the rubber probably wouldn't be able to seep inside and cause a bad connection. It also would have completely prevented the whole neck from snapping off. Why the top of the neck split is completely beyond me...

That is from overheating...but the part you say isn't soldered is also broken, not just come out of the neck. You forget, that solder cannot hold up to temperatures that the torch head is subjected to. You may be welding hotter/longer than you think. Are you using the foot pedal or switch? I too have had a similar experience, but it was strictly because I was pushing it (intentionally for testing) beyond it's limits. Too much AC balance can add extra heat back on the torch. Low post flow times etc...many factors that can happen that destroy a torch like this.

As far as quality...this is the first time I've seen any issue personally and am pretty sure our customers would let us know on a regular basis if it were a quality issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by performance

That is from overheating...but the part you say isn't soldered is also broken, not just come out of the neck. You forget, that solder cannot hold up to temperatures that the torch head is subjected to. You may be welding hotter/longer than you think. Are you using the foot pedal or switch? I too have had a similar experience, but it was strictly because I was pushing it (intentionally for testing) beyond it's limits. Too much AC balance can add extra heat back on the torch. Low post flow times etc...many factors that can happen that destroy a torch like this.

As far as quality...this is the first time I've seen any issue personally and am pretty sure our customers would let us know on a regular basis if it were a quality issue.

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The fitting is soldered to the copper pipe in the picture, and the neck is soldered to the head, so there is no reason the neck can't be soldered to the handle. The solder on the fitting and head didn't melt... No disrespect but I'm not buying your opinion that I overheated the torch. Where the rubber split near the head, the rubber is half as thick as the section 180 degrees from it. The neck wasn't centered in the mold when the rubber was poured and I beleive that is partially the reason for the split and the other reason would be just simple fatigue from bending the end. I found the replacement head on weldingcity and it's cheap enough (>$10) that if another one breaks in 3 months time it's not really that big of a deal. I'm ordering 1 standard 9 head and 1 flex head. I am just offering suggestions to improve the product. I'm sure these torches are actually manufactured by another company so I didn't know how far this would go but it was worth a try. If it falls on deaf ears ohh well, I tried. I should probably just get a CK Flexloc but maybe I just got a torch with a manufacturer defect and will be lucky with the next one.

I have to correct my earlier statement...
It turns out Alex did return my call, for some reason it never made it to my cellphone nor did a voicemail alert. DAMN T-MOBILE

Also the head looks like it may be brazed and not soldered...

Thanks for the pics. It's interesting to see what's underneath the rubber surface of a flex neck torch.

Perhaps to save cost, the brass collar was merely "crimped" over the coiled copper wire in this torch design, rather than being brazed. It'd be interesting to know if this torch design was *supposed* to be brazed or not?

In any event, having the joint become loose and arc internally, wouldn't be desirable. I'm curious if the other end of the coiled copper wire (attaching it to the torch head) was brazed, or if it was crimped like it appears this joint might have been?

I do agree with Mark that a WP9 is questionable for welding .1" thick aluminum, which depending on other considerations could easily take over 100 amps to weld properly. How long were you welding the .1" aluminum before you stopped to give the WP9 a break to cool off?

Also, if you are welding with a footpedal (like most do for aluminum), how do you know the actual amps you are welding with?

I was setting my amps to 76amps and preheating the metal with a propane torch and then laying a bead for approximately 30-45 seconds. I was trying to prevent the aluminum from pulling too bad and I found this method to be the best way. I produced the best welds with lower amperage and a preheated metal.

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Borrowed a ck130 flex from a good friend and OMG IT'S NIGHT AND DAY. Its way better than both my wp18 and the wp9. I noticed a immediate difference in gas flow. On the Everlast torch I would get a big spike of gas pressure then it would taper down to a steady flow. With the ck its has a barely noticeable spike when you first push the pedal but is extremely smooth from then on out. Welds are night and day better.

Does anyone know where I can buy the ck flexloc head. I don't want to buy a torch with cable. I just want the torch head, and I'll screw it on to my Everlast hose and cable like I did with this ck130 flex I borrowed

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