Yet another Arc noob question. help with settings

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11-21-2012, 09:01 PM
Tanh

Yet another Arc noob question. help with settings

As some of you know I have a PA140ST just purchased recently and have run it on 120v with no problems. I have just hooked it up to 240v and it's HOT. Yowsers!

I have Lincoln E6011 3/32" rods at 50 amps and was sticking pretty bad so I upped it to 65 and was ok but I noticed that it burns really hot and faster now. Is this an electrode characteristic? I'm use to gas and it takes a little bit to get a bead and the pace was managable. But this seems insane. I was trying to join 2, 5/8" bolts together and then stand them up on a 3/16" mild steel plate. It was wild almost blew right through the bolt on a 1 cm tack. Wow that's a lot of power for this little package.

Now I understand I'm a noob so the skills aren't there yet. But can anybody suggest any changes that could help with this situation? I'll try to get some photos up when I get more stock. What setting and hardware would I need to say joining a 5/8 nut to a 5/8 bolt without chewing them up? What settings do you guys use for thinner materials on this box?
11-21-2012, 09:43 PM
Gerry

Not sure how your welding the bolts together, but at 65 amps you shouldn't be burning thru the bolts.
I've used 1/16 at about 30 amps on my 140. 3/32 at about 75 to 85 depending on what's getting welded.
Post up some pictures so we can see what your trying to do.
11-21-2012, 09:45 PM
Rambozo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tanh

As some of you know I have a PA140ST just purchased recently and have run it on 120v with no problems. I have just hooked it up to 240v and it's HOT. Yowsers!

I have Lincoln E6011 3/32" rods at 50 amps and was sticking pretty bad so I upped it to 65 and was ok but I noticed that it burns really hot and faster now. Is this an electrode characteristic? I'm use to gas and it takes a little bit to get a bead and the pace was managable. But this seems insane. I was trying to join 2, 5/8" bolts together and then stand them up on a 3/16" mild steel plate. It was wild almost blew right through the bolt on a 1 cm tack. Wow that's a lot of power for this little package.

Now I understand I'm a noob so the skills aren't there yet. But can anybody suggest any changes that could help with this situation? I'll try to get some photos up when I get more stock. What setting and hardware would I need to say joining a 5/8 nut to a 5/8 bolt without chewing them up? What settings do you guys use for thinner materials on this box?

6011 is a deep penetrating rod, it is designed to burn in deep. For things like welding on nuts and things, you will probably like using 6013, 7014, or 7018 rod better. 3/32" is ok, but you might even prefer 1/16" rods as you don't have to go so fast. Of course once you get an argon bottle and can use the TIG setup, you will probably use that for things like welding bolts and such. Then use stick for joining larger pieces and working outdoors in windy conditions where TIG will not work.
11-21-2012, 10:51 PM
everlastsupport

I would say go 1/16" 7018 also. Smaller diameter you will have to push it in faster. 7018 is a nice easy rod, 6013 is a better but if you are new to stick, the 7018 will start you off with a smile.
11-22-2012, 02:03 AM
performance

Keep the electrode held close and see what happens.
11-22-2012, 04:24 AM
Tanh

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep them in mind for tomorrows session. Try 7018 and/or keep the rod close to the work, short arc right? That'll be quite an feat for me right now. lol

If all is good I'll give a go at making a welding table. Off to PrincessAuto for angle iron. Hopefully I won't have to break out the torch.
11-22-2012, 11:39 AM
everlastsupport

Go a little larger diameter too.
11-22-2012, 02:08 PM
Winky

One thing to keep in mind with 7018 rod ... make sure you're using fresh rod or at least bake it if it's old ... 7018 is great rod but if it's collected moisture it will give you the fits.
11-22-2012, 03:47 PM
Winky

As far as ovens to keep your rods fresh ... you can make one ... you can spend a lot of money on the larger units or if you just want to keep a small supply at the ready there are units that are relativity inexpensive such as ... the Lincoln Electric K2939-1 Hydroguard portable oven that runs on 110v. It’s small, light weight and does the job. I think they sell for around $140 or so.
11-22-2012, 04:02 PM
Tanh

And the expenses keep coming. Seriously, are the 7018s that problematic if not fresh? Sounds silly but remember, I'm new to arc. It looks like I can only weld outside now too. Bet they'll be times a little moisture will set in before I can do anything about it. On my way to grab some 1/8" 7018 Fleetweld and bar stock now. Hope I'm not heading in the wrong direction.

What amp setting are recommended with these rods? The range is 70 - 140, IIRC.
11-22-2012, 04:20 PM
Winky

The 7012 is more sensitive to moisture than a lot of other rods ... if you live in a dry area they will stay fresh longer than if you live where I do ... if you keep them in your house they will hold up better than if you keep them in a cold damp shop ... I've kept some in my house close to a furnace register for a year and went to use them and they were fine. If you have a store close by where you can pick up a box when you need one don't even worry about an oven. The tinsel strength of 70,000lbs is nice but unless you're welding something where it's crucial you can get by with others ... I don't use stick very often anymore and I usually stay with 6011 and 6013. The amp settings depends on the size of the rod and the thickness of the steel your welding and is usually listed on the box. Generally if rod is past the point of usability they will form a white powder on them at that point just toss them. For your inverter most rods will work fine but I would stay away from 6010.
11-22-2012, 07:57 PM
Rambozo

7014 welds just about like 7018 and doesn't have the storage issues, because the flux is different.
11-22-2012, 08:48 PM
Gerry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rambozo

7014 welds just about like 7018 and doesn't have the storage issues, because the flux is different.

That what I use 7014.
11-22-2012, 09:18 PM
Winky

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rambozo

7014 welds just about like 7018 and doesn't have the storage issues, because the flux is different.

Good point ... same tinsel strength and welds at any angle.
11-22-2012, 09:28 PM
Rambozo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winky

Good point ... same tinsel strength and welds at any angle.

I didn't know you could hang them on your Christmas tree, too. :P
11-23-2012, 12:00 AM
Winky

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rambozo

I didn't know you could hang them on your Christmas tree, too. :P

Why not ... I made motorcycles to hang on Christmas trees so why not welding rod?Attachment 8557:cool:
11-23-2012, 11:31 AM
everlastsupport

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winky

Why not ... I made motorcycles to hang on Christmas trees so why not welding rod?Attachment 8557:cool:

Hey Winky,

You were using MIG on those right? What type wire are you using for the frames? They look slick.
11-24-2012, 01:01 PM
Winky

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Hey Winky,

You were using MIG on those right? What type wire are you using for the frames? They look slick.

I was using 1/8" cold rolled round stock for the entire bikes. Yes, I migged them with my 180C Red using .030 ... they are fun and easy to do and sell pretty well.