CK20 for a 200DX?

Since breaking my hand, then re-fracturing it yesterday, I can see this is going to take some time... I am having a hell of a time wrangling the torch and cable that came with the machine. I thought I read somewhere that the dinse that came on the Everlast torch could be re-used? Not a whole lot of spare cash right now, so any savings I can will help. Since the CK20 is a water cooled 250 amp torch, I can't really see an immediate need to go back to the stock torch, I could buy another connector down the road.

Anyone know if that's do-able? I'm looking at the CK20, regular head, no valve, 25' with flex cable from WeldFabulous, it's under 90. I may be able to squeeze that and enough for a consumables set out of my budget.

Have you looked at our torch options for a smaller torch? We have a 20 series with a flex head and small barrel as well as a 9 if you want small and flexible.

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Originally Posted by Trip59

Since breaking my hand, then re-fracturing it yesterday, I can see this is going to take some time... I am having a hell of a time wrangling the torch and cable that came with the machine. I thought I read somewhere that the dinse that came on the Everlast torch could be re-used? Not a whole lot of spare cash right now, so any savings I can will help. Since the CK20 is a water cooled 250 amp torch, I can't really see an immediate need to go back to the stock torch, I could buy another connector down the road.

Anyone know if that's do-able? I'm looking at the CK20, regular head, no valve, 25' with flex cable from WeldFabulous, it's under 90. I may be able to squeeze that and enough for a consumables set out of my budget.

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It's not compatable with the everlast dinse... there wouldn't be room for an adapter inside it.

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Originally Posted by performance

Have you looked at our torch options for a smaller torch? We have a 20 series with a flex head and small barrel as well as a 9 if you want small and flexible.

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I did, but the price is near double and it didn't have the superflex hose (which I probably could do without, but the price is still double)

http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-77564-...d-torches.aspx These are nice if you can go another $43 add LG to the end of the part number for an everlast gas QC (same price)

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Originally Posted by zoama585

It's not compatable with the everlast dinse... there wouldn't be room for an adapter inside it.

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Ok, thanks. Guess I may have to wait...

Trip,
Everlast customers are treated special on torches...but you also forget that these come ready to go, plumbed up with the dinse connector. That is another 40.00 you have to spend. Also ours come with the remote switch so you can still use the 2T 4T function. That's quite a value if you compare to our competitors...AND it is flex neck, which with your broken hand condition is a life saver. I did not see where the CK20 regular torch is flex head. Also, I think we are discussing some "flexible" alternatives to the standard line as well, which may be available soon. The other thing I'd say about it, is that the torches we sell as options are MUCH more flexible than the regular economy type torches we send with the units. Also I guess you are aware that the CK 20 is water cooled? (which ours are too.)

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Originally Posted by performance

Trip,
Everlast customers are treated special on torches...but you also forget that these come ready to go, plumbed up with the dinse connector. That is another 40.00 you have to spend. Also ours come with the remote switch so you can still use the 2T 4T function. That's quite a value if you compare to our competitors...AND it is flex neck, which with your broken hand condition is a life saver. I did not see where the CK20 regular torch is flex head. Also, I think we are discussing some "flexible" alternatives to the standard line as well, which may be available soon. The other thing I'd say about it, is that the torches we sell as options are MUCH more flexible than the regular economy type torches we send with the units. Also I guess you are aware that the CK 20 is water cooled? (which ours are too.)

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There's the flex head CK20, I might have grabbed the wrong link, it was like $4 more or something... I'll give a ring in sometime this week and see what they can do. I'd much rather buy it ready to go from you guys, I'm thrilled with the 200DX and plan to pick up both a MIG and Plasma within the next 6 months (as soon as I can get my finances out of the toilet) and I rave about you guys everytime a 'I'm looking at ________ welder' comes up. The price is the main point, some other comments from random threads as well, but mainly the price.

Trip - sorry to hear about the hand injury (that does not sound fun at all...)

FYI, I've also checked out the Everlast WP-20F in person, and it's pretty decent quality-wise - good quality materials, brazed construction, screw-on hose connections (rather than relying on safety-wire style clamps). And everything is ready to plug into an Everlast machine. As you've correctly noted, its only downside really are that the hoses are vinyl.

Here's yet another option to throw in the mix, with "superflex style" hoses (silicone rubber with textile overbraid)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WP20F-12R-TI...item4abb44bece
Like the other aftermarket torch options, it probably need adapters (or modification) to make hook up properly, though. A torch switch can be real handy for welding out of position (I use my torch switch for any welding that isn't on the bench top, pretty much.)

What are you going to do for your cooler?

No final plans for cooler yet, most likely run through the sink initially. I have a handful of pumps, just need to compare pressure and flow ratings. Water isn't too hard, shouldn't be an issue. Will build a proper cooler in time.

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Originally Posted by performance

Trip,
Everlast customers are treated special on torches...but you also forget that these come ready to go, plumbed up with the dinse connector. That is another 40.00 you have to spend. Also ours come with the remote switch so you can still use the 2T 4T function. That's quite a value if you compare to our competitors...AND it is flex neck, which with your broken hand condition is a life saver. I did not see where the CK20 regular torch is flex head. Also, I think we are discussing some "flexible" alternatives to the standard line as well, which may be available soon. The other thing I'd say about it, is that the torches we sell as options are MUCH more flexible than the regular economy type torches we send with the units. Also I guess you are aware that the CK 20 is water cooled? (which ours are too.)

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Ok, so I called in, price works for me on a 25' torch. He mentioned it was the same style handle as the one I have now, but it was smaller... didn't think to ask, but does anyone have a pic, maybe a pic together, comparing the European style WP20 and WP26?

Without a water solenoid valve, remember you will have to start and stop the water and it will run all the time, not just during arc on time.

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Without a water solenoid valve, remember you will have to start and stop the water and it will run all the time, not just during arc on time.

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Wouldn't that be a good thing? Constant cooling? Especially if I include some form of heat exchanger?

Oh it's absolutely great if you have a cooler, but I was thinking more about your sink type constant loss method. Most welders that use constant loss have a water valve to limit the amount of water they use. I used to work at a place where they had some welders running constant loss and because of the way the building was laid out it was easy to get water to the machine, but there was no drain around. So they had the drain hose stuck through a small hole in the wall and it drained into the parking lot. You could always tell when someone was welding by the puddle outside. What surprised me most was how little water it actually used.

Ah, yet another reason for kids :)

Great point! Not a huge deal though, solenoid is nothing more than an electrically operated valve, I'm sure I have a spare valve I could throw in at the end of the hose before the torch connection. Yes, I am a hoarder of sorts. I take great pleasure in throwing "I told you so" at someone when I need something they made me throw away. My wife finally gave up asking me to get rid of stuff and suggested I just get more shelves and better methods to organize it all.

A cooler will probably be on my short list, may even have one put together before the new torch gets here.

If it has a argon solenoid circuit it should be an easy adaptation to make it also open a water valve solenoid.

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Originally Posted by blacksmith

If it has a argon solenoid circuit it should be an easy adaptation to make it also open a water valve solenoid.

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True, but you have to be careful of how the argon solenoid is switched. If it's switched by a relay you can probably see the contact rating on it and make sure that you don't exceed that with two solenoids. But if it's solid state switching, it might not have that much extra current available, in which case you might need to add a relay to switch one or both solenoids. The last thing you want to do is fry the solid state device that switches the solenoid. Some solenoid valves can draw a fair amount of current.

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

True, but you have to be careful of how the argon solenoid is switched. If it's switched by a relay you can probably see the contact rating on it and make sure that you don't exceed that with two solenoids. But if it's solid state switching, it might not have that much extra current available, in which case you might need to add a relay to switch one or both solenoids. The last thing you want to do is fry the solid state device that switches the solenoid. Some solenoid valves can draw a fair amount of current.

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I could, but why? Seems to me I'd want it running before and longer than the gas, to draw remaining heat from the head and circulate the water for best heat transfer.

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Originally Posted by Trip59

I could, but why? Seems to me I'd want it running before and longer than the gas, to draw remaining heat from the head and circulate the water for best heat transfer.

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Oh yeah, it really helps to keep the torch cool to have it run all the time. But you'd better be damn sure you remember to turn it on, before you start welding, or your power cable will go poof! With an automatic setup you can't forget. Or if you have a cooler, it's no problem to just wire it up to come on with the welder. I think the 200DX has an outlet in the back just for that. But if you run off the sink, maybe hang a sign on the power switch to remind you to turn on the water.
That's one other advantage of CK torch setups, they have a thing called a torch saver that has a fuse block that will blow if there is no water flowing. I think I saw that the 250EXT had a water flow sensor that would cut the current if your water stopped as well.

Relying on yourself (or other human) to turn on/off water valve is risky...

Here's what happened to an expensive CK superflex cable when someone in the off-site shop I was welding at turned off the water in a laundry tub faucet cooling the TIG setup I was using. That was not a good day...
Attachment 8455

You might give serious consideration to simply going with a CK Trimline 210 superflex with flex head, being able to weld anything you come across with reasonable dexterity (it will be a huge improvement in maneuverability over your current WP-26 and the handle is going to be way smaller too) and not messing around with all the complexity that is water-cooling.

I have a setup with similar output capacity as yours (Everlast Super200P; AC/DC TIG rated 200 amps @ 60% duty cycle) and the trimline 210 can take whatever it can dish (keeping the AC balance in check).