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Is there any kind of electrode guide available that would give information such as what various electrodes are used for and what amperage is required? For example, in the case of a E6011, what materials would you use it on, what thickness of material, and at what amperage would you use?
Obviously, this is a newbie question but I just got my PA200 and I am looking to buy some electrodes.
Most of my projects will be steel plate or angle iron and vary in thickness from 1/16" to about 1/4".
Thanks
Here's a link to Lincoln's electrode guide, very informative:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...ture/C2410.pdf
Choice of electrode starts with the base material, and which electrodes can work with that material- there is some overlap in that a number of different electrodes may weld a given material. Then the thickness of the material drives the electrode diameter, and the electrode diameter drives the amperage range. You may find that you prefer a certain type of electrode over others- I find myself reaching for 6011 or 7018, for instance.
If you're just starting out, and self-teaching, you might start out with thicker base material because it's more forgiving (less burn-through, for instance) and choose an electrode that works with that material to start practicing on. Let us know how it goes!
Thank you very much for your informative and very helpful response. Yes, I am just starting out and self teaching.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO
Perhaps I could ask you another question. I watched a short video on arc welding tips and the guy was using a clamp-like electrode holder that he called a "stinger". He said he welds with his finger on the "quick release" and if the rod sticks, he immediately releases the rod and then wiggles the rod back and forth to unstick it from the material. My question is, the rod holder with the PA200 is the kind that you insert the rod and twist to tighten. If the rod sticks, what would the procedure be with that type of electrode holder? Also, what are the consequences, if any, of a rod sticking?
Thanks again.
I never release them, just wiggle back and forth quick or give a jerk to pop them free from the workpiece. You don't want to leave them stuck as it'll overload the circuit, but it's not instantaneous.Quote:
Originally Posted by Columbo
Check out weldingtipsandtricks.com you can look through them by process and metal and Jody is a great guy. Lots of info that everyone can understand, no degree required.
I'm not a fan of the style stinger that comes with the machines, Tractor Supply has some at a good price in the other style (as does Everlast) I'll be picking one up before long and changing mine over. Not that there's anything wrong, I've just always used the other style and like it a bit more.
Thanks again.
When the rod sticks it has fused itself to the base material. The waggling back and forth is just a technique of low-cycle stressing the electrode until it breaks, just like if you bend a paper clip enough times in the same place it will break. (That's usually followed by sneaking a few sideways glances to see if anyone noticed.) This happens to everyone, so no worries, but power from the machine is still flowing and the rod may overheat and cook the flux coating if you don't break it off quickly. If you notice the flux has changed color after sticking you may want to change rods to make sure the flux hasn't been damaged.
In one of Jody's stick videos he welds a base for a bending tool using 7018 rods on square tube. That video is so informative- he gives a great visual demonstration of how the cooling weld distorts the tube, and uses that distortion to his favor to true up the final product. Very cool.
Interesting question related to the original here... is there any difference with how the machine handles the overload between the new inverter machines and older transformer machines? Damage to the machine-wise I mean.
Thanks to all for your input and suggestions. I downloaded the Lincoln Electrode Guide and it does look to have a lot of info in it. And, I'll certainly take a look at Jody's web site. I'll pick up a few electrodes and a couple of piece of scrap metal and maybe give it a try this weekend.
Thanks again guys.
Columbo you may want to check out this site.
deltaschooloftrades.com for welding practoce and material saving ideas
Regards M J Mauer, Andover, Ohio
Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. Much appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by m j mauer
No prob YW
M J Mauer Andover, Ohio
Now that you have the Lincoln guide, here is the Miller guide:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.php
I checked out the site. Lots of interesting material for those new to welding. I downloaded some of the PDFs. Thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by m j mauer
Thanks GWD. I'll check that site out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by GWD
I have to say that this forum is a great forum. I have been to a number of forums based on various topics and many of them you will wait 3 or 4 days for a reply to a question, if you in fact, receive a reply at all. Whenever I have asked a question in this forum, I always get many responses, all of which have been extremely helpful. Members of this forum are very friendly and appear happy to share their knowledge and experience with beginners, which in my humble opinion, is what forums should be about,... sharing with each other. :)
Thanks again to ALL.
Miller has a smart phone app with their settings for Mig, Tig, and Stick, and it is free. It's the same information they put on their slide rule calculators, but free.
And we have a little guide in our current manuals.