Project 3 from ShaneJackson. Category: Custom welded Shop tools and improvements

Well this is my second go at TIG welding. This time I practiced a little before starting.

Again I used my PA140ST in TIG mode. I was using a 1/16 2% thoriated with a #5 cap. Amperage was 45-50. Filler rod was a 1/16 ER70S2. The metal is a little less than 1/16.

My poor old table saw was on it's last leg and liked to break dance after some idiot decided to sit on it one day (I'll be nice and not say who... but if I ever see my brick mason on the side of the road with a flat... I'll blow the horn and wave....) The actual bottom of the table saw is made out of plastic and is now cracked. This allows the metal legs to "flop" around. Not too safe... So rather than throwing it away and buying another I decided to tack the legs in hops that that would stabilize it enough to last for a few more years.

This time I cleaned the legs using a cut off disk (I know not the correct tool.... but it worked). I just did small spots as I only planned on putting small spot welds. With the table sitting upside down I straitened all the legs and leveled everything then I put small tacks to hold it together. I then set the table on it's side so I could work on a horizontal surface. Everything seemed to go smoothly. I had the argon set at 10CFM at first and then bumped it to around 12-13CFM. The welds might not look the best but they are getting better (at least I think). If nothing else I should be a little safer when using my poor old table saw.

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Looking better. 10 CFH should be more than enough with a #5 cup. Maybe even a little less like 8 CFH if you use a gas lens. How far away are you holding the tungsten? It looks a little like too long an arc. Set your tungsten stickout about 1/8" from the face of the cup and keep the tungsten about 1/16" from the surface of the puddle max. You will find it's a cooler arc, then so you might need a little more amperage. Pulling a long arc actually makes it hotter and is what causes burn throughs. This is because a long arc raises the voltage so with a constant current supply you get more power and more heat in the weld. The trick is to match your amperage and travel speed. it just takes practice. If things are melting too much try to close up the arc a little and go a little faster. I know, easier said than done, but it will become second nature given time.

Just tacking a lot of that bolt together stuff can real make a huge difference in stability. I do that a lot even on brand new stuff. Bolt holes are always sloppy and feel rickety. You can still take the stuff apart later with a little grinding, but for steel shelves or carts a few tacks make all the difference. Like gluing IKEA stuff when assembling it really transforms that stuff, too.

I have the tungsten about 1/4 out and holding it about 1/8 away from the puddle... I will try as you suggested. The one problem I am having is I keep either hitting the tungsten with the filler rod or get too close to the puddle and dip the tungsten. I am getting better but one thing I need is a good set of gloves. I have been welding bare handed on my torch hand and wearing some crappy HF (the free with coupon ones) glove on the filler hand. My torch hand (right) is getting fairly warm. Also my wonderful HF $40 helmet has flashed me a few times. It is suppose to be good for TIG above 10 amps, but below 25 amps and it happens. I was practicing with some .020" 316L sheet when it was happening.

Picture 5 of 6 was better. 4 of 6 way too much filler and moving too slow. Run a #7 cup and 8CFH

Picture #4 was the first weld of the 8. Picture #5 was the 7th weld. The biggest cup I have right now is a #6. I will be ordering more consumables soon as the LWS here is a lot higher... I had to buy a collet body for the 1/16 tungsten @ 4.25 and a collet for the 3/32 @ 2.00, for some odd reason the kit that came with my PA140ST had a 3/32 collet body (but no 3/32 collet) and 2 1/16 collets but no body.

With no arc and no helmet, practice getting a good prop with your hand and moving the torch along keeping the tungsten point at the exact same height over the material. Sometimes finding just the right prop height can make a world of difference. I keep a bunch of small wood blocks on my welding table just to prop on. They insulate you from the heat and even on flat material 3/4" under my hand makes me so much more stable and smooth. and on things like an inch or so tall a chunk of flat 2x4 is a great prop. I know there is a Miller video on YouTube about hand position. You can search that. Thin flexible gloves help a lot. Don't skimp there, Tillman are some of the best and they make 11 different styles of just TIG gloves. Be sure your helmet is set to high sensitivity and crank the delay up to help cover moments where the arc cuts out for a split second (like when you dip the puddle ;)) and that should help.

The Tillman gloves look nice. I tried a pair of Hobart premium TIG gloves on at TSC and they fit fairly well. How do they compair to the Tillman gloves? Anyone know what size they would be? I was thinking of ordering some Tillman gloves off ebay but I dont know what size I ould need....

I would advise checking at your LWS. There are so many sizes and styles. Glove fit is a unique thing, but being leather they will mold to your hands with use. Some have the fingers sewn differently and that makes a big difference in feel. I don't think any are made with Bates type curved fingers, but they sorta feel that way. I've never tried the Hobart gloves so I can't make any comparison. I have tried Black Stallion, which look like a Tillman knock-off, and they are not bad, but no where near as comfortable and compliant, so I use them mostly for things that might mess up my gloves. The Tillman's I like are dearskin, but they also have goatskin, pigskin, and kidskin, with both long and short cuffs.

Tillman 25A's are what we like (25AL Large; deerskin). It is like no glove on at all (no other jokes here please). They were $8 at PraxAir, now $10 a pair (ticks me off, but to be honest, dirt cheap even at $10). And HF has gloves they think are worth $10 for MIG hahahaha.

So for $10, take Ram's advice and get Tillman. You can get the leather ones for MIG and TIG, but I find the 25 series is beyond great for TIG and in a pinch you can MIG with them if you are quick to let things go fast :D

Great glove, bar none. Just wish they were not white. Clean until the first use. I should take a picture of my sons for fun.

I might have to try the BS version if they're black. Seen there jackets and they look good.

Tillman has a new premium TIG glove that is black, but I haven't tried them.
http://jtillman.com/products/gloves/tig/44/
By the time the white ones turn black, it's about time to replace them. I can always tell my newest pair from the older ones by the color. :D

BTW: A is for short cuff, not Adult. B is long cuff. But when you go to kidskin, D is the short cuff and C is the long, go figure.

I was looking at the Onyx. Wish amazon had them with prim shipping. Only ones I see are 25's

So far this is the best price on the 25a's I can find...
http://store.cyberweld.com/tiwegldetigg.html
Have to spend $25 but has free shipping... 4 pairs for $30.60

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Tillman has a new premium TIG glove that is black, but I haven't tried them.
http://jtillman.com/products/gloves/tig/44/
By the time the white ones turn black, it's about time to replace them. I can always tell my newest pair from the older ones by the color. :D

BTW: A is for short cuff, not Adult. B is long cuff. But when you go to kidskin, D is the short cuff and C is the long, go figure.

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I will check them out. Price Range - Super Premium? That scares me a bit.

Yea, the color and they start to stiffen a little too. I like the 25A's but will check out the 44D's in the next couple days have a tank that is empty, I carry them in myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShaneJackson

So far this is the best price on the 25a's I can find...
http://store.cyberweld.com/tiwegldetigg.html
Have to spend $25 but has free shipping... 4 pairs for $30.60

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For me I can buy for more than one person. 4 pairs will last you for a far amount of time if you don't do a lot of TIG. They are light weight, but companies have to make rent for processing the order.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

I will check them out. Price Range - Super Premium? That scares me a bit.

Yea, the color and they start to stiffen a little too. I like the 25A's but will check out the 44D's in the next couple days have a tank that is empty, I carry them in myself.

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The 44's are only in long cuff so no letter. It's the 24's that are C and D. The model numbers start to make sense, then go off in left field for some reason. The place Shane linked to has them for $16.20 so over double the price. I'll check my LWS to see if they have them, so I can feel them, first. I'm not a big fan of the long cuff, but maybe these are worth the extra cash. http://store.cyberweld.com/tiweglonblto.html

Yeah, I sweat a bunch and that seems to be what makes them get stiff. There is some stuff called Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator, that helps to keep them soft longer, if I remember to put that on. Once they get grungy, I usually swap them out and use them for non-welding work before I toss them. I try to do all my grinding with an old pair on first, but you know how that goes...

We do the same with the gloves. They get really dark and stiff for sure. We also take old welding jackets and use them as welding blankets all the time and cover the machines with them. Get the max use out of them before the trash.

I will have to check out the 44's for sure. A little longer might not be a bad thing, I don't use the sleeve unless doing a lot of welding so every inch helps.

I ordered a pair of 44's and a pair of 25A's as well. Also picked up a pair of miller safety shades with #5 lens for when I get my plasma cutter and also a miller LPR-100. I have enough breathing problems... don't want to make things any worse breathing all those nasty fumes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShaneJackson

I ordered a pair of 44's and a pair of 25A's as well. Also picked up a pair of miller safety shades with #5 lens for when I get my plasma cutter and also a miller LPR-100. I have enough breathing problems... don't want to make things any worse breathing all those nasty fumes.

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All good stuff. Same stuff I use minus the 44's and they are probably next.

My order came in today. I really like the look and fit of the 44's however the 25's feel better.... But do not fit as well. I probably could have went with a size smaller in both... Not so much the 44's but definatly in the 25's. From the fill of the material, I am guessing the 44's will outlast the 25's.