200DX AC Question:

I was trying out my new 200DX using the foot pedal tonight.

It seemed like I couldn't get the current low enough to get the effect I was looking for. When I would back off on the pedal I would loose the arc.

When I was going welding the current was fine until the material warmed up then I needed to back the power down or move a lot faster than what I wanted.

Using a 5 cup, 3/32 Lanthanated Tungsten, .075 5052 Alum, 1/16" 4043 filler rod.

What are the adjustments for the current in AC mode and how do they relate to one another?

Does the Panel amperage adjustment control the maximum current allowed when using foot pedal, thats how I'm used to it on a miller, how does the everlast work?

Knob on the foot pedal is this the amperage control when plugged in or a percentage of the knob on the panel?

Also:

The HF start works well on AC, but on DC it seems like you almost have to do a touch start is this the case?

All in all I'm impressed with the welder. My mild steel welds look just like they did on the miller machine and aluminum is not to bad if I can get the power down a bit.

Only thing so far I wish was different was that the Tig torch cable was more flexible. It's fairly cold in my garage and the plastic hose and cover are kind of stiff which affect the torch manipulation. A cloth or thin leather cover would be great with a rubber gas hose as opposed to the plastic line.

Thanks!

600,

The foot pedal on you unit should have a rheostat control on the pedal. This is only for the DX series. The knob sets your current on this machine on foot pedal control. The more expensive models use the panel for amperage control. If you have problems with low amperage control, first try the panel settings alone. See how low you can go. Also, check to see that the rubber rack (down lever) is making good contact with its cog. In shipping, this has been known to get dislodged.

On the new powertigs, you have both DC HF and lift start tig on all the models.

The tig torch can be interchanged with other brands if you want a different style. For now, this is what we offer as it is a good overall design, for most people. The flexball at the end of the torch is designed to offer increased mobility, but in cold weather, it might not offer you enough if that is the problem you are having.

Thanks for the info.

I got it figured out now.

The HF start is working fine on both AC & DC.

My aluminum welding is okay for butt welds but I need lots of practice on the fillets.

DC welds are looking good and just need practice there too.

Right now I'm just playing figuring out all the controls.

The welder is performing well.