Printable View
hey see its getting rusty i use crankshaft grinding coolant to spray on metal will protect it from rusting and washes off with soap and water . i use a pump bug spayer to spray it , it mixes 20 to 1 so a gallon go along way http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/cacrgrco1ga.html
Thanks for that tip. I've been using 30wt diluted in paint thinner sprayed from an old Windex bottle. Makes a mess that attracts dust and grit and doesn't protect the metal all that well. I like your idear.
For something that needs protecting I use the Amsoil metal protector. But it sure doesn't wash off with water. When it dries is is about the consistency of wax. Then after a while it gets a little thicker. I have seen it used as under coating and as Motorcycle chain lube. Usually need to find a dealer that sells it. Some auto repair places have it. I don't see it in stores.
It is pretty similar to cosmolene.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amh.aspx
Interesting suggestion, I'll have to try it in the future.
I have used a similar oil mixture in the past, and you're right... it does make a mess.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartybartfa
What kind of situation are you in when you prep metal this way? (Question for anyone, not just Rod.) When you have bare steel stored outside, or on anything you need to put away for a while?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
If you ever bought a reground crankshaft and wondered what the stuff on the crank is it crankshaft grinding coolant we use that so cranks wont rust after regrinding . same stuff on new brake rotors and drums also .
I built a chevy 383 for my boat, dropped off my new scat rotating assembly at a recomended machine shop for balancing. I couldn't pick it up til late evening so the guy waited, I payed him and loaded the boxes without checking my parts. When I get home I find the crank rusted from one end to the other. Everywhere it had been touched there were rusty fingerprints and the crank and it looked like the guy used ten different size drill bits to balance it. I should've known there would be problems when I had to explain to the guy how to zero deck the block. I polished it up with crocus cloth and moved on. !st and last time I used that shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
You don't have any locations near Chicago, perchance? Maybe a known good associate? Shipping on a 75lb crank 2 ways is ugly. S/F.....Ken MQuote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
should only take 1 or 2 drill marks if balancing a crank did you have the crank set up externally balanced or internally with heavy metal plugs . should have been know rust on crank i always use latex gloves when handly crankshaft . as for shipping fedex is not to bad if you set up a fedex account its free I use a 750 Shttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-k1GqIFP1gunnen crankshaft balancing machine at my shop Costa mesa shop is very good at crankshaft balancing and machine work know him nice guy and friend
if you bought a hole stroker kit from scat they come balanced already just need to tell them internal balance or external
I pieced it together, it's been about six years ago. I wanted a 5.7 rod and an 8.7CR there wasn't a kit that matched at the time. I learned a few lessons in that build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
I used a totalseal gapless top ring set in that engine, those things are awesome.
rust helps the paint stick better :D
need to build a 450 CI stroker smallblock http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpa...k/viewall.html
If I were gonna build another chevy engine it would be based on the newer LS series. I like them best of all the newer v8's. I think ford screwed up with their modular engines by adding so many parts and complexity for relatively no gain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
same here hate 4.6 and 5.4 ford engines
There's something to be said for simplicity. Gotta give GM credit for keeping up with the times with a relatively "archaic" pushrod engine.
Well I am in a humid area here. Was at a friends house some years ago. He took all the caps off the cranks and we got busy on something else. When we came back minutes later there was a very noticeable haze of rust on all the journals. You would think the crank after sitting in oil would not rust. Was really amazed to see it. IIRC it was cool fall weather.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Probably metal particles that were in the oil that rusted that quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
Oh, I don't need balancing. I'm pseudo-apprenticing at a local race engine builder(the guy building my EFI B-1) and can get them balanced there. I need a 440 chrysler crank offset ground on the rod journals to 2.200 for Chevy rods and the main journals ground to 2.6250 for a low deck block, giving a 3.90" stroke.
I'm trying to avoid buying more offshore stuff than I have to. Yes, the irony of posting that on a site dedicated to Chinese import welders is not lost on me. S/F....Ken M