I see them sold in a 10 pack. Do they get dropped and break easily??? or contaminated??? How often do you change them??
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I see them sold in a 10 pack. Do they get dropped and break easily??? or contaminated??? How often do you change them??
They might chip, but they are pretty tough. On the life of them. I have a couple that are years old. Depends on the welder I guess. 10 will last anyone a long time.
Does the same go for the collets and collet bodies??? Unless they are easily lost.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Yes... in my opinion, any collet body combined with a CK wedge collet should last years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
The wedge collet is the solid one on top. Attachment 6171 The collet body in this pic is a gas lens.
A pack of ten pink ceramicnozzles should last quite a long time providing that you're a decent welder and they don't get overheated.
I would like to know how long those clear Pyrex cups last without being discolored or breaking.
I'd also like to know if those Champagne-II nozzle kits or the CK large diameter gas saver nozzle kits withthe pyrex lens perform better than the ceramics?
I wouldn't bother keeping more than 2 of any alumina cup size. One for using on your torch, one at close reach as a backup, and maybe one extra stored in the bottom of your drawer, just because they're cheap and might as well. But, there really is no use in having 10 of the same size cup, unless it's your favorite cup size and you want a lifetime supply or something. The common sizes are readily available at the local welding supply one at a time, IME they're pretty inexpensive, too.
I've set my torch down on plastic / synthetic fibers before and had the stuff melt and adhere itself to the cup. This is when you'll want the spare cup handy. After letting the "goobed" cup cool off, whatever is not cup will just scrape right off! But, when this happens in the middle of the welding project, you'll be glad you have a backup cup in the same (or other similarly usable) size to substitute on there, so you don't need to get it slow you down.
Oh, you can kill a cup though if you weld while forgetting to turn on the gas. That can make the arc travel along the cup material and have it "melt". Almost forgot about that, but it has happened, and that's the cause.
I would rank the lives of TIG torch components as follows...
relatively short length:
* the tungsten electrodes will by far be consumed the quickest out of any TIG torch component. (Eventually the dips and grinds will make them get too short to be good any more.)
medium length:
* I would say collets (if you get them overheated, they will deform and lose temper; IME, for both the conventional copper style as well as the brass CK "wedge" style)
* Also gas lens collet bodies can get messed up if you let any spatter get into their screens (word to the wise: don't weld really dirty stuff, like galvanized, pot metal, etc; with a gas lens)
* "stubby" collet bodies (especially stubby gas lens) are more prone to overheating and deformation or breakage. Just aren't designed with as heavy metal, to conduct the heat away as fast as their full length versions. (I still like 'em a lot though!)
* The "o-rings" on the back cap can eventually wear out (can get torn from abrasion, or just lose their resiliency from old age and heat.)
* TIG torch leads themselves can overheat, if improperly handled, which I think happens a lot more often than most people realize (most people unaware of it.) Gas cooled 1-piece leads can overheat if you exceed their amp/duty cycle rating. It causes contaminated shielding gas when it's happening. Water-cooled, remember to turn on your cooler, as the conductors in a gas cooled line are very small so have high electrical resistance, and would heat up very quickly without keeping them submerged in ample liquid coolant whenever being used. (That means, keep coolant in them when carrying current, and circulating with ample flow preferably.)
longest length:
* regular (non-gas lens) full length collet bodies, seem to be pretty hard to kill - (no screen to clog, and pretty thick metal = hard to overheat)
* cups (I think I have yet to break one... ever. But I'm sure it can happen. They are nearly indestructable.) But, do be careful not to drop your torch, because I'm sure it happens. It just won't happen from normal, even moderate to severe use. (Got to remember to turn on the shielding gas too, or you can melt them!)
* the teflon insulators are nearly indestructable as well. But... don't abuse them by grabbing them hard with needle nose pliers; I've seen them ruined that way. Some of them are kind of hard to get off when new (especially CK are the worst) but seem to "loosen up" a little over time and use. Resist the urge to break out the needle nose pliers. (Or if you do, be very gentle.)
* leads could be in this category as well, only if you don't exceed their duty cycle (and always remember to turn on the cooler, if watercooled.) Still can eventually wear out from flexing right at the butt end of the torch handle though.
Thanks for taking the time to write all this. Quite a bit of info... Looks like the tungsten and filler rods should be high on my list.
I remember picking up extra accessories for other tools and finding out years later they are still in the box, unopened, and unneeded....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIG-Torch-WP...item5d2753de65 I got one of these cheap just make sure you order for your type of torch head
There's more stuff on the web site not all listed on eBay: http://www.river-weld.com/
yes there internet site is better
Our WP17,18,26,28 takes 10Nxx series and the WP9, 20 take 13Nxx series.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
As far as how long ceramic cups last … when I first got my old DC scratch start TIG I learned when you forget to turn the gas on … they last about five seconds … seems funny now … at least I remember to turn it on …these days LOL