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Excuse the newbie questions... I do seem to have a lot of them...
Why do you need different size tungsten? I follow that you should size them to the material thickness. If you are welding thick you need a larger diameter so you don't melt it. Why do you need to size down for thinner metals??
Thanks Guys.
Brian,
I'm new to TIG too, but I believe that the smaller tungsten electrodes can give you better arc control for fine work. The larger tungsten, of course, carries more current for welding thicker material.
Cheers
Mike
1/16" and 3/32" pretty much covers everything I do.
The amount of current determines the diameter of the electrode. Otherwise it will burn up if to small. I find 3/32" (2.4mm) lanthanated to be good for 130-210 amps, and go up or down from there.
I use 3/32 more for 40-180 amp range. I even use it down to 10 amps or so fairly well, when I need to
I can follow you can melt a rod if too much current, but how bad is the arc if you are using a large rod for thinner work. You still have a point. Is it really bad to handle or would it just be a little better to use a smaller diameter? Me the logical thinker would say as long as you have the current turned down it should be pretty close. Then you are controlling a temper mental arc. HahaQuote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
It could affect the weld width and penetration. I normally keep 3/32" in and it covers what I do. But might not for others. Arc start/control is always fine for me with our units.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
I find the bigger tungsten will put too much heat out even if the amps are dialed back. It's just a wider path of heat so when you jump down in size on the electrode, it concentrates the heat in a smaller area giving more control of the arc path.
Once you start Tig'ing you'll instantly understand. I used to think why this, why that but as soon as I got into school and started Tig'ing, within a week, all my questions were answered. (Basically :) )
I used 1/8" and 1/16" for the most part. 2% Thoriated. I have some 1.5% Lanthanated but the Thoriated works better for me even though it makes me toxic.
That is good to know... Looks like I was writing a reply when you posted. Trying to figure out what I need to pick up to start with and 3/32 looks to be a good standard to start with.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Thanks for the replies.... Brian
3/32 and 1/16 filler is a good combo for up to about 160 amps. The only time I go down to 1/16 tungsten is to use .035 mig wire on small pits or corners.
To begin with, sharpen a whole quiver full of tungsten so it's no problem to change to a clean one. Dipping the wick messes things up but it's tempting to step on the pedal and try to use it anyway. It don't work, change to a new sharp one.
Green silicon grinding wheels used for tungsten carbide tool sharpening works on electrodes.
There you go that was my next question. What do you use for sharpening the tungsten... Now one thing I remember from reading... Sharpen toward the point. Not circular around. (like you would in a pencil sharpener)Quote:
Originally Posted by JBnID
The real easy solution is to buy a 6 inch diamond lap of about 400 to 600 grit and pinch it between your regular bench grinder wheel and the hold down washer. If you're worried about inhaling thorium, lay down an old washcloth under the wheel and be sure to wet it every time you grind. It'll catch about 90% of the dust.
You're right. Sharpen so the grinding marks go from the body to the point, not round and round.
I see diamond laps on ebay from ten bucks up. No need to buy expensive ones!
I use 2% Lanthanated. Is it prudent to grind both ends of the electrode? I am a noobie and I seem to be grinding more than I am welding:)
Grinding both ends lets you flip the tungsten over and use the other point after you dip it.
Getting up to regrind it every time you dip it helps teach you not to dip it.
You're choice! :)
EDIT: Ugh, sorry, "Your choice!".
great point (no pun intended)
Another great tip... (bad pun) thanks.... I never though about grinding both ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Moir
Yeah, but when you get a big ball of stainless gobbed onto your tungsten, it's hard to cram it back through the collet. So you take the back cap off to flip it, even though the grinder is just right over there. Just a few steps away. Then you gob metal all over the *other* end of the tungsten, so you have to take the torch all apart to get it over to the grinder. :)
So I force myself to get up and grind, and learn not to dip (or to drill vent holes before trying to close!). It might be less efficient, but thank God I don't need to feed myself being efficient with the TIGger.
I keep a quiver of sharpened tungstens and a cup to hold the goobered ones. Sometimes the set-up and pre-heat is important and it's a PITA to be interrupted too much by a lurch into the molten pond.
Very good point! (Cred to Buggy Chief)
Good point... Nice to learn tricks from people who have been there...Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Moir
BTW Did check ebay.. There is a guy who has diamond laps for $10 60-3000 grit. Just need to keep them from being used for other things. Don't want to contaminate the tungsten. I think my step father has an extra grinder I could toss it on. I already have 2.