Dyethor's Tig cooler. Pic heavy!!!

Since I purchased a new 225lx and it came with a water cooled torch I thought its about time to make a cooler. This is a free style build, The only plans are in my head. I had a CO2 pump setting around the shop for as long as I can remember, I knew I would use it for something sooner or later. It is a Procon series 1 unit with the strainer and adjustable bypass (to adjust the pressure). It has a stainless steel pump shaft, and the vanes and other internal parts seem to be made of graphite or something. I had to disassemble the pump because when I turned it on it was stuck. Upon inspection there was a little bit of dried crust that had a greenish tint. Also I think somehow the vanes had become swollen thus not allowing them to move in their slots freely. I soaked everything besides seals in some citric acid I have. This got rid of the tarnish on the brass parts and cleaned the stainless shaft. I also gave the vanes a quick soak this didn't help with the swelling. So I had a fine flat file and carefully filed the two big sides of each vane until they moved freely in the shaft. I put it all back together and ran water through it, it pumped like a champ. I put a 60psi gauge on it in an attempt to set the pressure. Well I pegged the gauge as soon as it turned on, now under zero pressure it sets at the 10psi mark. After that I was able to get it set to 50psi. Upon testing the flow I measured 2000ml in 24 seconds.

Here is a picture of the pump after being cleaned and reassembled.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...1&d=1331243972
Another shot.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...2&d=1331243972

Next I made the reservoir. I'm going to try and run the cooler without a heat exchanger just the reservoir. For the hot water inlet I decided to make a sort of trough at the top, inside of the tank. My thinking is that this will help evenly distribute the hot water into the cool water.
The big sides measure 12"x12", the other sides are 12"x 8".
Here are the pieces awaiting holes.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...0&d=1331243972

Hole for the fill neck.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...9&d=1331243972

Holes for the inlet outlet and water level tube.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...8&d=1331243972

Two corners welded.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...7&d=1331243947

Four corners welded.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...6&d=1331243947

Front side tacked in and ready to weld.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...5&d=1331243947

The internal baffle.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...4&d=1331243947

Fill neck welded on.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...3&d=1331243947

3/8 NPT fitting ready to be welded.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...2&d=1331243947

Fittings all done.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...1&d=1331243947

Completed reservoir.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...0&d=1331243947

Next is building the frame and motor mount. I decided to use 1"x1" aluminum square tubing (I had it laying around) The plate is 3/16.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...9&d=1331243947

Here's the frame welded to the tank. Also the plate.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...8&d=1331243947

The Plate clamped waiting to be tacked and welded.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...7&d=1331243947

The plate welded in place.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...6&d=1331243947

The pump in position and mounted.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...5&d=1331243947

A little bit of plumbing.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...3&d=1331243947

Nice welds... You'll need an corrosion inhibiting coolant since copper+aluminum= galvanic corrosion.

Next is the cover and front panel. I made it big enough so that in the event that it overheats really fast I can easily fit in a heat exchange.

Here is the Cover all tacked and ready to be welded.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...2&d=1331243947

Here Is some of the joints welded. I was running out of Shielding gas and didn't realize it. My welds were progressively getting worse looking and harder due to oxidation. I tried playing with the settings on the machine with out looking at the gas gauge first. This led to worse looking welds.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...1&d=1331243947

After getting a new bottle of gas I was able to clean up the bad welds.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...0&d=1331243947

Here is the cover mounted on the frame.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...9&d=1331243947

The plumbing and the back of the switch.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...8&d=1331243947

Next I have to go get the proper connector to hook up to the welder power outlet. I put a heavy duty toggle switch rated for 30A at 110v on the front panel. This just allows the option to not have the pump running while the welder is on. My pump motor is rated for 110v and to get it to work with the welder I'm only using one leg and the ground/neutral. Each leg is 110v and ground 0v. If you hook up using both legs you get 220v.
I'm still waiting on my quick disconnects for the water to torch lead hook up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zoama585

Nice welds... You'll need an corrosion inhibiting coolant since copper+aluminum= galvanic corrosion.

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Thanks.
Yea I still have to decide on a coolant.

That is some clean work! There have been a lot of DIY coolers posted in various forums, but yours is very nice!

Nice job dyethor! What settings did you use on the aluminum? Did you have any problem with distortion after you welded the bungs in place? I usually end up having to run a tap through to clean up any out of roundness.
-RP

On this I was running at maybe 70hz and 45% using a 3/32 ceriated tungsten. No problems with distortion I try to focus the heat on the sheet metal and pull the puddle up to the bung.

Great work, I look forward to hearing if the coolant tank is enough without a heat exchanger. How are you liking the 225LX so far?

So far its working great. Its been a constant trial and error playing with the settings to get the results I want. I cant wait to use the cooler, just need coolant and waiting on the Qd. fittings.

I will be building a cooler very similar except using a shurflo diaphragm pump and a old heater core.

Looks good

I have used my homemade cooler for over 2 years . i just use distilled water and have not had any problems with water breaking down with that much water volume it will never get hot my cooler holds 5 gallons of water . i also have a transmission cooler on the return line . have my pump wired to welder on switch off 2 lugs since 110v . so i never forget to turn pump on when welding . if in a climate that freezes you can use rv potable water antifreeze same stuff as the tig coolant http://compare.ebay.com/like/2509539...Types&var=sbar or also can use GM dexcool since made for aluminum

i would not use a old heater core . i have cut old ones open there just full of debre and crap .

Where did you get that 90 degree plate clamp?

I got them from my local westair. There a little spendy but are very nice to have.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop

i would not use a old heater core . i have cut old ones open there just full of debre and crap .

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Probably agree with that... You should be able to get a new one for $20 or less depending on size.

Attachment 6319you can pick up good heavy duty trans coolers at wrecking yards of cars with tow packages or trucks i picked one up for my cooler looked like new for 15 bucks . was thinking since i specialize in Suzuki samurai repair should have used one of my trick samurai radiator,s i use since there all aluminum . they are only 125 bucks - also a car a/c evaporator would be good to use since are very high in removing heat and made of aluminum

Nice looking shop (and project). Do you make a living out of it or just for fun?

I think a water cooler will probably be one of my first projects, depending on whether I end up picking up the PP256 or 200DX.. Still thinking about it :)