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I was wondering on high pulse at what point can you no longer see the pulse. What I mean is at what dial setting does the pulse appear a steady arc. I think the potentiometer for my pulse nob is off. It takes until the 2 or 3 o'clock position unit I can't see it any more. Maybe they are all like this but it gets very sensitive toward the end like 75% of it's total settings are in the last 25% of the nob turn.
I think our eyes can see about 24 frames / sec. If the pulsing is more than 24 hz (not exact), I believe the arc should no longer be flashing / pulsing. Incandescent bulbs operate at 60 hz, right? You don't see those flashing IE pulsing.
BTW - I can't comment as to where that falls in the range on the pulse nob. I'd have to experiment. Haven't used mine enough, yet. Also, I think you'll hear the pulses, even if you don't see them flashing.
Yeah I know it is hard to judge by eye. I have an oscilloscope my friend it getting for me to use to see what the settings are exactly. I think they are off.
You should be able to pick off about 60 hz from hearing, right? Think of the noise flourescent lights make. That is 60 hz. That is a point of reference for sure.
I'm gonna see if that works but I hope others with the same welder will tell me how theirs is compared to mine. If mine is off it has got to be a matter of the nob or switch.
My super200P's pulse frequency knob works like that too. Gets really sensitive in the last few degrees of the knob turn. It's bugged me, but not enough to tear it open and see if the pot can be changed or circuit altered to improve this behavior somehow. When it's cranked all the right / clockwise, it's a repeatable setting and supposedly at about 300Hz, and makes a "Hmmmm" sound. At any other setting, it's either so slow it flashes (in which case I prefer it quite slow to usually help with the the stack of dimes look or rhythm of filler rod dips,) or it's not repeatable and so sensitive to make fine adjustments, that I don't use it.
I do sometimes use low pulse frequency actually to reduce heat input, but it's for a different application than high frequency pulsing which is more to constrain/focus/narrow the arc. (Or just keep the helmet from flashing... both low frequency and high works for that :P ) Anyhow, I just crank it all the way to clockwish=300Hz when I don't want to see or notice the pulsing. It does have an affect of focusing/narrowing/constraining the arc, deepening penetration at that setting too.
I have never seen a potentiometer ohm out at what is stamped on the back, always ohms out higher or lower. If that is the case and the pots are not as designed. Would that limit the range or add to the range, if it had more or less than designed resistance?
Cippee,
With all due respect, you must ask yourself one question. Is it broken? Do both low pulse and high pulse modes work?
Pulsing is used to keep from eating up edges of weld joints and agitate the weld puddle. Mine works fine and I use it frequently.
The 250 EX is a great welder and I don't see any need to have my buddy to come by with an scope to check settings. The proof is in the puddle so to speak, and the settings are more than adequate enough to satisfy anyone's needs.
If it ain't broken, don't fix it!
It work on both low and high pulse but here is the thing. Low pulse maxes out at 20 pps. High pulse mode started at 20 pps. On the lowest setting on high pulse it is about 1 pps. Far off from 20 pulses. Then at the 100 pulse range it is about 15 pulses. Then at about 200 pulse range it is about 30 plus. At 300 pulse range to 500 hundred pulse range it goes from 30 to what I hope is the max setting. So a 30 to 500 in a 1/5 nob turn very sensitive. If thinking the off low high switch might be off. I don't know if there is resisters in the switch because on low pulse it seams to be accurate. I normally don't get petty with details but I want to know when I set the nob to 100 pps or 500 pps that is what I'm getting. As it is now I don't even know if I'm getting the full 500 pps. I may never use it but if you buy something that says it has 500 pps I want to know it has it. I know I am anal but I would think most welders would do the same thing as me. To add I love my 250ex and it is a wonderful machine I would recommend to anyone. I just want this wrinkle ironed out. Right now oon high pulse I have to go by eye and sound because the nob is so off.
Tech support is sending a new nob assembly. I have to say everlast's service is excellent. I have dealt with alot of companies and haven't been treated so well by any. Example I put an oil pressure switch on my suburban and it failed within a month. I called and they said I had to send the part back to get a new one. I told them I couldn't because it would leak oil. They made me pay for a new one and then credit me back when they got the old one. Most companies do this same thing. Everlast just takes care of it. That is the way it should be done. I'm glad I got an everlast. I tell you my next toy is going to be a power-I mig 250p I never used a pulse mig and very curious to how they perform.
Cippee,
The pulse never has been linear. We have recently added markings, but admittedly they are better used as a reference point to ensure repeated set-ability , rather than a hard core indicator of true pps. Furthermore the pots can be off easily from pot to pot by 20%. This unit is analog, not digital. Digital is the only way to come close to being really accurate. I don't know that there will be a lot of difference. IF the low pulse is accurate, I don't see how changing out the pot will make the high end more accurate. Accuracy is better by far than it used to be, but it still is mostly a reference point than anything else. Up to a few months ago, those settings were just dots...........
The nob feels grainy when I turn it. The other nobs are all smooth at butter. The new nob may be the same if they are not liner type pots. However I should have been clearer the low pulse is accurate at the max setting is 20 or so pps but it is very sensitive toward the end. I'm not expecting that it will be right on as you said it isn't digital. I just hope that the pot is wider in it's range so to say. Meaning that the last 20% of the pot turn will have 80% of the settings. Thanks though for all your help you guys and gals deserve an A+. I am anal and the tech support guy was very patient.
The wire wound pots have a grainy feel to them, they are normally the better pots. Does your welder pulse at .2 or 1pps like mine does on the lowest setting?
Yes, srp,
The pots do have a gritty feel to them from time to time, but ease up and smooth out as they wear in. It's not a signal of a defect though. We have rarely had true pot issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cippee
Thanks Cippee,
The new one is smooth, and I packaged it so it can't get hurt in shipping, short of being run over by a steam roller, (it is comming UPS, LOL).
not sure it will help but it can't hurt to try.
Ray
Yeah it's right about 1pps at the lowest.Quote:
Originally Posted by srp