First try with a torch switch. Pretty cool!

So, saving for my first and only welding test a few weeks back, I've been a pedal guy for all of my short TIG welding career. (The welding test was scratch start, with a gas valve on the torch). Lately, as luck would have it, I'm SWAMPED with projects, and NONE of them has to do with welding or plasma cutting. Ain't that how it goes? I've been yearning for some good welding equipment for almost a year, I finally get it, and then I ain't got the time to use it! I need to power through this list so I can resume welding. Anyway, I decided that projects be damned, I need to get on these welders and practice, and shake down for any problems while the machines are still new. Absolutely no problems yet, I'm happy to report. So, I decided to fore up the 250EX and try out the torch switch. I started out in 2T with no up or down slope. Ran a bead, and it was apparent that I needed to dial back on the amps. Once dialed back, I was able to run some of the nicest beads that I've ever ran EVER. This got me motivated to try out the upslope/downslope, start/end amps and pre/post flow, and 4T mode in all the above different settingd. I only had about 1/2 hour to play, but I could see within that 30 minutes that there are definitely advantages to using the torch switch in the right situation. And in my humble opinion, the paddle style switch included with my Everlast WP20 torch is SWEET! Next, I'm planning to get a WP20 from CK worldwide with the radio knob style amp control just to see how I like the idea of having that adjustment right at my fingertips. But for now, I'll continue to practice with the switch just so I have some level of competency when I need to use it in that mode.

It definitely has advantages for certain scenarios, such as let's say, on your knees welding on the floor of a structure. Or on your back underneath something reaching up to weld something overhead. Or any place where dragging and/or operating a footpedal just isn't convenient.

Try putting your maching into 2T mode, and sets about 2-3 seconds of downslope, and dial in the peak amperage to about 30% or so hotter than you need (on average) to weld something. You can then manually cycle the switch in 2T mode to throttle the power output as needed. Holding it down at the beginning gets you the quick puddle (even on aluminum...) and then you can vary the "duty cycle" that you press the switch to regulate the power output, including tapering off the power approaching an edge in order to maintain a uniform weld bead, etc. I've found you can actually control heat pretty well like that! (Weld aluminum just fine like that, and so on.)

Generally speaking, for anything on the table, I use a footpedal. For welding needs away from the table, I often use the torch switch.

I need to practice more with a torch switch. I like using a pedal and always weld at table but I'm not always going to be so lucky.