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Hello all, I have Tig 250 EX and I got smaller torch WP 20F for it, it's smaller and nice. However I'm looking to replace finger switch to finger amp control switch probably north/south style switch. 250 EX uses 7 pin for switch for foot pedal came with it but I'm not foot pedal guy since my knee heats with injury before.
Does anyone swap control and what do you guys recommend?
CK makes a very nice one http://www.ckworldwide.com/amperage_controls.htm
The control must be a 47-50k pot. I don't think they have those. I have had other customers that have sought a solution with them, but they didn't have that at the time.
We do have a torch with finger amp control switch (rotary) coming out soon. Somewhere Duncan has posted a picture of it.
Here's the link for a thread started by zoama585 apparently CK responded to the "newfound" demand for their torches with Everlast. There's part numbers for all 3 styles of amp controls (linear, rotary, and wheel) specially created for Everlast welders, plus the torches to go with.
CK Torch Packages For Everlast Welders
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...erlast-Welders
Good luck!
For some reason which is a mystery to myself and Jim at SSC as well... Everlast does indeed use a 47K potineometer as stated below.. Evidently there's something very different inside one the remote amp control board that requires one in that range. I don't know if this is something that could be changed but it should be addressed if possible since it does limit the available options for remote controls. Jim at SSC stated that other manufactures do use different range parts as well but none even close to the range Everlast has settled on. I suppose the right question at this point in the game would be ----------------------> Why is it so different and can it be changed to a different setting that would make using other brand controls work? As the CK advertisement that I watched stated no two welders will use the same location and be comfortable enough to do well with it. That's why they make so many styles. I tried a torch control in years past and couldn't come to terms with it at all and ended up giving it away to someone that took a shine to it laying in my tool box... I've used a foot control in just about every contorted position you can imagine and always find a way to make it work with some part of my body. Pushed it with my foot naturally, elbow, knee, butt, taped it to my foot and pushed over head, squeezed it between the back of my calf and thigh, and even welded while calling out for more or less heat while someone else mashed the pedal which worked the worst of all the ways I have listed above! The torch mounted control was one I couldn't masted but all I've tried was east/west ... North south wasn't available at that time from anyone I knew about anyway. I am open to try that CK deal and will most likely get one in the near future just to see how it works. I'm currently teaching my wife to TIG weld and may see if that's something she adapts to well. She has more fun welding than I do it seems ..
Thank you for all input. CK torch with wheel control is damn looks nice and easy to adjust amp. I have Miller Maxter 150 came with weld craft 17 torch with wheel control is so far best for something need to control at finger, I want to make 250EX same style.
You had me laughing with this one. I can relate being inside a car welding and on the floor pushing the pedal with my knee but I've never tried a torch amp control.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUNNER
Attachment 5359I have attached a Picture showing the available Amp Control Torch that will be available to Australia and Canada within the next Three Weeks or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
The torch is supplied by the same Manufacturer of the Canadian Tig Torches so the Quality is far superior to the Standard US Supplied torches .
With the 250EX the start amps for AC need to be set at 18 amps or so and then it can ramp down from there to the 5 to 7 amp range.
We will be carrying both air and water cooled torches and the initial introductory prices will be very atractive for our Customers ( these prices will only be for owners of Everlast equipment ) .
Testing was initiated back in December and follow up evaluations have been done this week so i am satisfied with the overall results and the ease of use for the controls on this torch.
In actuall fact i am somewhat surprised with how much i like this new torch . So much so in fact that i will be working towards having accesories supplied for it ( Flex heads to change out on Body etc)
I've got a little scratch start. My only power adjustment is on the Inverter itself.
Duncan and Mark,
That new Everlast amp control torch looks interesting.
Do you have any larger detailed pictures? What size/style torch is it?
Is there any eta for us in the USA? Will it be compatible with both the LX, EX, and the EXT?
I have Air cooled and Water Cooled torches arriving in WP18 and WP26 . These torches are compatible with the , PowerPro 256 225Lx 250EX and 250EXTQuote:
Originally Posted by froader
The 200DX and PowerPro 205 use a different pot value and i have Air cooled only torches for these 2 units.
I have no idea what time frame the US has for these torches but hopefully it will not be too long a wait .
The only picture i have is the one i took showing the torch body in the previous post.
Thanks Duncan. Will there be any development for adding an amp control to the WP20?Quote:
Originally Posted by Titan winch
X2, it's really nice that amp control comes separate like CK and just verclo it on torch, so that way we can use it on WP 20 or other torch have already have.Quote:
Originally Posted by froader
Ok- it 2015...
and Everlast makes a EV 26 with finger control-
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/pr...tion=node/1346
to fit my Powertig 250EX, but I own and prefer smaller WP-20 torches over european handles- has anyone found simple solutions to buy and fit Everlast ohms?
250ex?
Thanks,
Andy Brott
FYI -47K pots are made in the billions, therefore good quality can be cost effective.
Ultimately, any (well with very few exceptions) electronic measurement is a voltage measurement. There is undoubtedly a little voltage divider circuit in the control input section that delivers voltage in a range like 0 - 3 volts or 0 - 5 volt when the 47 k pot is turned to the current control input circuit. That divider is likely built into the microprocessor IC, or less reliably into printed circuitry - in any case not easy to change at all. So, this is hardware, not programmed and you need the correct pot or the control will not act as designed. This not necessarily some error in design, there are plenty of good reasons to do it this way.
Sure,
Mr. TIG sells the CK SteadyGrip hand amptrol for Everlast units, via his TigDepot site, maybe through his Weld.com site as well. And he's the sole source of these, as he seems to be wiring the 7-pin Panasonic connector for Everlast units himself.
CK only markets the SteadyGrip for Lincoln, Miller, and Tweco, which all take a 1K, 5K, or 10K pot. But the one TigDepot sells is a 25K pot, which Mr.TIG demo'ed on a video of his with an Everlast 325EXT. And I soon thereafter purchased one for use on my 210EXT, which, like many analog and digital Everlast models, calls for a 47 or 50K potentiometer, ideally speaking. But, nonetheless, the CK SteadyGrip works quite well on my 210EXT, right off the shelf. And now another forum member here has used it on a PP205S.
So, even thought the SteadyGrip is priced fairly high, like most CK items, at around $239 (which is cheaper from Mr. TIG than most places), with free shipping and now sales tax paid the the State extortion racket, I think it is real nice hand amptrol for those who are looking for one with a clean and elegant design that is actually very "steady" in it's actuation, will keep your hand off a hot torch, and has a handle that makes for a good positioning prop.
I have the SSC pedal and the Everlast WP26 hand amptrol TIG torch assembly, both of which I like well enough. But the Steady Grip has quickly become a delight to use.
I'll mention that, since the slide action is not spring-return loaded, the whenever the slide is off the start position without an arc initiated, for more that a couple of seconds, the panel will read 805, if I remember correctly. But that is apparently is code normal that appears and indicates that the HF and gas flow in negated since an arc is not initiated. And I suppose a pedal would show the same thing if it wasn't spring loaded. That 805 figure on the panel was a little confusing to me, initially, until someone here mentioned what it actually was.
Otherwise, the SteadyGrip handle can be removed as well, but I think the beauty of the thing is how fluid the motion is with it being used.
So, please let us all hear if you get one and how you like it.
http://tigdepot.net/cart-products-pi...-200dv-15-4559
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyjWOpkeaH4
MOST all new Everlast TIG units should use a 22k pot. So this would work possibly since we've used 25k before with the 22k units and 50k with the 47k with no adverse problems. Possibly loose/gain only a few amps on either end.
Yeah,
I was doing a little welding today with the SteadyGrip, and double-checked to see if the gas flow shuts off after a fews seconds if an arc is not initiated when the slide is out of the start position, and it DOES NOT. So, that's something to me mindful of, which I am, and haven't lost any gas that way, to speak of, that I can tell so far.
I too, like Christian am using the CK Steady Grip and really like it. Not sure I will use the Pedal now that I have this. It initiates pre and post flow great.