225LX can't seem to get it to tig..

Hi Guys..

New here but not new to welding.

I just picked up a 225LX and can't seem to get it to AC/DC tig. Stick function welds fine. Running 100% Argon, Red tungsten (works on my other DC tig) and can't seem to get the arc to narrow or generate any real focused heat other then a large wide 'spark'n flame. Can't even get it to make a puddle :/ Rockers are all selected for tig, A/C when attempting Alum. D/C for steel, and generally settings for what my needs are.. A/C freq. and pulse/controls were left off for the alum.tests. I was testing on 1/8 alum. and flat steel and couldn't get 'either' hot enough to create a puddle. Lots of noise, looked like plenty of arc although too wide, but no welding..

Welcome to the forum. What's the amp reading say while the arc is going ?

Do you have the torch in the negative?
What do you mean by spark'n flame? The arc looks like an inverted ice cream cone than a blue lightening bolt. Can you describe it a little better? What is your AC balance? Have you downloaded the manual online?

AC frequency all the way to the left???:O Why oh why?

Sounds like you need to sit down, start an Arc and turn some knobs while the arc is going.

Sounds like you are not getting past the "arc transfer" point with the high freq. start feature. First try touching the tungsten to the workpiece, then quickly backing away to break the tip free while pushing current. If this gets the arc going, then get into the unit and adjust the points on the high freq. board to fit a credit card between them. This is a similar problem I had with my fresh 250.

Guys, He is getting arc from his report...even saying it was plenty but too wide. HF is not like that.

It almost sounds like no or not enough gas flow and burning up the electrode

Is this a new bottle? Could be bad gas if the gas company added some CO2 in the tank. If it is a mixed CO2 depending on the amount of CO2 it will never form the correct type of arc for TIG welding.

I would turn the AC freq (left yellow knob) to the 1 o'clock position and try that, with PULSE OFF, other yellow knob (balance) at 10 o'clock. Set the AMP range for the thickness of what you are trying to weld. All green knobs off for now. That should do it. Of course make sure you start with a clean sharp tungsten and the aluminum is clean. Gas at 8 on our regulator.

If still no puddle and you are sure the torch is in the (-) minus. I would try a friends argon bottle and make sure the gas is not bad. It does happen.

Last, there are point for the HF in the machine and it's rare, but I have seen them interfere on the AC side while welding, something to check anyway and simple. You will want to call in for tech support for that or search for a post on setting the points on the forum.

Ok here's the results, and thanks for the suggestions..

'Doubt' the argon is polluted since I can DC tig with my other machine on that same bottle, although not an inverter. And, my aluminium spool gun welds fine on aluminium with the DC welder/argon..

Tungsten was sharpened (as before), and the AC freq. 1:00/A/C balance 10:00, greens off. Polarity was always torch neg. I did watch "tips'n tricks" :)

Looking through the front grill I can see the points, and the gap looks about right. Maybe 0.30 (maybe less) or about a buisness card. Arc seems stable and constant.

Don't have a problem with HF starting, and the lift seems to work as well. I read another post here about a polluted argon/cO2 mix and that seems like its familiar? Wide arc circle, 'spotted' or mutiple arcing points within the arc circle. No arc focus. A/C Freq. has no real affect when increased.

Problem with swapping/borrowing a bottle is we're pretty remote located, but I did call a more local supplier and he has a 'personal' he's willing to loan for a test. Guess I'll go that way first to prove out the gas.

Not sure if I can get'r done today, but will keep you posted and an update when I can..

Thanks...

Put your balance fully left. Moving your AC frequency up or down should change the pitch of the arc...If it does not, then a wire could be off internally...at the very least you need to call tech support.. You should keep your arc 1/8" or less, preferably the width of your tungsten or less to the metal.

Well we're get'n closer..

I can eliminate the argon.

Brought the amps 'up' and was able to get it to weld pretty nice, and I know aluminium eats amps, but the arc still seems 'splintered' and wide to me? Just seems kind of hard to get a focused arc and if welding anything other than flat, or thick material, seems that it would be hard to puddle. The A/C Feq. does change pitch when adjusted but can't say I see any improvement in the arc width. My foot peddle won't shut of the torch either unless I let it 'snap' back. I'll give a look see as soon as I have time.. Here's a sample weld....

It looks fine. But from the brushing, looks like something is contaminated. Are you trying to ball the tungsten, or is it balling?

Tungsten is dulled. The black in the image is debris from when it slid across my bench after brushing. Not porosity or blackening. Have a new tank of argon coming (the clear supply line they provided kept bleeding of my volume even pulling the clamps to max. a few times,, so I'll 2x clamp ends) so that should take the argon out of the diagnostic loop as far s polluted gas, and some fresh tungstens to see if I can get a better more defined arc...

Thanks for all the help and suggestions...

Are you dulling it intentionally? Or is it dulling itself? IF it is then you need to crank the AC balance fully left, as I suggested. On an inverter it should be fairly sharp, even pointed won't hurt.

That puddle looks pretty oxidation free to me. But to be sure, you should show us what it looks like without wire brushing it at all after welding it. If it was oxidized, though, it was very minor. I would not suspect your argon to be contaminated.

Like Mark's said twice now... AC Balance? Crank it almost, all the way to the left, to get about 80% EN / 20% EP. It will put a lot more heat into the work and off the tungsten, puddling your work rather than your tungsten tip. It will narrow the arc cone and your puddle width, and deepen puddle penetration.

If your footpedal isn't shutting off the arc, check that the microswitch in the footpedal might need a little adjustment to get it to engage say, just .010" sooner. I like to dial my footpedal in for a wide range (so I get very low amps just as the microswitch engages, and as close as possible to maximum amps at full depression.) It's also important to me (I think, for safety) that the microswitch stop the arc *reliably* when the pedal is lifted. The pedal may need a little tweaking.

Only other thing that could cause arc not stopping when pedal is lifted is, if you had your down-slope knob adjusted above zero. (But then "snapping" the footpedal off quickly wouldn't be a work-around) So check and, if needbe adjust your footpedal to allow it to move a bit more, or perhaps bend the microswitch just a bit to make it engage a bit sooner.

On the foot pedal. Don't tweak the switch or paddle on it, but move the rack on the gear, sounds like you are a tooth or two off. Otherwise, sounds/looks like the machine is working fine. Glad you mentioned the black was from sliding it. That did not look good.

Had a little more saddle time today and played with all the settings to find the 'sweet spots' like CGCINC suggested. Different metals/thicknesses and laid down some nice look'n welds :) Or at least after all the sad look'n ones.The foot peddle pretty much worked itself out with some ranging ON/OFF during the weld times.

Thanks for the help, and speedy reponses...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hayapower

Had a little more saddle time today and played with all the settings to find the 'sweet spots' like CGCINC suggested. Different metals/thicknesses and laid down some nice look'n welds :) Or at least after all the sad look'n ones.The foot peddle pretty much worked itself out with some ranging ON/OFF during the weld times.

Thanks for the help, and speedy reponses...

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Glad it helped you out... thats what i did with mine. So many knobs n switches you just gotta fine tune it. THEN you have to remember where you set it!! lol..