Anyone know what thread type and size this machine's 'Gas Outlet' is (i.e. 1/4" FPT)?
I want to get a 3-way ball valve while waiting for my welder to arrive.
Thanks a lot.
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Anyone know what thread type and size this machine's 'Gas Outlet' is (i.e. 1/4" FPT)?
I want to get a 3-way ball valve while waiting for my welder to arrive.
Thanks a lot.
If you mean the gas inlet at the back of the machine, it's a 5/16" hose barb and I don't think it can be changed.
I cut a 10' standard 1/4" pvc air hose (made for use with air compressors) and put about 16" of one end on the air/gas hose barb with a standard 1/4" NPT female quick coupling.
I put a 1/4" NPT male quick coupling in each side of the air pressure regulator that mounts on back of the welder and attached 6' of the air line to the gas flow regulator at the argon tank with a 1/4" NPT male quick coupling at the free end.
To use the plasma cutter, I connect my shop air line to the inlet side of the air regulator mounted to the back of the welder. To weld, I disconnect the air/gas inlet quick coupling from the outlet side of the regulator and plug the line from the argon tank directly into the /airgas inlet.
It takes 10 seconds to switch the lines and no valves are necessary.
Attachment 3319Attachment 3320
Hi, zoama585
Yeah, the marking on the machine in the manual seemed odd to me too.
Thanks for the info and suggestion. Thanks, too, for taking the time to help.
'Appreciate it.
Your pic is of the front panel where the air/gas connect to the plasma or tig torch with a small quick coupling. I added pics to my first post for clarity.Quote:
Originally Posted by qubit
Yup, you're right.
Your setup is about as clean and simple as I can imagine. Thanks again.
Here is how I did it on my PM 256 I have a “T” with two ball valves as shown.
One controls the argon and the other the air for plasma. The air comes in through a water filter with a quick disconnect for the compressed air. I just turn on the gas of choice and turn off the other and that’s how I switch gases.
Have fun
Tom
Nice, Tom. That's where I was going, but with a 3-way valve. I like the idea of a regulator at the machine for more accurate regulation. I assume you have a primary regulator at the compressor for other tools and such.
If memory serves, the manual calls for a max pressure of 80# for plasma cutting. What pressures do you guys use and do you vary the pressure for light/heavy cutting?
I run about 60 PSI but I have not cut thicker that 3/8".
Sounds 'bout right given the manual's max of 80# and the spec sheet's 1" max cut (probably 3/4" in the real world). Doubt I'll exceed your max cut either- streetrods start lookin' pretty klunky with a lot of 3/8" mounting brackets on them ;)
I think I've got a plan now. Thanks for your help.
I thought I would throw add a pic of my valve setup here ... I found a 1/4" FIP cross at the Parker store, which helps to keep the setup pretty small. This is the same as Tom's setup, but the cross let me add a bleeder valve to release the pressure.
Cheers
Mike
For those whom want to do this type of switching between gas lines. this post shows they can see whats out there and the can choose one of come up with another way. Allways more than one way to skin a cat. Back in the day you had to figure things out on your own but with different forums today you can find many ways to do just about anything and where to but the parts too. Life is good.
have fun
Tom
Here's another good resource for compact/inexpensive valves: http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...t-cid-315.html Be careful though, this website is habit forming ... they have sucked several hundred dollars out of my wallet before ;) .Quote:
Originally Posted by acourtjester
I especially like the combo shutoff valve/check valve. I think I'm going to order one and replace the shut off valve on my Everlast supplied Ar regulator. The manifolds might be a good way to go too.
Cheers
Mike