Project #9 From Jason: Valve Spring Swap

Well a friend of mine has a 2.0L 8v VW and had a bad wrist pin causing a loud tick in the motor. At first it sounded as if there was a problem in the head so he ordered a bunch of parts to rebuild the top end. The head was rebuilt at a machine shop who usually does not touch VW engines so the mistake that was made was understandable based on his work but the problem was he installed incorrect valve springs. The company who my friend ordered the parts from sent him springs for a VR6 12v motor. After talking with the company and getting the correct parts in hand, him and I decided that we would change the springs and take know it was done right. The tools used was a magnet, needle nose pliers, flat head screw driver, #10 socket, Alan to remove intake manifold and a leak down detection gauge. From start to finish it was maybe a couple hours. Again I didn't keep track.. I also did not take a ton of pictures but did take some of the process of changing springs.

First is the tools.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2049.jpg

I didn't start with any pics until the top end was open and the cam was out and the followers were out.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2045.jpg

Use the leak down tester to fill the cylinder with air to hold the valve shut while you take the keepers and such off.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2048.jpg

My first picture that showed pressing the springs down is way blurry from being too close while trying both things but here is with the keepers out.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2052.jpg

Use the magnet to get the keepers out and also to get the retainers out. Then the pliers to get the springs.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2054.jpg

Here is the difference from the right and wrong springs. The left ones are correct.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2046.jpg

With the new springs in and the retainers on top, you compress the springs.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2056.jpg

Then drop in the retainers. I set them in with the pliers, use the screw driver to spin the first half around the valve stem and then drop in the second.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2059.jpg

drop in the followers and then put the cam back in.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2064.jpg

And got it closed back up.
Http://www.projekt6.com/jackal/CValv...s/100_2065.jpg

This is where my pics stopped and I have to admit that working on an 8V is a lot easier than my 12v VR6 even though the 8v and 12v have pretty much the same setup. The 24v and 20v are different. The 1.8L 8v is the same as the 2.0L's. I have changed a head on this car in just a couple of hours. It takes me about 20 minutes and I can have the head off of this car.