Printable View
Purchased this fall from Airgas. Millermatic 211 with autoset feature and dual voltage. Nice machine works great, and I do love the welder; just wanting to upgrade. Still have the receipt for the warranty. Will sell for $975.00 shipped in the continental U.S. Will post pictures, have for sale on Welding Web.
What are you upgrading to?
Cool Sean,
Now I can covet your welder (along with the new one from TwistedFabrication, WW for $925) on two separate sites. welding web and here. Is it on e-bay as well?
Thurmond
I still use it, but since I have two Everlast Welders I would like to get an Imig 200 or Imig 200p. It's a good welder I just want something that will run better off my generator, and it's heavy to lug around.
Sold!
Just ordered the Imig 200!!!!
Sean,
Be sure when you get your 200 that you notice that the arc force DOES work in MIG mode. Typo in the manual....Unfortunately the manual is going to have to be completely redone because the original has been destroyed thanks to a crash and will need to be rewritten word for word, etc. to make the correction.
Then be sure to let people know how nice it welds. Turn your arc force to about 3-4 oclock for most things.
Congrats on selling the 211. I'd like to know from a former owner of a 211 your thoughts.
yes, definitely do NOT weld MIG with the arc force up. I played around with it for a while after I realized that it was still functional in MIG mode and I found little difference between 0-4, but I settled on 0 as being marginally better for vertical up, so there it stays.
with the arc force on 10, the wire beads up to about a 1/8" sphere then decides either to melt in and stick or fall on your foot.
The mosquito whine Ogorir is probably what your used to then. But More inductance results in better wetting in.You've probably welded with units with low inductance, like Miller. I am used to ESAB. Here's what a weld looks like at the level I described. Low inductance as you recommend leaves a tale tale ridge in the middle.Attachment 2532Attachment 2530Attachment 2531
interesting, those look similar to my beads doing cursive 'e's. I only ever get(on the IMIG) or got(on my dad's millermatic 185) the ridge running stringers. I'll have to remember to turn the arc force up next time I need to run a stringer. I've been running a quick stringer in some deep vee joints (2" sq tubing butted against a flat plate) to make damn sure the root is good and hot, then doing a cover pass. I've had a couple of joints that gravity/geometry just wasn't letting the puddle melt down to the root while doing the e's.
I found that I was getting more of a ridge and a less desirable profile with the inductance turned up and the voltage backed off so it wasn't burning the wire off before it hit the puddle.
Is the wetting in you're talking about cosmetic, or are you getting better penetration and/or flow down into the root of a joint (thinking lap joints)?
Related story on the IMIG-200 that happened last night,
My son was out two nights ago and it was windy, so he went to stick. Turned up the arc force and did his thing. He and a buddy are building my long awaited brake (Like Scooter's, just 1" wider). Last night he was having a heck of a time MIGing, he called me. I told him drop the arc force to 3-4. He was like, huh. Problem solved, but the nozzle looked a bit rough and we changed the contact tip too. Yes, it is on when in MIG and I am sure he never looked at the manual either way.
Ogorir, Those aren't cursive e's. Its a simple weave... a slight C maybe.
Concerning "wetting in". Its not a cosmetic thing. Its a structural thing. It means that instead of having to hold the torch right over the weld to heat the material, the edges around the weld pool tend to "wick" up the puddle, making it appear as if the the side of cold side of the puddle is sucking up the weld, and puddle overall has good fluidity. The edges of a weld where you don't get good wet in will often be lumpy or "humped" over with cold lap. Wetting in is just the opposite of cold lap. If you notice, in the middle picture, there is some cold lap right at the beginning right side of the weld. It was caused from me starting in front and running back over the tack, not giving much time to wet in. I was more concerned about laying a big hump over the substantial tack I had made than wet in at that point. So the result is a lump anyway.lol.
The weld was done with .30 70-s6 wire, C 18 Airgas Argon/CO2. 16.8 V and about 195-205 on wire feed speed.
Concerning theadditional input of all the others on this....What I think may have happened is that they reversed the arc force direction on the pots after the first generation of MIGs. On my test unit, the wire melts off right at the puddle on a setting of 3-4 stacking up a ridge. Its good for out of position so the puddle stays relatively cool. But I turn it up to the point that gives more of a raspy sizzle than a whine.