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just curious if anyone's tried it yet. I have a gas valve torch on the way, but the non-gas-thru small dinse plug was backordered, so I'm still waiting.
I've never done scratch start before. I learned on a Lincoln PrecisionTIG 185 which has a nice footpedal. I've got a nice chunk of copper I plan on starting arcs on to reduce arc strike marks, but any other tips would be appreciated.
Ogorir,Quote:
Originally Posted by ogorir
No one has answered your post, so I'll jump in but be aware that others are more qualified.
The problem with your project is that the VOLTAGE is selected on a MIG welder, and the arc CURRENTvaries with the arc length.
With a Tig welder (and also with a stick welder), the CURRENT is selected and the arc VOLTAGE varies with the arc length.
So it may be easier to cobble together a scratch Tig welder with a Stick welder rather than with a Mig welder.
FWIW,
rivets
alright. looks like no one (save for everlast staff maybe? you guys try it?) has done scratch start w/ the I-MIG. I guess I'll have to post a video when the damn torch gets here :(
and if the mods think this would get more attention in the tig forum, please move it. I posted it here because I'm talking about using the I-MIG and the forum sections seem to be by welder type, not type of welder.
Scratch start shouldn't be a problem.
Rivets, all our migs feature stick welding/CC function.
I got my torch yesterday. forgot to order collets (plenty of collet bodies, though) so I had to run over to the LWS and grab some. they only had 3/32", so I still need to get some 1/16"
that WP-9 is TINY, jeez. I knew they were smaller, but holy crap!
I had to drill more clearance in the neg quick-turn plug and grind down the rim of the panel connector on the I-MIG to work with weld-craft's 1/4 turn locks. I took a picture, but I haven't pulled it off my phone yet. works fine now.
the I-MIG welds REALLY hot. like... full penetration on 1/8" angle at 60a. I think this is because the voltage is about double what a dedicated TIG would be, so it's roughly double the power. the amperage control only goes down to 31A, so welding thin sheetmetal is a challenge. it's doable, but the HAZ is a lot bigger than I'd like, so I probably won't be using it near as much as I was expecting to.
having more low-amp control would be a great feature in the next revision of the I-MIG, although, it seems I'm the only one trying to run TIG with it right now, and I'm not planning on buying another one just for that feature.
anyway, pictures later.
Ogorir,
That is why we are offering the MTS series. There are no plans for any modification to the current I MIGs in that respect. However, 60 amps and 1/8" is about right for full penetration on many machines that I have used.
to clarify, are the machines you're referring to being about right stick machines, or dedicated tig machines? the only TIG I have any significant experience with is a lincoln precisionTIG 185, and it was pretty close to the 1A per 0.001" rule of thumb. that was always a tad hot, but in the ballpark.
What you experienced is the difference between inverters and transformer machines. I never used that rule. Its an old one established before even transformer squarewave machines came out. I am used to running inverters...I have used 55- 60 amps to weld 1/8" steel with XMT series units from Miller...they do it all.(except AC). I have used the transformer precision tig 225 and found them a little weak but not much behind the Miller and Everlast units. I have used TA's as well...All seem about level. The Dynasty's are about the same, a little cooler, but each machine will have its own characteristics. There aren't many if any DEDICATED TIG machines out there. The units usually have both circuits in them. Even the synchrowave makes an excellent stick welder.
I have an IMIG 205. A while back I bought a 17v style torch on clearance from HF for 47 cents I believe it was. the product was discontinued. I wanted a lighter air cooled torch for my 256 and it was a cheap way to get in. I have, just for the hell of it hooked that torch up to my imig to try the scratch start method and it performed fine. I wouldnt normally use it that way but since it had that feature I just wanted to try it. Scratch start is kind of a booger anyway for obvious reasons. When I do low amperage tig I tend to hold the torch more by the head than the handle and just lean it over where the cup is touching the workpiece and scratch it that way. it helps to keep it from sticking on start.
Did you feel it was a much hotter weld?