first try at 2g pipe welding

This is my first of many attempt at welding 6" diameter 1/4" thick steel pipe in the 2g position. I beveled both edges, but didnt have the best fitup. I ran the first pass with a 1/8 inch 6011 at 80 amps dcep where the gap was big and 95 amps dcep where the gap was small. I ran the next two passes with a 3/32 7018 at 90 amps dcep. Due to the crappy fitup, I didnt always get a nice keyhole. I plan on doing some more practicing later on.
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...e/CIMG2566.jpg
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...e/CIMG2561.jpg
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...e/CIMG2568.jpg

As a former Boilermaker welder making high pressure welds.... you do need some practice, but just trying to weld pipe is a great start. Practice will make perfect is true, so don't get discouraged. As a tip to you , and you may know this already.... take your welding rod and bend it so that it looks like a ? mark before sticking it into the stinger. This allows you to get closer to the surfaces and easier to control the finish product. It also makes the stick and electrode roll easier around the pipe, which follows the contour of the pipe. You don't get to use the entire stick but it does make it smoother weld. Also, fit up just needs to be close, the rods will do the job of filling. The biggest concern is keeping the pipes straight. It sucks welding long pieces together and you don't want to make a u-turn out of it, and have to cut it apart later. Remember to have fun, that's what welding is all about.

Several things I see. Not trying to be critical, only helpful.

1) Undercut at the top. You need to pause at the top to fill completely. You are swiping down before you fill the top.
2) I assume you are using DC, or at least you should be...but 90 amps is probably a little too high for 3/32 7018in this position. You need about 75.
3) Slag on the top pass looks like its being rolled into the toes. Watch your rod angle, and arc length and move steadily.
4) PUSH your rod into the gap on the root. (IF you are using the hobart you have in the sig, it may just not be able to do it) Step it...Pause until you melt it through. Use a welding rod with the flux broke off to provide the gap. Bend it into a U shape and insert it into the gap. Tack it all the way around. 6011 is ok, but 6010 will cut out the key hole better.
5) Watch your restarts. You have to start in front of the crater, and long arc back to the orginal pit. Let it start and fill the crater to make a smooth transition. Its one of the hardest things I think most people have to learn to do when starting out welding.

Thanks a ton for all the tips. I plan on doing some more practice welds this weekend. Im going to cut the pipe into sections and use my lathe to cut the bevel instead of grinding on them so they will fit together nicer.

I have only burned about 5 pounds total of 6011/7018's since I started stick welding so I knew it wasn't going to look too good. I'm just getting started with this. I'm not gonna be happy until it looks perfect.:D:D

any reason your not running 6010 on your roots

I would like to give that a go. Where can I get some pipe like that? Also what would be a good price?

@ wookie, I didn't have any 6010s on hand. I figured a 6011 was close enough for what it was.

@ Mikeymetal, I pulled it out of a dumpster at work. I believe its 6" schedule 40 pipe though.