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I made this beam for a loft in my shop. It spans 26' 9" and is 12" tall. I built it out of 4 pieces of 1 1/4"x 1 1/4" x 1/8" angle and a piece of 3/8" rod that I bent back and forth at 90 degree angles. I had to splice every piece so that I could get it to the right length. I am not a engineer but I welded it with a 3/4" crown and the way it sets now it still has a 3/8" crown it does not flex it is very solid. Now I have a place to put more stuff!:D
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I built a similar loft in my shop last week. Mine spans 38' 8" and I made it 10' deep. I considered a joist design like yours, but then I chose to simply put 4 posts under the 2 x 8's.
I like your open design. I may copy that for my next 2 storage lofts on the sides of the shop. They will be 4' deep by 34' long, so I don't want to use posts as they will interfere with the work tables under them.
Have you considered adding a couple light fixtures in between the floor joists?
looks good
Yes I have, eventually I will get some light under there, I really need it over the saw so I can see what I am doing. But right now I seem to spend my spare time learning to weld on the new PT250EX. Good luck with your new additional overhead storage area.Quote:
Originally Posted by A/C Guy
One thing you need to bare in mind is a joist like this generally have the top chord fully braced by decking, In your case top chord buckling is limited only by how well you attached your ledger - kind of a complicated analysis. Also the bottom chord is not really meant for loading. If you check out the Steel Joist Institute web site you should find some info on loading joists.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty
From what I can see that trust was built for some serious floor loading. That trust looks very similar ones we have in boiler room floors. They support a steel deck with a 4" concrete on top on 24" spacings. I would suspect it can carry a fairly heavy load. My only concern is with the attachments to the wall and the bearing surfaces on each end of the truss. Our building codes (up here) typically require a minimum 3" load bearing surface. I would suspect your building codes will be fairly similar. It appears your bearing those loads on a 1 1/2" bearing surface? I am not sure how the floor joists are attached to the block wall, but blocks are very weak in respect to horizontal loading or pull out resistance. I would be inclined to have these checked before adding any additional weight. I am not criticizing your workmanship simply pointing out possible areas of concern from a structural stand point.
nice job there, you my friend just gave me a great idea for a soon to be travel trailer/carport cover project.
for Sh*ts and giggles I modeled on the computer with a 50#/ft dead load and a 100#/ft live (storage) load and the 3/8" rod is overstressed as much as 145% - especially at the ends where the web members do most of the work. if you look at a manufactured bar-joist the web members are small but bigger near the supports. heaviest loaded diagonal is the last one on each end. Deflections are OK @ full 150 PLF loadQuote:
Originally Posted by sm95m