anyone use them? I was thinking about picking afew up
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anyone use them? I was thinking about picking afew up
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgarnier
I was thinking about getting some here and there. But they are kind of pricey for what they are. I have read that they offer a smoother gas distribution which provides a better sheild. That and you can see what you are doing more... Seeing hasn't really ever been THAT much of a problem for me though.
I'm using the HTP Pyrex cup kit and like it a lot.
The Pyrex cups comes with the Gas Saver Kit. You might be able to get the cups themselves but the cups are not what helps the gas flow. Their collet body is what helps the flow patern. It's suposed to use less gas as well as let you stick the tungsten further out of the cup.
They claim they use up to 40% less gas so it should pay for itself fairly quickly.
I'm a welder/machinist in the Air National Guard and my shop in the ANG has them. So far we only use them when we're welding inside the exhaust of our jet's ancient TF-33 engines, (which is quite often). The clear cup really helps in close or obstructed positions when you can't get your head in a normal viewing position and the cup would normally obstruct your view.
I'm going to get the whole gas saver kit soon and I'm looking forward to comparing it to a normal gas lense and see how much less gas it uses.
The "Gas Saver" is one brand of gas lens setup. I don't think it provides better shielding performance, or better gas usage/consumption efficiency than other good gas lens setups available on the market (such as the less expensive, and more commonly available weldcraft style.)
It does have the clear pyrex cup and there are some other things unique about it as well. But as far as the pyrex cup feature goes, there is also only one size/diameter of the clear pyrex cup that is available for each gas saver collet body setup. Whereas the alumina cups (such as on the weldcraft style gas lens setups) are generally available in a variety of sizes, all the way down to a #4. If you weld steel or aluminum, you can save some gas by going to a gas lens setup with an appropriately sized cup, which will for most common jobs, probably be smaller in diameter than the pyrex glass version.
So if you order one and really expect to save any gas when welding aluminum and mild steel while using it, get some of the optional smaller diameter "push on" alumina cups that are available for it.
Here are the CK part numbers for it (scroll down for the "Gas Saver" parts):
http://www.ckworldwide.com/2series.pdf
http://www.ckworldwide.com/3series.pdf
I was looking for for the being able to see the weld pool better, most of the work I need to do will be on a boat, no bench work
I have heard bad things about them in the bike frame world. They were very popular until people got their hands on them, now everyone seems to have moved back to standard lenses, This includes not only the frame guys, but guys who supply them and weld heavier fixtures and stuff.
http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum...ood-19580.html
The guy in post three is a bit of a welding god, and super machinist. I follow what he says, not to say there aren't other opinions or areas of use where results would vary, as with the ANG stuff here.
You'll see better at a cost. I read the 3rd post you mentioned. Mark, Kenwhite, myself and probably others have mentioned what he states here. Toward the end of this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomD
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ht=atmospheric
I think Mark has a "knowledge database" article as well if you look for shield gas selection in the titles.
That Champagne Nozzle looks interesting. Anyone have any experience with it.
I'm probably going to need something that I can get more tungsten stick out with so I can weld multiple tubes intersecting the same spot on Jr dragster chassis.
Wildbill -
You could always just go with the "industry standard" large diameter gas lens collet body, and matching #12 cup setup.
Here are the CK part numbers you would need to make this setup work on your CK20 torch:
2GL116LD+2C116LD or 2GL332LD+2C332LD (collet body and collet for 1/16" tungsten or 3/32" tungsten)
2GHSLD (heat shield for CK #9/20 style torch)
3AG12LD (#12 cup)
http://www.ckworldwide.com/2series.pdf
Note that weldcraft and other manufacturers make equivalent (and interchangeable) part numbers to the above, except for the heat shield, which is specific for a CK torch.
OK, first I tried the large cup and a screen and while it did allow me to weld with the tungsten stuck out farther than I thought possible I must say that found that every time I had to grind the tungsten I had to readjust or comply reset the screen and it was kinda a PITA. A more experienced welder would not have anywhere near this problem but being still fairly green to all this it gets kind frustrating http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ies/laugh2.gif
So I ordered this kit off of E Bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/TIG-Welding-Weld...item2ea482a58b
Seemed a lot more cost effective and didn't include a bunch of stuff I already have many of.
Now, so far I just got it and couldn't resist making a couple test passes and I have to say I'm really happy with it. I think this just might be the ticket for me.
Time will tell of course. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ilies/luck.gif