The E7018 is probably the most revered welding rod in the industry. With the reverence it commands, a lot of people jump at the chance to use it. It’s a master of structural steel welding and makes a near perfect weld in skilled hands. The problem is that while it offers the potential of a strong, high quality weld, special care must be taken to preserve its low hydrogen properties that give it the qualities it has. Many of the new people interested in learning to weld are not aware of the storage and handling requirements it has to get the most out of the rods. The low hydrogen properties that prevent weld problems like under bead cracking are lost if moisture enters the rod. Moisture ingresses fairly rapidly into the iron powder and titania flux so the rods must be perpetually heated to hold moisture at bay. All 7018 rods should be kept in a special oven to keep them dry. They also should be purchased in a vacuum sealed container. Many companies will sell them in cardboard boxes or in plastic containers. Unless the welding electrodes are baked at 600 degrees F for several hours, they are not considered safe for critical work. E7018 have several suffix designations which indicate the varying degrees of moisture resistance. Regular non suffix rods are considered acceptable for use out of the oven for only 4 hours. Welding rods that see more time than that out of the oven should be discarded or rebaked at 600 degrees (depending upon exact manufacturer and code requirements). The suffix designation of HR4 allows the stick electrodes to be held out up to 8 hours, again depending upon exact code requirements. Either way, the rods should be stored in an airtight container while away from the oven. 7018 rods can be used with AC “buzz” boxes, though arc starting is much more difficult, and sticking can become an issue. Additionally, higher amperage is required. Reverse polarity (DCEP) is best. A special rod is produced with the designation of 7018 AC that works much better with the cheap transformer welders. However storage requirements are not changed, and it’s unlikely that most people with “buzz” boxes will have the storage ovens required to keep the 7018 at its best. There is not much advantage to using a moisture rich 7018 over another rod like the 7014. Ductility may be a little better, but underbead cracking becomes a problem. For the added cost and additional storage requirements, the 7018 is typically not the best rod choice for most hobbyists and small repair shops. Larger shops do have rod ovens and can buy large, 50lb sealed containers which make it a more economical choice. However for the average user, not doing code work in the construction or pipe industry, the 7014 may be a better choice.
Posts Tagged ‘stick welding’
Selecting the right filler metal – Part 5 SMAW E 7018
Wednesday, November 30th, 2011Selecting the right filler Metal – Part 4 SMAW AWS E7014
Monday, November 28th, 2011“Once you try 7014, you’ll throw rocks at those other rods.” Thinking back to that comment made jokingly by my long-in-the-tooth welding instructor in college, I often get a chuckle. But what he said in hyperbole is really not that far from the truth. The 7014 is a great rod. Some professionals tend to dismiss it, largely because they haven’t used it and tend to stick to the code required 7018. Alongside the E 7018, the E7014 matches the 70,000 lb tensile strength and is fairly similar in weld appearance. But it is different in the fact that it is distinctly easier to start an arc and the flow of the metal is unmatched. The iron powdered flux creates a full slag coating that releases so effortlessly that a mere brushing is all that is needed. It is an all purpose welding rod designed for high speed fabrication. Technically classified as a “fill-freeze” welding rod, it lays down a bead about as fast as the “jet” rods. It is also an all position rod that can be quite easily manipulated, and works well with a “weave” pattern. Many shops use this rod for fabrication duties and repair of heavy equipment for areas where MIG isn’t practical. Its drawback is that ductility is a little bit less, and it is not considered low hydrogen so it’s not traditionally relied upon for code work. But then again, no special storage requirements are needed for it and it holds up well without keeping it hot and dry in a rod oven. For people that don’t have storage capabilities and don’t want to treat a welding rod with kid gloves, but want a strong weld and smooth welding experience, the 7014 is a rod that offers the best of both worlds.
Selecting the right filler Metal – Part 3 SMAW AWS E6013
Friday, November 25th, 2011Though it isn’t as much of a commercially popular rod as the E6010 in the US, the E6013 is a welding rod that finds much use in other countries in place of the E6010 and E6011. It’s a much more smooth and easy flowing rod, though penetration is relatively shallow. It’s often derisively referred to in the US as a “sheet metal” rod, referring to its limited penetration. That’s not all bad though. It simply means it’s a more forgiving rod. For beginners, this is an excellent rod for confidence building. Even a beginner can make a passable weld soon after picking the rod up. Slag is heavy and is easily separated away from the weld. In fact, if the weld is properly made with the correct amps and technique, the slag should “curl” up off the weld and little or no effort is required to remove it. Overseas, in other countries, the 6013 is used for root pass welds. The rod does not freeze as quickly as the 6010 or 6011, but because of the smoothness of the weld and easily removed slag, it has been adopted in place of the 6010. But what is more important is that this rod is very versatile and works well for many hobby welders and small shops. Sharing the same 60,000 lb tensile strength rating, it theoretically is capable of making as strong of a weld, though there is a difference in ductility. The iron powder coating on the 6013 makes this rod a fast deposit rod, meaning that the weld lays down much faster than the 6010 or 6011. For light gauge welding, the 6013 has no rival. Thin material easily welds without fear of burning big holes in the metal. The stable smooth arc that is characteristic of the 6013 makes it a joy to weld with. One problem that can be experienced with the 6013 is a problem commonly referred to as “wagon tracking”. This is a problem where slag, because of its plentifulness, can be rolled into the edge or center of the weld. This is usually a result of too low of amperage or too extreme of a rod angle. With a little practice, however, this problem is fairly well managed. Reverse polarity is typically used for this rod, though it will weld well with AC “buzz” boxes as well. Whether you are wanting to get your toes wet or just wanting to add another rod to your arsenal the 6013 is a quick study for joining mild steel.
Selecting the right filler metal – Part 2 SMAW AWS E6010
Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011The last time, we looked at the E6011. This time we’ll look at it’s big brother the E6010. Granted, the 6010 is a difficult rod to use, and not for the average user to take on in the beginning. It has a cellulosic flux, and very hard driving arc that offers exceptional penetration. Like the 6011, it too has a 60,000 lb tensile strength rating. But for Pipeline, Construction, and large fab shop it is the primary rod used for stick welding in root pass situations. Its ability to penetrate and the quickly “freeze” quickly makes it great for open root welds. The weld isn’t the prettiest. The hard edge left to the ripples and the difficult to remove flux makes it less than fun to weld with for most people. But no one can deny that the rod is King when it comes to X ray and code work. It’s available in several configurations that add one property or another. You’ll see designations such as 5P or 5P+, each identifying the individual special properties for the rod. Though to the average user, there won’t be much difference in casual use. It is similar as we mentioned, to the E6011. But, it just won’t weld worth two cents on a cheap buzz box welder. It requires higher voltage and a more stable DC current output to keep the arc going. This factor alone, takes the rod out of the hands of many users…Even many smaller portable repair guys shy away from it because it’s nature to be a little eccentric in its taste for welding machines. Yes, mastering the 6010 is a valuable welding skill, but for most people the 6011 happily and easily eliminates the need for it. But if your future is in pipeline or heavy industrial 6010 will definitely be a rod worth your time and effort.
Angle of the Dangle: Resolving welding issues with torch angle adjustment
Thursday, October 27th, 2011A new weldor can often be plagued with curious and aggravating weld issues that often lead to a great deal of frustration. Even occasionally it will occur with seasoned veterans of the welding field as well. Often times occurring after a long day of welding or when fatigue is likely to set in. These symptoms are not necessarily exclusive to only one type of weld process. They can occur while stick, mig, or tig welding when conditions are right. Symptoms can include inconsistent porosity issues, slag or silicone trapped in the toes of the weld, inconsistent weld bead formation, without fusing on both sides or piling of the weld on one side or the other, dirty looking welds or even large amounts of spatter.
All these issues can usually be traced to improper torch angle. A weldor has to monitor two angles of the torch position relative to the work surface and the weld.
1. The torch angle relative to the direction of the weld. If TIG welding, particularly noticeable in aluminum, a steep angle greater than 15 degrees from vertical can result in a siphoning effect with the gas flow, pulling in air from behind the weld in to the molten puddle. Usually the angle should be with the torch reclining toward the weld area already welded, with the tungsten pointed toward the front edge of the puddle. Also, the arc can be projected too far forward creating instability issues. The weldor can suffer similar issues while welding MIG as well. However, the torch can be pointed either in the pushing or pulling direction. Whether a forward or rear leaning approach is taken, the penetration and weld width will change. While stick welding too great of an angle causes multiple symptoms, including porosity, and weld rolling into the toes of the weld. In general the torch angle should “lead” the weld, and the torch should seem to be dragging the weld along. Again the 15 degree rule should apply.
2. The angle relative to the sides of the weld should be monitored as well. This second plane is responsible for even distribution of the heat. Improper fusion of the weld will result or overheating of one side of the metal can be seen by following the heat lines. This angle can be manipulated however, to join dissimilar thicknesses by focusing more heat on the thicker material. However, when joining the same thickness of material the torch should be held vertical as possible to the weld with the torch/electrode even distanced from either side of the weld. This applies to TIG, MIG and Stick processes of welding.
As a new weldor, if you suspect you are seeing transient problems, inspect your torch angle. Many problems can be solved by concentrating on the torch angle. If they don’t resolve, then you should proceed to suspecting other causes of the problem such as contaminated gas, or dirty metal, or insufficient gas flow.
Avoiding cold lap
Friday, October 21st, 2011To the uninitiated, the term cold lap may seem more like a medical condition that a welding term. While in reality cold lap is a serious condition, it is a welding related problem. Cold lap in welding has a lot to with poor welding technique. To a novice weldor, it may look like a nice “fat” weld that might have strong rounded look to the top of the weld. Upon closer inspection though cold lap will show light fusion along the edge or “toes” of the weld. There may be a visible line along the area of the weld where it meets the base metal, or a dotted line appearance along the weld “toes”.
Cold lap is typically created by welding with too little heat or incorrect travel speed or technique. Its not uncommon to see cold lap while MIG welding, steel or aluminum, since many people run too low of voltage with too high of wire speed to try to make a nice stack of dimes look. It’s far better to have a smooth appearance of the weld than to have a nice looking “bead” that is not properly fused.
Stick welding can create cold lap by trying to weave too wide of a weld and “over-reinforcing the weld” and not properly pausing to heat up the edge of the weld so that the filler metal and the base metal will actually fuse. A slow moving low amp weld will pile up weld in the center, and allow the bead to spill over before it is fused to the side of the weld groove.
Though possible to create a cold lap or improperly fused weld with a TIG welder, cold lap is less likely, if a small amount of filler is added at a time and the torch is worked side to side to make sure the filler wets in to the side.
Cold lap can occur in out of position welds such as horizontal welds where gravity works to pull the molten metal, but careful manipulation by holding the weld to the top side longer than the bottom side will keep the weld from lapping over.
Cold lap can be difficult to spot initially, but look for bulges along the edge of the weld or lines that form between the filler metal and the weld itself. Another sign of cold lap is where slap may be difficult to remove and sticks to the edge of the weld.
Polarity: When should it be reversed? Part 1
Monday, October 10th, 2011Any one that has been around welding for a short period of time knows a little about the term “Polarity”.But quite a few new comers find the correct use of polarity a confusing issue, though it need not be. A lot has been written on the internet about polarity, and this blog will undoubtedly add to that information. But, hopefully it’ll be easier to understand than some of the other ponderous articles written about it.

Polarity ?
Polarity is simply a term to describe the whether the electrode is a cathode or anode. Quite simply it refers to whether the electrode is emitting (negative polarity) or receiving electrons (positive polarity). These terms are related to DC welders only. Welders that output AC current have no need to refer to polarity. So if you are welding with an old AC buzz box welder, polarity is of no consequence to you. But if you are welding with new inverter welder, or even an old DC transformer welder, it is. Sometimes you may see the terms DCEP or DCEN. These refer to Direct Current, Electrode Positive, or Direct Current Electrode Negative. Polarity is always marked on a DC welder and will usually bear a simple negative (-) or positive (+) sign. Whenever a polarity change is required, the electrode (sometimes referred to as a torch) should be inserted into the side with the marking that corresponds to the polarity recommended.
Simple huh? Well, not that simple. A lot of old texts and “old school” welders will often refer to the terms of “Straight Polarity” and “Reverse Polarity”. Straight polarity refers to negative polarity. Reverse polarity refers to positive polarity. While that may seem to make sense, if you think about electrons always flowing from negative to positive poles, it is confusing when it is applied to several different welding processes such as stick and MIG welding.
Basics of Arc Welding
Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011Welding is a very easy process to learn about. Arc welding and stick welding are one of the most basic and common welding techniques that are initially thought to every welding student. Arc welding can be thought in four basic steps.
Step1: Equip yourself with safety accessories before you enter the domain to weld. This is a must irrespective of what your experience in welding is. Even the most experienced, brilliant welder has to take care of safety precautions before he starts to weld.
Step2: Always work with clean metals. This is a preparatory stage of welding. Clean your work piece properly before you work upon it.
Step3: Check for the welding earth connection. Make sure it is good. You are mainly using electricity to carry out the task of welding and if your earth connection is not good enough, you are most likely to mess up the task. An area of potential problems can be eliminated
Step4: Strike the arc properly. This is one of the biggest concerns for any welder and there are only three possible ways to do it;
• Flick up from an edge
• Strike like a match/scratch it
• Tap it straight down, then back up
Hold the rod as straight as possible.
Basics of Arc Welding
Tuesday, April 5th, 2011Welding is a very easy process to learn about. Arc welding and stick welding are one of the most basic and common welding techniques that are initially thought to every welding student. Arc welding can be thought in four basic steps.
Step1: Equip yourself with safety accessories before you enter the domain to weld. This is a must irrespective of what your experience in welding is. Even the most experienced, brilliant welder has to take care of safety precautions before he starts to weld.
Step2: Always work with clean metals. This is a preparatory stage of welding. Clean your work piece properly before you work upon it.
Step3: Check for the welding earth connection. Make sure it is good. You are mainly using electricity to carry out the task of welding and if your earth connection is not good enough, you are most likely to mess up the task. An area of potential problems can be eliminated
Step4: Strike the arc properly. This is one of the biggest concerns for any welder and there are only three possible ways to do it;
- Flick up from an edge
- Strike like a match/scratch it
- Tap it straight down, then back up
Hold the rod as straight as possible.
Tips for Field Repair
Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011It is important to have the best of quality equipments and immense knowledge in welding along with at most concentration when we are working with welding applications. Selecting proper engine driven welding generators, plasma cutters and other repair tools helps you to prevent downtime by fixing repair works right at the first time.
Equipment repair is adds up to your vows more compared to the complications you encounter while you weld. Every minute your machine turns down is a minute of lost time and minutes turn to hours when servicing those machines. Immense knowledge and experience in welding enables you to estimate the right kind of tools you always would need for the job and helps you to reduce downtime drastically and finish off the work quickly. At the end of the day your intelligence and quality of equipments predicts the outcome whether it’s a profitable one or not.
In order to finish off the field repair there are five basic steps you need to follow;
1. Cut out broken steel with Oxy-fuel, Plasma or Carbon arc Gouging. This is the initial step when it comes to field repair. Most contractors have oxy fuel equipments for cutting, brazing, soldering, and preheating welding surfaces
2. Match and cut replacement steel. Match your equipments based upon their strengths and replace them. Cut your steel to its required size.
3. Preheat to eliminate cracking. Fill the replacement steel to find irregularities and check its fitting. After achieving proper fit, preheat the surface with oxy-fuel equipment.
4. Electrode Selection and Welding Technique. Mostly stick welding technique is preferred.
5. Select your welding system. This factor depends upon the electrodes you have chosen in the previous step.