Archive for October, 2011

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Angle of the Dangle: Resolving welding issues with torch angle adjustment

Thursday, October 27th, 2011

A new weldor can often be plagued with curious and aggravating weld issues that often lead to a great deal of frustration. Even occasionally it will occur with seasoned veterans of the welding field as well. Often times occurring after a long day of welding or when fatigue is likely to set in. These symptoms are not necessarily exclusive to only one type of weld process. They can occur while stick, mig, or tig welding when conditions are right. Symptoms can include inconsistent porosity issues, slag or silicone trapped in the toes of the weld, inconsistent weld bead formation, without fusing on both sides or piling of the weld on one side or the other, dirty looking welds or even large amounts of spatter.

All these issues can usually be traced to improper torch angle. A weldor has to monitor two angles of the torch position relative to the work surface and the weld.

1.  The torch angle relative to the direction of the weld. If TIG welding, particularly noticeable in aluminum, a steep angle greater than 15 degrees from vertical can result in a siphoning effect with the gas flow, pulling in air from behind the weld in to the molten puddle. Usually the angle should be with the torch reclining toward the weld area already welded, with the tungsten pointed toward the front edge of the puddle. Also, the arc can be projected too far forward creating instability issues. The weldor can suffer similar issues while welding MIG as well. However, the torch can be pointed either in the pushing or pulling direction. Whether a forward or rear leaning approach is taken, the penetration and weld width will change. While stick welding too great of an angle causes multiple symptoms, including porosity, and weld rolling into the toes of the weld. In general the torch angle should “lead” the weld, and the torch should seem to be dragging the weld along. Again the 15 degree rule should apply.

2.  The angle relative to the sides of the weld should be monitored as well. This second plane is responsible for even distribution of the heat. Improper fusion of the weld will result or overheating of one side of the metal can be seen by following the heat lines. This angle can be manipulated however, to join dissimilar thicknesses by focusing more heat on the thicker material. However, when joining the same thickness of material the torch should be held vertical as possible to the weld with the torch/electrode even distanced from either side of the weld. This applies to TIG, MIG and Stick processes of welding.

As a new weldor, if you suspect you are seeing transient problems, inspect your torch angle. Many problems can be solved by concentrating on the torch angle. If they don’t resolve, then you should proceed to suspecting other causes of the problem such as contaminated gas, or dirty metal, or insufficient gas flow.

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Learning on the fast track: Budget money for practice material

Monday, October 24th, 2011

As a member of the technical support team at Everlast, it seems that every day or so I get a call from a guy learning to weld, just having bought one of our units. Typically he will be desperately looking for some advice on some new way to be an instant welder, after reading all the info he can scarf up and watching videos on line until he feels he should be able to weld competently upon the first arc strike. Of course, upon getting less than spectacular results, I receive a call.

One of the first things I try to assess is the metal that they are working with. More often than not, I hear from them that they have a couple of pieces of rebar, some old bed rails or some old exhaust tubing they got from a muffler shop.  To say the least, most times it’s less than less than ideal material. As a professional, it makes me cringe, but I do understand the dilemma. You scrap to save money for a newwelder purchase, and when you get it, you have nothing left for metal. Welding is an expensive hobby. Metal prices have been rapidly going up, and where it will stop, is any one’s guess. But having sufficient quantities of quality metal to begin practice on is important. It’s not necessary to purchase full sheets of metal to practice on, but it does require sufficient amounts to be able to repeat the same weld over and over. My recommendation is to go and purchase flat bar stock from a local steel supplier. Two inch wide pieces in at least 1/8” and ¼” thicknesses are quite adequate. These pieces can be cut up into short 4”-6” pieces and can be arranged in a variety of positions and joint types. A full 20 foot stick can yield lots of experience. The fresh, new steel relatively free of rust will guarantee a more enjoyable learning experience. Quarter inch thick pieces can be beveled as well so that open root welds can be practiced.

Someone new to welding may not realize that there is likely a steel supply house within driving distance to them most places in the United States. Large home stores, and farm supply stores often have short pieces of bar stock or small pieces of plate steel. Unfortunately these prices are the very things that drive people to experiment welding on pieces of rusted, or painted junk steel. Typically, you will find that a full piece of steel, aluminum, or stainless costs as much to buy as does the tiny pre-cut pieces in the local hardware chain. Buying from the steel supplier can be a daunting experience the first time, learning the jargon and short hand used at a fast moving pace, but it will save money in the pocket book. It will also help reduce early learning stresses by offering ideal working, and practice conditions. So if the prices of steel at the local supply house are making you wish you had saved money and looked around for a used welder, then go to the phone book and find you a good local steel supply house.

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Avoiding cold lap

Friday, October 21st, 2011

To the uninitiated, the term cold lap may seem more like a medical condition that a welding term. While in reality cold lap is a serious condition, it is a welding related problem. Cold lap in welding has a lot to with poor welding technique. To a novice weldor, it may look like a nice “fat” weld that might have strong rounded look to the top of the weld. Upon closer inspection though cold lap will show light fusion along the edge or “toes” of the weld. There may be a visible line along the area of the weld where it meets the base metal, or a dotted line appearance along the weld “toes”.

Cold lap is typically created by welding with too little heat or incorrect travel speed or technique. Its not uncommon to see cold lap while MIG welding, steel or aluminum, since many people run too low of voltage with too high of wire speed  to try to make a nice stack of dimes look. It’s far better to have a smooth appearance of the weld than to have a nice looking “bead” that is not properly fused.

Stick welding can create cold lap by trying to weave too wide of a weld and “over-reinforcing the weld” and not properly pausing to heat up the edge of the weld so that the filler metal and the base metal will actually fuse.  A slow moving low amp weld will pile up weld in the center, and allow the bead to spill over before it is fused to the side of the weld groove.

Though possible to create a cold lap or improperly fused weld with a TIG welder, cold lap is less likely, if a  small amount of filler is added at a time and the torch is worked side to side to make sure the filler wets in to the side.

Cold lap can occur in out of position welds such as horizontal welds where gravity works to pull the molten metal, but careful manipulation by holding the weld to the top side longer than the bottom side will keep the weld from lapping over.

Cold lap can be difficult to spot initially, but look for bulges along the edge of the weld or lines that form between the filler metal and the weld itself. Another sign of cold lap is where slap may be difficult to remove and sticks to the edge of the weld.

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Weld Defects

Wednesday, October 19th, 2011

After a brief look at the welding on the hitch of my father’s truck recently, I was struck by his apparent lack of concern over the quality of his welding. In fact it was plain he was not only happy with it, but proud of it. My evaluation, though gentle, had to be tough: It was full of defects. It was bad, very bad. If it had not also been well bolted on, I would have had to stop him from pulling anything another mile. Even though my father has been dabbling with welding for some time, his novice approach made me shrink to think of the thousands of others like him that are out there. Weld defects can cost much money, injuries and lives every year.

Experienced and novice welders alike are guilty of making welds full of defects. Defects are not always visible as “Ugly” welds. There are several classes of weld defects that the weldor should be aware of while welding. It should be pointed out that most welds contain some slight defect or another, but the slight defect or a minor amount of them do not constitute a defective weld. TIG, MIG, or Stick welding, whether welding Steel, Aluminum, or virtually any metal, will produce serious defects if not performed properly. The following are several main types of weld defects encountered regularly in nearly every weld.

1. Metal grain growth. When metal is unevenly heated or there is a large difference in the weld puddle temperature and the surrounding metal that is not visible to the naked eye. This area is known as the heat affected zone. Large “grains” of metal form, making a weak spot in the metal. Growth of the metal grain can be controlled by proper preheating and slow cooling. Particularly if it is high carbon steel improper heating and fast cooling can leave the weld hard and brittle from the grain size increase in the HAZ resulting in weld failure.

2. Blowholes and Inclusions. Sometimes due to improper electrode or torch manipulation, large gas blowholes or slag inclusions will be trapped in the metal when the weld cools too fast after the metal has been deposited. Both blowholes and inclusions introduce areas of potential failure where cracks can form under stress. Careful attention to travel speed, and rod or torch height/angle can reduce the chance of inclusions and blowholes. Proper shielding gas coverage can help in the case of MIG or TIG welding. Post flow cooling will help TIG welders from having blowholes at the end of the weld as well.

3. Porosity.  A large number of small gas pockets creates a condition of porosity. This is often a result of poor shielding from the atmosphere, either through poor slag coverage of the weld while Stick welding or improper shielding gas coverage, either through turbulence, improper gas selection, or gas contamination.

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Helping to eliminate clutter in the welding shop

Monday, October 17th, 2011

If yours is like mine, your welding shop may be cramped for space. If you have your TIG welding torch cables crossed with extension cords running to a grinder, or had to move everything out of the shop to work on the latest project, it might be a good idea to eliminate some of the clutter. Streamlining your operation from a logistical point of view will help free up space, reduce stress and improve productivity.

As mentioned, one of the most common issues faced is crossed up welding cables and extension cords. When working on a project, it so easy to do, when going back and forth between tools, and projects. You may suddenly pick a tool and find a mass of wires and hoses to deal with. One way to keep things organized is to either have multiple outlets added across your shop, and multiple air outlets plumbed around the perimeter. You might consider having multiple drop outlets that hang from the ceiling.  Even in a small shop, having multiple points close to the work prevents repeated plugging and unplugging and detangling of cords, improving productivity. This option definitely has expense involved with it, but it’s a good way to get things up and out of your way. If you are limited to only a couple of outlets that have to share duty, all is not lost. Having a couple of inexpensive “cable” organizers helps with not only the space issue, but  also keeps things tidy and safely stored. These organizers need not be more than an old steel auto wheel with the tire removed, mounted to the wall. I have found that the steel or plastic water hose hangers that you mount near your outside water faucet work quite well for hanging air hoses, and wrapping up extension cords, unrolling only the needed amount. These work particularly well for keeping TIG torch and stick torch leads  up and out of the way. For work tables, a small open hook may suffice on which to wrap and hang excess welding cable, until needed.

Keeping all your welding consumables and grinding consumables can be a challenge as well. Consider purchasing small stackable plastic sliding drawer organizers commonly found at your local “box” store to keep your MIG and TIG consumables in. The ones with the see through drawers are the best. They also make neat storage for grinding wheels and cutting disks as well as a handy place to keep your welding helmet cover protective cover lenses in. For just a few dollars, you can keep up with everything, all in one small, convenient space.

There are other inexpensive organizers as well to keep various welding supplies in a tidy condition. Keep in mind welding rod organization as well. Short sections of PVC pipe capped on both ends without glue can keep welding rods stored neat and dry. Inexpensive  welding rod storage tubes may be purchased as well which provides a tight seal against moisture ingress.

Consider putting up a small metal rack (if you indeed have the space) where you can keep odd scraps easily at hand. This will get it up off the floor. A simple  rack with  arms or slots down one or both sides with two to hold the metal is sufficient and economical to construct. Just be sure the base is properly supported so it doesn’t  bend or fall. If you can do that due to space, consider a kitchen trash can to keep odds and ends in stored vertically. While it’s not ideal, it does keep the metal from scattering across the floor, and you can spend a little time rummaging around in it when you need just the right piece to complete a job.

Although every shop is different, it’s important to get your shop organized. Organization helps reduce accidents, and improves operating efficiency. Less shop clutter will enhance the work experience, and lessen stress. Even if you aren’t the best organized  person, just little effort toward organization can yield  impressive results.

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Fumes: a hazard of welding

Friday, October 14th, 2011

Can you hold your breath while welding?

There is no doubt that we run into health risks every single day. As some people wryly joke, everything causes cancer in the state of California. Whether you accidentally eat a seed in an apple or you drive your car to work, you face a certain risk to your health. There are government agencies who sole purpose is to regulate and eliminate health hazards in both the home and work.

hold-your-breath

Hold Your Breath While Welding?

The welding industry is no different. All welders at some time or the other a will be exposed to welding fumes.  These fumes can have some nasty side effects to be sure. A common issue related to welding is “Metal Fume Fever” which results from breathing in galvanized metal fumes as it being welded. It can cause mild to severe flu like symptoms. Zinc is the primary culprit as it is the primary component of galvanized metal. The tell-tale signs of a crusty white or yellow powdery substance along the edge of the weld indicate the presence of galvanization.  Rarely does it cause anything more severe, but it can be nasty and briefly debilitating. If you suspect having metal fume fever, get medical help immediately because occasionally things can turn deadly. With that said, since it’s a necessary part of our diet, it is usually self-correcting. But other metals can be present with the Zinc, such as lead and those are the ones you need to worry about.

Hexavalent Chromium is another issue encountered with welding Stainless Steel. Breathing this may not show any immediate effects. But it is a dangerous by product of Stainless steel welding. Keep this in mind while welding anything you suspect to be stainless. Cancer, and asthma are serious side effects and may not show up until years down the road. Some people discount the potential risk, saying they have been welding stainless all their life, and nothing has happened to them. Well, not yet anyway, right? Dead people do not speak.

A related issue is the accidental or intentional use of brake cleaner, or any chloro/flouro carbon based chemical as a metal cleaner before welding. Welding on a piece of metal that was cleaned with brake cleaner releases phosgene gas, a substance used in chemical war fare. Inhaling just a drop of vaporized residue could kill you or leave you seriously sick. Usually it’s a painful death that ensues over the course of days, if not months.

There are other risks from breathing smoke and fumes from all welding processes in general. Cancer is a real risk, especially, for those who already smoke or abuse their bodies with substances. Heart attack chances can increase as well. The complete carcinogenic effects of welding may never be fully known or understood. However, breathing all welding fumes should be minimized at all times. Open areas are the best.  Having a fume hood, or fan with open windows is a good way to fend them off indoors. If you are concerned with smoke while welding, try slowing your breathing or holding your breath before you start welding. This is not fool proof by any means, but it can help minimize exposure to those who are making short welds. Yet, for some, none of these measures may be a practical solution.  The welding may have to be done down in a tank where there is not any relief or escape. For many, a respirator is the only solution.  They are not cheap however, and before purchase, a little research will need to be done on compatibility with your helmet, and headgear. However, though they can be bulky and hot, a respirator might just be the thing you really need for a lifetime of worry free welding. Minimization, if not elimination to exposure is key to enjoying a long life of safe and happy welding.

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Polarity: When should it be reversed? Part 2

Wednesday, October 12th, 2011

Using correct polarity makes the difference between a quality weld, and one that is porous and weak, or one that gets proper penetration, or one that barely gets any at all. Beyond the confusion of the terms, it is often confusing to know just when to use what polarity.

While stick (SMAW) welding, the great majority of welding rods require a positive polarity. In fact nearly all welding rods run primarily with positive, (reverse) polarity. With a few exceptions, in the case of running on thin sheet metal, you should always run with reverse polarity.  Since the term “Reverse” may be confusing, just always think “positive torch” and you should be ok. MIG welding is always going to be positive polarity. Some people confuse MIG with flux core welding.  They are not the same, though the equipment used can be nearly the same or identical. Flux core uses a wire that contains a powder flux in the center of the wire. It has its advantages in windy conditions, and offers go anywhere performance. While not necessarily better or worse than the MIG process, it does utilize straight polarity, just the opposite of MIG. There may be some wire manufacturers however that recommend positive polarity, so be sure to check the label. One thing to note, MIG and Flux Core wire do not have “optional” polarity with the same wire. If its positive, it will only run successfully on positive. Dual shield wire utilizes the best of MIG and Flux Core by using a flux wire and shielding gas. Always follow the polarity recommendation of the wire manufacturer of course, but generally dual, or outer shield wire uses reverse polarity.

TIG is the exception and is the process where it will always weld with the torch in the negative terminal (even if welding in AC mode there are reasons to keep the torch plugged into the negative side). Years ago, DC positive was used for welding aluminum, but penetration was very poor, and it required enormous diameter tungsten to weld at relatively low amps due to heat being maximized on the tungsten tip instead of the base metal.  Since aluminum welding is so easily accomplished with AC tig units with either high frequency overlay or inverter style welders such as the Everlast PowerTIG series,  DC negative torch polarity is the only one used.

Whatever the polarity, you may need to employ some sort of memory device to help you remember the polarity terms. Even if you have to write a note on your welder to help you remember the “torch” side that you will use, it will help you in get it right, and keep frustration down to a minimum.

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Polarity: When should it be reversed? Part 1

Monday, October 10th, 2011

Any one that has been around welding for a short period of time knows a little about the term “Polarity”.But quite a few new comers find the correct use of polarity a confusing issue, though it need not be.  A lot has been written on the internet about polarity, and this blog will undoubtedly add to that information. But, hopefully it’ll be easier to understand than some of the other ponderous articles written about it.

Polarity ?

Polarity ?

Polarity is simply a term to describe the whether the electrode is a cathode or anode.  Quite simply it refers to whether the electrode is emitting (negative polarity) or receiving electrons (positive polarity). These terms are related to DC welders only. Welders that output AC current have no need to refer to polarity.  So if you are welding with an old AC buzz box welder, polarity is of no consequence to you.  But if you are welding with new inverter welder, or even an old DC transformer welder, it is.  Sometimes you may see the terms DCEP or DCEN.  These refer to Direct Current, Electrode Positive, or Direct Current Electrode Negative. Polarity is always marked  on a DC welder  and will usually bear a simple negative (-) or positive (+) sign.   Whenever a polarity change is required, the electrode (sometimes referred to as a torch) should be inserted into the side with the marking that corresponds to the polarity recommended.

Simple huh?  Well, not that simple.  A lot of old texts and “old school” welders will often refer to the terms of “Straight Polarity” and “Reverse Polarity”. Straight polarity refers to negative polarity. Reverse polarity refers to positive polarity. While that may seem to make sense, if you think about electrons always flowing from negative to positive poles, it is confusing when it is applied to several different welding processes such as stick and MIG welding.

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Fabrication: OK, now I can weld, how do I build something?

Friday, October 7th, 2011

Give it a little thought, and you will figure out pretty soon that not everyone that can tighten a nut on a car assembly line can make a good mechanic. The same is true for welders. Not everyone that can lay a welding bead down is a person that can fabricate. “Huh?, What’s that?, Come again?” you say. It’s true. You will find that many welders can run a beautiful bead on a pipeline or in the welding shop but do not possess the skill set to be a good fabricator. You’ll find many good fabricators owning their own successful welding businesses with very few free minutes in a day because of projects standing in line to be completed.

If that sounds like something you’d want to do, you may be asking: What’s the difference between a welder and a fabricator? For starters, most welders don’t own their own business. A welder simply takes the TIG torch, or MIG gun, and lays a bead where he is instructed to. It may or may not involve being able to read a set of plan blue prints. A fabricator, can see the overall picture by visualizing the project, analyze the problems surrounding the project, formulate a plan to solve the problems, implement a solution, and finally put it together so that it works, correcting any problems in the final product as it you go. It may sound as if a fabricator is an engineer. Well, yes, to an extent, that is true. Depending upon the scale of the project and risks involved, it may be best to leave the overall design to a certified engineer. However, basic training, education and welding experience can teach a person a lot about design so that he /she can work as a seat of the pants engineer on non-vital projects. Quite a number of old fabrication/ welding shops are owned and operated successfully without the benefit of a staff engineer. Though, the very same old shops are wise enough to know when to employ the services of a real engineer as well. However, whether it is in industrial maintenance, ship yards, or in the field a welder will always be valued by his company, but a fabricator will be respected by fellow welders.

To become a seasoned, fabricator, one must be able to problem solver. He/she must be able to solve issues in manufacturing by looking at something, and foreseeing problems with designs or order of assembly of parts…and being able to work the issues out. A lot of problem solving ability comes from experience. But another part of it comes from logical reasoning and deduction skills. If you possess these skills, then it is of great benefit in fabricating. Also another aspect of fabricating, will involve basic mechanical ability. If you’re good at fixing things, and creatively working out solutions by improvising, then this too will be of benefit.

Of course, being able to weld and put your ideas and thoughts into action is the last stage of fabrication. Drawing out a plan, revising it, working through possible conflicts and making adjustments on the fly all are essential to fabricating, but if it cannot be manufactured correctly due to lack of skill, this is as serious of an issue as any other deficiency. There is something intimate about taking your idea, working through it and putting it into existence…It’s a pity not be able to properly complete the final stage of fabrication. If you are weak in the welding area, get more training, or seek guidance. The final fitting up stage can often teach you more about whether you are a good fabricator or not. A part that won’t fit, or a weld that you can’t get to, is inarguable evidence that you and you alone goofed. But a smooth easy joining of the parts, and the metal, is a great confidence and experience builder.

So, back to the title question, how do I become a fabricator? Well, even if certain skills are lacking, its likely they can be developed. Even college courses in reasoning and logic can help. Experience Is probably the best and most painful teacher, but it’s doubtful that very many good fabricators started out very good at all. Being observant of other people’s mistakes is probably a number one tool that you could possess that will help you become a better fabricator. If your desire is to move beyond the label of “welder”, then becoming observant, and taking notice of different ways that there are to do the same thing, and observing the varying degrees of efficiency of each way to solve a problem, will take you a long way down the road to being able to call yourself a fabricator.

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Setting up a welding shop: The basics

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011

Now that the economy has hit a low, and unemployment has risen, a lot of people or looking at alternative means of income. Granted, a lot of people will find new jobs somewhere, but others will be forced to create their own job by becoming a small business owner, and finding their “niche”. One of the “niche” areas that many people are finding wide open is the need for small welding shops in their area. Of course, many areas are served by large machine shops with $100.00 an hour rates plus materials. However, the average person may not find that a reasonable charge to repair a small household item or to have a small project fabricated, since a small project could easily run into the thousands of dollars. There is a clear need for small repair shops that can handle small jobs, without incurring the same kind of expense that a customer would find at a large machine shop. Some machine shops will actually turn down work if it doesn’t meet a minimum dollar amount. If you perceive a need in your area for a small shop that can customize small repairs, and engineer small projects for a customer, then you may be thinking about what you will need to get started.

Outside of the obvious need for a welder, you will need to see how many welding processes you can afford to have, and you must evaluate the space you have to have them. TIG welding is probably the most expensive process to have in your shop, but it is also the most lucrative, especially when it comes to welding aluminum. MIG of course seems to be the staple found in almost every welding shop. Stick, is the preferred choice for mobile repairs. A plasma cutter is popular for cutting metal, but is not a requirement for many small shops, as long as there is an Oxy/Acetylene setup available. Each process carries with it a demand for space, money, and skill. Be sure to evaluate which processes best fit your operation best in the early planning stages so that you can go after customers that have needs that you can fill with the processes you can provide.

Shop location is another consideration. In a rural setting a small welding shop may be a small pole barn or even a home garage. In more urban areas, it may be a small store front with a side roll up. Or even, the welding operation may be completely mobile with an Engine drive welder providing both welding power and electrical service to the job site. Whatever the location, or arrangement, a well equipped, convenient to access shop and operation is critical to having credibility. Keep in mind legal requirements for insurance, business license and applicable permits and general code requirements when in the planning stages as this will require a significant amount of capital that is often left out of the business budgets when it comes to writing a business plan and assigning an overhead cost to a shop location.

Well-equipped shops often bring customers back for more business. Even if you don’t have the money for the most expensive tools, used, or lower end welding and machining tools can suffice. If a customer goes into a shop and sees maybe one name brand welder, and an oxy acetylene torch, it may not convey a lot of confidence in the customer’s mind. Rather, most customers like to see a fully equipped shop with the expected pieces, like a band saw, chop saw, stationary grinder, hand held grinders, full length floor drill, jacks stands, welding table, small lathe, vises, clamps etc. Especially don’t forget the all important wrench sets, pry bars and hammer sets. As long as these work, name brand won’t be important to the customer. While it may not be possible to sink a chunk of change into all these at once, prioritize your purchases and leverage your buying power at estate sales, and discount tool places so that you can get the most shop “bling” for your money.

Overhead costs are the most manageable when they are in the planning stages. When you are planning for them, then, you are most likely to bid correctly. You may not win every bid, but having a realistic dollar figure for what it takes to operate the shop by the week or by the hour will save you a lot of heart ache and worry. Shorting yourself on bids by forgetting that monthly insurance premiums are due, and the need to upgrade equipment to finish a job won’t help you stay in business, though it may bring you a job you can’t afford to finish. This is never good and should be avoided if at all possible.

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