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Thread: Free welding rods... help?

  1. #1

    Default Free welding rods... help?

    Just had a guy give me a can of welding rods... Excalibur 7018 H4R .... From what I've researched these are for AC welding but I'm not totally sure?
    I normally TIG and MIG weld everything but I am trying to learn how to stick weld and what rod is best for the situation...etc.
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  2. #2
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    I found a link at the Lincoln site
    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...4r-detail.aspx
    that doesn't mention anything about being for AC. The full text is
    "H4R is an optional supplementary designator, as defined in AWS A5.1-91 (Specification for shielded metal arc welding electrodes). Basically, the number after the "H" tells you the hydrogen level and the "R" means it's moisture resistant.

    "H4" identifies electrodes meeting the requirements of 4ml average diffusible hydrogen content in 100g of deposited weld metal when tested in the "as-received" condition.

    "R" identifies electrodes passing the absorbed moisture test after exposure to an environment of 80F(26.7C) and 80% relative humidity for a period of not less than 9 hours.

    The H4R suffix is basically just additional information printed on the rod, and does not necessarily mean a change in an electrode previously marked E7018."

    So it looks like your gift rods are plain-old-regular 7018s. They need to be stored in a dry place, and possibly reconditioned before using them, but they are a good general purpose, easy burning rod, good to learn on.
    DaveO
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  3. #3

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    Well, thank you.
    I Will be using them just to practice for now.

    Thanks for the link too, I'm not sure how I didn't find that but I Am getting older and grumpier.....
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  4. Default

    i run them all the time, my favorite 7018. ac/dc+, don't obsess on keeping them moisture free. you're probably not doing any code work. i have them on a shelf in an open can and i keep ten lbs 3/32 and ten pounds 1/8th on the truck with no ill effects. if you learn to run 7018 and 6011 you'll be up for most stick welding work.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by fdcmiami View Post
    i run them all the time, my favorite 7018. ac/dc+, don't obsess on keeping them moisture free. you're probably not doing any code work. i have them on a shelf in an open can and i keep ten lbs 3/32 and ten pounds 1/8th on the truck with no ill effects. if you learn to run 7018 and 6011 you'll be up for most stick welding work.
    I've got a bunch of 6011 and 6013 rods. They are a few years old so not sure if they're good for that long.
    I stick welded in night school with 6010 for the root and then fill with 7018 but I only spent a week on it so I need to just practice. I really don't think I'll be doing any pipe work, more trailers, tractors and farm equipment. I have my MIG but it's not for everything.
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  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CGCINC View Post
    I've got a bunch of 6011 and 6013 rods. They are a few years old so not sure if they're good for that long.
    I stick welded in night school with 6010 for the root and then fill with 7018 but I only spent a week on it so I need to just practice. I really don't think I'll be doing any pipe work, more trailers, tractors and farm equipment. I have my MIG but it's not for everything.
    skip the 6010 because it's not going to run well on your machine anyway ( i own a 250EX) i can run it on my 350xmt or 350lx but very rarely do. 6011 is a much better general purpose rod. i would get rid of the 6013 also (my opinion only); can't guess how much repair work on 6013 welds i've done; it's very popular with the islander's and other immigrant groups down here. for trailers tractors and farm equipment you'll only need 6011 or 7018 (or maybe i stronger version like 80/90/110) but they all run pretty much the same. once you get the first one down you can move into the others no problem. stainless too.

  7. #7

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    Here's the first weld with these rods... Didn't start as easy as I remember the 7018'sin class.
    I stopped short so you can see the penatration.
    Also, should I be able to fill this deep of a joint with one pass?
    Nit pick this weld so I can speed learn! This is at 90amps/1/8" material







    Last edited by CGCINC; 05-14-2012 at 03:59 PM.
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  8. Default

    what is that? 3/32 7018? are you whipping the rod?

    if i was running 3/32 7018 i would probably do it in three passes.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGCINC View Post
    I've got a bunch of 6011 and 6013 rods. They are a few years old so not sure if they're good for that long.
    Not to hijack the thread, but since it came up: what is the shelf life of an electrode? I'm guessing as long as they stored in a closed container, not dirty/moldy/wet/rusty or whatever, they should be ok. Is there a limit? Does the chemistry of the flux change over time?
    DaveO
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by fdcmiami View Post
    what is that? 3/32 7018? are you whipping the rod?

    if i was running 3/32 7018 i would probably do it in three passes.
    It's bigger than 3/32... Measures right under 3/16" so is that 3/16 or 1/8!?!?!?
    I am doing slow small circles. I was going slow and trying to fill the gap with one pass but that didn't work.

    So you would do a root pass, then just the left side overlapping to the right and the right side overlapping to the left?
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  11. Default

    5/32 is a common size for 7018 but you're not running that at 90 amps. i run 3/16ths flat at 180/190. try running it first, then work out the details later.

  12. Default

    i don't know how long it will last. i do know that a 7018 rod in phoenix will fare better than the same rod in miami. i was welding with some 7018 (not mine)a couple of weeks ago that was several years old. i did get some porosity in the weld. also, if you tried tapping the rod like on a second strike you might break some of the flux loose. fact is i don't weld with old rod; i don't buy 50 pound cans of it unless i'm going to be needing it. but sometimes you have to use what's there.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by fdcmiami View Post
    5/32 is a common size for 7018 but you're not running that at 90 amps. i run 3/16ths flat at 180/190. try running it first, then work out the details later.
    So maybe that's why it won't start very well!! Let me try it at around 130 or so....
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  14. Default

    use the old standby. the decimal equivalent of the rod you are burning; at least as a starting point. i would not be welding that 1/8 th wall tube with 5/32, you can do it but that rod is going to be a little hot for the material (app160 amps) stick with 1/8 th or 3/32. make sure the polarity is correct.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by fdcmiami View Post
    use the old standby. the decimal equivalent of the rod you are burning; at least as a starting point. i would not be welding that 1/8 th wall tube with 5/32, you can do it but that rod is going to be a little hot for the material (app160 amps) stick with 1/8 th or 3/32. make sure the polarity is correct.
    Yeah, hole city when I cranked it up!
    I've got some 1/4" scrap laying around. Maybe I'll just save these rods for when I need them and I'll go get some 3/32 to practice on.
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by CGCINC View Post
    It's bigger than 3/32... Measures right under 3/16" so is that 3/16 or 1/8!?!?!?
    I am doing slow small circles. I was going slow and trying to fill the gap with one pass but that didn't work.
    You need to measure the rod not the flux... Measure the smaller end the one you chuck up into the holder. (hope it don't come off like I am talking down to you... )
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    Not to hijack the thread, but since it came up: what is the shelf life of an electrode? I'm guessing as long as they stored in a closed container, not dirty/moldy/wet/rusty or whatever, they should be ok. Is there a limit? Does the chemistry of the flux change over time?
    As long as you keep them dry and clean they should be good for a long time. They do tend to absorb humidity from the air. It was mentioned on another thread to use a toaster over to heat them up and dry them out. Now if you are needing to use them for a milspec weld I would get new ones. But for general purpose they should be fine.
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ski View Post
    You need to measure the rod not the flux... Measure the smaller end the one you chuck up into the holder. (hope it don't come off like I am talking down to you... )
    Ahhhh, I did not KNOW that! (says johhny carson)
    Seriously though, I thought you measured the flux and all. So it probably is 3/32's then or at the most an 1/8".
    Didn't come off that way at all. I have stick welded a handful of times so I need all the direction I can get!
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  18. #18

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    If it was running OK at 90amps, it's undoubtedly a 3/32" rod. 1/8" needs 130 or so. S/F.....Ken M
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